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Archive through August 12, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Well, I'm sure someone else who lurks here more often will post some pics; however, I did some rude measuring for you and here is what I have:
overall length about 6.5"
L hook at front end about 1.125" long
rear pulley hole center about 0.5" in from end
shallow V notches on top of bar at about 3.5" and 4" from rear
larger square cut notch on top (which engages front of mule drive when pulled up to hold tension off during installation of belt) is at about 5" to 5.375" from rear
bar is about .125" thick
By the way, the pulley which the bar fastens to should have a "finger" spring which is putting forward pressure on pulley . . . that's why the deep sqaure notch is there
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Some of the sponsors here have one lying around- lots faster than making one (though I've done that)
 

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here's one
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Notice bar is not the same width from front to back- sorry I didn't have the time to remove it and take a side view. Widest is about an 1" while rest is about .75"

(Message edited by dschmidt on August 14, 2005)
 

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Hey guys, I got a question regarding a carburator rebuild on my 1250. I ordered a rebuild kit and well as I started putting it together I ran across something that made me stop. The parts don't match, I ordered the parts from Brian and Im sure he knows what he is doing because he sent me a new float and a that is right, the gaskets are all right too, but this doesn't match what I have. What gives? are these right?

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Chuck
 

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I guess I should have posted this one.

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Is a Starter/Generator a Starter/Generator? In other words, can I swap the one on my 102 with the one on my 149 to troubleshoot?
 
Does anyone know if I can still purchase a new stamped metal deck for a model 50c?about how much should I expect to pay? and do the brackets to mount front wheels come already welded to the deck?
 
Zane:

The deck housing is: #759-3252-0716 for about $475.00. This housing has the front gauge wheel brackets. This can be ordered from any of the forum sponsors or your local CC dealer.
 
Well I got started on gettin Cubs ready for winter, it's comin ya know!
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Still gotta get this cleaned up and inside this week too.
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It's gonna be back and forth shuttle service detail for me, LOL
 

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Steve B Took my hydro pump apart today installed new spring and took gear cover off and found 2 broken gears along with this. Its not suppose to be broken out like this is it?
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If the casting is broke out like I suspect is there a fix for this or do I have a parts pump?
 
TEDD - I called Wyatt about a month ago... He's doing Fine.... Just lost His internet access at work where He did most of His posting. ;-( He can't even E-MAIL Me... And He's busy at home.... And CHARLIE.... He's NOT Busy with "HER" As Many here know He's joined His local Volunteer Fire Dept. and He's made that a full time part-time job. Busy 3-4 nights a week and most weekends.
 
First, a big THANK YOU again to those who posted thoughts and ideas regarding my 127's affinity for losing power after 10-15 min of loaded mowing time.

Now, the solution to my particular case as I promissed along with a very brief recap of the problem for everyones' reference. Recap - Brand new Kohler K301 engine with Walbro carb installed. Started with recommended defaults for carb to get things going and made minor adjustments for running. Ran great - for about 10-15 min under load (mower deck running) and would proceed to lose power and require me to shut the deck down. Upon shutting the deck down, normal running would resume.

Solution - apparently, along with the carb that was completely and totally set wrong when coming from the factory, so were the points. Standard gap should be .020 in. I opened things up, got the points to their largest gap, and JIGGLED the .020 gage around. Yes, I'd say the gap was at least two to three times what it should have been. I proceeded to adjust to the correct gap, and took her out for a test drive. Amazing how well things run when properly tuned --- ok, I admit, it could potentially be better if I had a timing light, but the .020 in gap is doing the job just fine for now.

Again...many thanks for the input from those here. Altho solutions offered were not the problem this time, I'll have ideas if/when something happens later!

-Shanen
 
Rob,

#1.....your springs on upsidedown...look at my pic again.

#2 AFAIK the gears are NLA...might have a parts unit there. Geezer (Willie DeTurk) had a solution for the broken gears at one time, might catch up with him on it)
 
Charlie- You can haul the 149 with the Sims cab and QA42A over to my place for winter storage. I promise that I will take good care of it.
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If need be I'll even come over and pick up since I need to get over to the folk's house and pick up what the kiddo left the other night when she stayed over night prior to going to a show this weekend.
 

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Hugh,
Uh-huhhhh, I'll do that just about the time you see someone wearing this suit coat! LOL
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Charlie, nice suit coat! I think you should wear that to the next Plow Day. :eek:)

Howard S., Dave Schmidt's trick of flipping the belt over has worked for me. Dave posted that on here a couple of years ago, this spring I put the belt on and it came right back off, I flip it over and it's been good all summer. (I did have to weed through 2 or 3 other belts that I had laying around as they only lasted a round or 2 of the yard before coming off and flipping them didn't help for long, however they were very old belts.)
 
Chuck,

I'd guess that the air filter is not right. Assuming the larger one is the original, that should be the size of your new one.
As for the needle and seat, what matters there is that the thread is the same diameter and pitch, and that the length from the shoulder where the seat bottoms out, to the the top of the needle, when placed in the seat, is roughly the same as the old one.
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I have a 1000 series with a bad engine. I want to replace the engine in it with one from the 129 I have for parts. The 129 engine is a 12 horse kohler almost new. It was bought as a "drop in" replacement. It has manual pto as where the 1000 has electric pto. I am wondering before I get into engine removal/replacement mode if there will be any issues some of you may know about. I am sure the new engine will bolt in but am uncertain about the clutch mechanism and the electric pto. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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