Archive through August 12, 2005

[sblunier]

Ronald C.

The replacement engine is probably not drilled and tapped for the electric PTO or the muffler shrouding lower mount. It will have the wrong sheet metal for a 1000 (switchable), the wrong exhaust elbow (switchable), wrong flywheel (switchable), wrong starter (switchable), wrong choke lever on carb (not easily switchable), wrong cam cover/dipstick (may not clear the side sheets), and probably a few others....

The big killer is the drilled/tapped holes for the PTO/air box...I suppose you could do that yourself, at your own risk.

 

[jsmartin]

hello,I'm still trying to get spark from my 62 cub,my question is can any 12volt coil be used just to see if i can get a spark at the plug?the reason i'm asking is because i tried the coil from my 62 ford falcon but still am getting no spark,the old coil was leaking that is why i was trying another,if it can be used just to see if i'm getting spark I don't know what else to look at,i don't have any kind of meter to read voltage.thanks for any help anyone can give me,jeff

 

[rcantrell]

Thanks for the response to the 129/1000 engine replacement info. I am thinking I will use the manual pto. I have access to the 129 and the lever mechansim and this sounds the best path. I plan to leave the drop in muffler/starter and carb
in place and will probably not put the side covers back on. I will not restore this one, just make it usable, clean it up nicely and enjoy it in the yard. It's really neat to ride. I also will probably replace the hood/front end pieces as the 129 is in better condition as far as looks go. I also am replacing the fenders and steering stuff as the 1000 has bent ones. Eventually I will have extra parts someone else can use...
Thanks

 

[zmcgill]

I have recently aquired a cub cadet 582 with a 16hp b&s engine. It was my brothers, and needed a clutch. After replacing the clutch and pilot bearing I started the engine and it ran for about 10-15 seconds before the pilot bearing came out of the bore. When I put it in the outer ring on th pilot bearing was split. It seemed to press in fairly easil with a few light taps, What is my problem and how do I fix it?

 

[tcbusch]

Jeff Martin,
I would recommend taking pictures of your coil setup and posting those pictures on the site so we can see what you are seeing. I think there is a bigger problem here. No spark, hot coil, sparks in the wrong places, and leaking coils. EEKS!

 

[sblunier]

Ronald,

The ISO mounted engine is going to be a problem with the maunal PTO. If the 129 is that nice, why not switch the clutch and rear end over to the 129 and not hav to do anything else. Yank the hydro lever off of the dash, install the manual tranny and clutch (fairly simple) and swap the center frame cover over from the 1000. Tha sure sounds easier than trying to soild mount the 12hp and add the PTO controls. Just make yourself a 128!!!!!

 

[mgallinaro]

RON CANTRELL

Sounds like you may be better off swaping out the gear drive rear end amd drive line out of the 1100 and installing it in the 129. It may be less work and you will have a 128 wen you are done.

 

[dreid]

Points vs. electronics

I stopped by a local mower repair shop to get a filter today, and a beat up 782 was in for a front seal to be replaced. He wouldn't part with the mower and obviously loved his tractor as much as I do mine. But with the engine in the open, I asked about where the points were since I was considering an upgrrade to electronics during a tune up this fall for snowthrowing. He said stick with points (gasp!) and that "...an engine needs to be spinning at 400 rpm before these electronic things fire, while a single turn over of the motor with points and it fires...." Huh? This sounds more like a magneto than a coil driven unit. Ever hear of this 400 rpm law before? If points were that good, wouldn't all the cars still have them?

 

[rchristensen]

Dale R.
My neighbors No Name mower with a Briggs engine was down for a couple of weeks and I finally went over and fixed it. Had to go on line with Briggs to get some information on adjustments and they stressed the fact that their would be no spark unless the battery was full charged and the engine was spinning very fast.......

 

[kdunham]

Dale-The Briggs version is a Magnetron,a self contained coil/armature that generates it's energy from magnets on the flywheel. As long as the engine spins at 350 rpm it will fire. The only wire coming off the assembly is a ground wire to shut it down. It needs absolutely no outside power source to fire the plugs. A breaker point ignition system is crude and needs alot more maintenance,relatively,than a solid state/electronic ignition. On the other hand they are generally cheaper to repair....

 

[rchristensen]

I've been busy working on mower decks lately so I thought I would share some cardboard pictures. I really like the swivel caster I put on my 50A deck so I thought I would add them to my 44A deck. Since the 44A deck is smaller it is stouter so I didn't get as carried away with the mounts.

I build the brackets out of 1/4 inch steel and use the swivel wheels I get from Harbor Freight. They are very inexpensive yet rugged, steel wheels with hard rubber and have needle bearings inside. I use a set of the non swivel bracket wheels, remove the wheels and mount them on the rear of the deck.

After I align the deck and mount the brackets I spray the bottom of the deck with the Dupli Color truck bed liner you can get at Wally world. I have used that a couple of years now and like it. You do get some wear patters where the blades throw up rocks and sand, but easily cleans up and recoat every spring.

Side view of the deck with brackets mounted. The brackets are not adjustable up or down, I could have made them adjustable but I set all my mower decks to mow at the same height. Once I have the deck straight and the blades all level I build the bracket. I have all my mower decks set so the wheels are just about 1/4 inch off the ground when it is set to the correct height.

Mower deck mounted, test run looks good. I have had mower decks with the standard front wheels solid mounted and once you try one with front swivel wheels you will never be satisfied with anything else. I have to go up and down irrigation berms and I hate to see gouges in the grass, these front swivel wheels prevent that.

I did some repair and modification on the deck hanger, will try to post it later.

 

[rchristensen]

Since I just went through my 44A mower deck I decided to check out the mower lift frame. After 30 some years of use and hitting a few trees in its life I thought it might need some work.

When I removed the lift frame from my 1450 I placed it beside another frame to do a comparison.

I could see the 1450 frame on the left had some bends that didn't belong in the frame and also both of the frame's arms that go over the rear cross bracket had a twist to the left in them. I always thought that had to be a poor design.

Removed the center lift assembly and put a straight edge on the right side. Since the right side is supposed to be straight I bent it back into shape and then used a 10 1/4 measurement to straighten the other side.

Looks like they don't always get their holes centered when they build these frames. Good thing you have some adjustment to compensate with.

I never did like the rear mount for the center lift. I cut off the two metal pieces that go around the rear bar. Cut a 1 inch wide 7 inch long 1/4 metal piece and bent a u bracket. Welded it on the top of the rear lift bracket. This centered it on the rear bracket, also raised the front of the lift assembly to improve deck leveling.

Top view, now the stress is square on the rear metal bracket, should prevent twisting, also moves it over slightly to a new area on the rear metal rod that isn't worn.

View of bracket mounted on tractor.

The front clevis before, no adjustment left in them.

The front clevis after modifying the rear lift assembly, now I have an adjustment range again.

 

[rcantrell]

Ron C on the 129/1000 engine stuff. I do indeed see all the points being made are excellent, especially after unbolting the 1000 engine. The deal with the 129 is that it is sitting in a basement 100 miles away and on top of that, I had to remove the engine from it because the rear tires will not move even with the drive shaft unhooked. I basically dismantled all the things I THOUGHT I would need. I picked up from an earlier post that the manual PTO won't work probably. That leaves me with very few reasonable choices..I don't think I could get the elctric PTO holes bored into the block and if I cannot have pto what is the point in this little exercise. As I am sure you guys know these things are difficult to work on alone. I am not sure what to do now.
Thanks

 

[kmcconaughey]

Richard, nice mower deck and subframe mods!

 

[jhillegass]

Richard, great information on reworking the mower lift frame. I have that same project on my winter "get er done" work list.

 

[dreid]

Points question, perhaps clarified.

I'm thankful for the responses, but I guess I didn't make it clear that I was thinking of my 782's 18 hp Kohler engine driving my hydro, not the Lawnboy mower engine. The mower repair guy's place was where I saw another 782, and it wasn't for sale. I was wondering about replacing the points on my two lunger Kohler with one of those kits that one of the sponsor's of this board offers. Does the coil on Cadet's need a certain rpm to fire? All the more reason to use 5W oil in the winter, huh?

 

[jrwalters]

where do i get a electric lift for a cub cadet 147??? what do you guy's know about a 147???

 

[jrwalters]

any one have any ideas on how to build a cab or a windbreacker or a canvas cab or something???? and how about a snow plow fabrication??

 

[mgonitzke]

Jeff W.-

No help on the cab, but I did make a blade for my 100 a couple years ago.

It worked pretty good, but knowing what I know now I'd just buy the real thing instead of making one. The major problem with mine is that it's not spring trip like the real ones, so every time you hit a rock you'd nearly fly off. I hit a really big one once and now one side of the subframe is about an inch farther back then the other. However if you still want to do this I'll post more pictures of it if I can find some.

 

[jrwalters]

does any one have a color coded wiring diagrahm of a cub cadet 147????