Archive through August 12, 2005

[digger]

Don B,
Have you soaked everything really well with PB Blaster? If not, you should.
Sometimes you can take a thin pry bar and seperate the bearing from the the rim just enough to wiggle the wheel back and forth to get it off.
On the jacking up thing, you can wedge a piece of 2x between the axle and frame and that will hold things sold for ya.

 

[rchristensen]

Bryan Baker
The Quietline steering assembly is about an inch longer than the 1x8, 1x9 tractors.

 

[rdehli]

Just wondering if anyone has a supplier or a way of getting reproduction gears made for the narrow frame hyd lift TIA

 

[jacuff]

Thanks for that info, Richard. I was just wondering about that very question, as it looks like I'll need to find another steering gear for my 1650. Between the tube being loose in the box, the bearings being shot, and a couple of other issues, I figure that's the best option for me.

 

[digger]

Rob D,
Yep.

 

[tturner]

Do you know if this handle is the same size in the the 149 and 1650?? Thanks Tyler

I got my dual spool parts in the mail today.

Please ignore the red arrows they were from last weeks discussion.

 

[sblunier]

Tyler,

Same, 7/16" solid round stock

 

[tcbusch]

Went to Zumbrota, MN last night and caught Sneaky Pete's Pullers. There are quite a few pullers sponsored by CC Specialties. Very interesting sport. I noticed the larger horsepower tractors had a more difficult time at take off. The front ends hopped, or what I like to call wheelie popping. From what I could tell they were pulled with a manual transmissions. I was thinking that a Hydrostatic would be better to minimize the wheelie popping. But then again, what do i know, this was my first event. I think I like the diesel tractors the most.

 

[craymond]

A good day Cubbin, got the govenor on my 72 something close to right. I'd not put the hood back on because I'm waiting for my front PTO rebuild kit but today I decided to put it on and see if the voltage regulator worked after a whole summer of getting rained on, surprisingly it does, I got a good 14v at the battery. On of my tubes must have pinched though, it'll leak down overnight. I'm tempted to put some fix flat in it and see if that'll keep it for now.
Now just gotta get in my front PTO rebuild kit and this dog is ready to hunt!
Gotta take some pics, I always forget my camera...

 

[rdehli]

Took my narrow frame hydo pump apart to see why it dosn't work the gears are trash and spring was broken too .Does anyone know how the spring gets threaded between the 4 pins that hold it in place TIA Rob

(Message edited by rdehli on August 13, 2005)

(Message edited by rdehli on August 13, 2005)

 

[hshoemaker]

Greetings all,
I'm new to the forum, so I don't know if this has been asked and answered already. I looked through the old postings and didn't see it.
Here goes:
My father-in-law gave me his old 1650 with the 44A deck on it. the problem is that I can't keep the deck belt on.
The idler pulleys look like they are cocked at slight angle. Looking at the tractor from the front, the pulleys look cocked to the right a little, so I wonder if this might be the culprit, or if they all look like that.
The belt is the right size. I've tried tightening it as tight as the idler adjustment will get it but it still jumps off.
Any suggestions would be welcome and appreciated.

 

[bbaker]

Guys thanks for your help. Looks like I am stuck with taking the one out of the 129, rebuilding it, and then putting it right back in. I assume it can easily be done it a few hours barring something major.

Does the cub dealers have the gaskets for them??

 

[rbedell]

Howard S:

Depending on which style of Mule Drive you have, there is a slight tilt to the idler pulleys:

I would check to see if the bearings in any of the pulleys are bad, either causing some binding or creating pulley wobble.

 

[rchristensen]

Howard S.
Here is a picture of my 1450 with a 44a deck on it you can use for reference. When you say deck belt are you talking about the drive belt? When I think deck belt I am thinking about the one on the deck that drives the three blades.

I would check all of your pulleys and also make sure the deck is rotating freely. You may have a bad belt. If they jump off once they will continue to jump off. I buy my belts from Cub Cadet as they last a lot longer than any other I have tried. You shouldn't have to overtighten the belt to make it stay on, just tighten to the first mark on the guide.

 

[sblunier]

Rob,

Like this....

 

[cfischer]

Howard,

I have a 1250 that I got last spring when I moved into this house. I had a belt jumping problem too, Its not the pulleys... well at least it wasn't on mine, it was a bad belt. I got a belt from Cub Cadet, it looked way too narrow compaired to the belt that was on the tractor... however, I put it on, and it hasn't come off yet. This is a common problem with other brand belts... Now does that mean you don't have a bad pulley somewhere, or a bad bearing? No, but I'd start with the belt first and then go from there. Grease everything up real good too, it makes a huge difference. Also pull the belt cover off the mower deck and vacuume out all the grass and stuff... I pulled mine off and I swear someones entire lawn was in there.

Let me know how you like your 1650... the 1250 is a great tractor, but the 1650 is got to be the ultimate!

Chuck

 

[dschmidt]

Howard, try taking the belt off and turning it over. Sometimes a "bad" belt will work if it's flipped over. Really. It's an old trick I learned on the farm.

 

[jacuff]

Speaking of deck belt adjustment, I've been trying to figure out just what I'm supposed to be looking at from the diagram on the front of the mule drive. Can somebody explain to me just what I'm supposed to be looking at to see those alignment marks? I've looked all over the mule drive, and can't figure it out.

 

[dschmidt]

John, go back to the picture that Richard C. posted of the mule drive. The flat bent bar sticking out to the left has notches on it. The belt should be tightened (if it's the correct length belt) with the bolt on the right so that front of the mule drive is somewhere between the two notches. The decal shown describes the correct position. I imagine Kraig (when he wakes up from his beauty sleep can post a closeup of what I'm trying to describe.
If the pulleys are set correctly, they will be approximately parallel and the front edges will line up with the engine pulley. Now if your belt is not the correct length, all bets are off.

(Message edited by dschmidt on August 14, 2005)

 

[jacuff]

Thanks Dave. I guess I know now why I couldn't figure it out. Mine is apparently missing that bar! Looks like something I could easily make if I had some dimensions. Can anybody help?