Archive through December 06, 2005

[rchristensen]

Some time ago I posted some suggestions on methods to find hydro leakage. I was communicating with some one on the subject and thought it might be just as easy to re-post it here and maybe others could use some of the information. Since it is larger than one post I will split it up.

Hydro Leakage Troubleshooting 101 (Part 1)

Some thoughts on troubleshooting hydro fluid leaks on Wide Frames, Quietlines, and 82 series tractors. Whenever someone mentions leakage on a Hydro the first thing that comes to mind is (that darn cork gasket is leaking), and more times than not, that is correct but before you jump on it you need to find all of the leaks. Hear are some ideas that you might want to consider.

1. First thing to check is the check valves, which can be accessed by removing the transmission cover. Clean the area good, drive the tractor and see if they leak. If this is your leak you can try cleaning them, if that doesn’t fix the leak then replace them, costly but the fix is fairly easy. Check the hydro lift lines at the same time.

2. If you still have leakage, check the gasket on the rear end plate and the hydro filter.

3. Still leaking, time to get serious, remove the rear fenders and clean up the hydro area on the tractor, get it as clean as you can.

4. Put the tractor up on jacks (be very careful as this is dangerous). Hook up the battery with a jumper cable. Run the tractor at full throttle several minutes, raise and lower the hydro lift, shift the transmission from forward to reverse, back and forth. Shut the tractor off and with a good light check for leaks.

5. If you don’t have a heavy leak you will need to look carefully, the fluid will seep out and usually run to a point and drip. Like this drip coming off the casting below a bolt.

6. If the leak is the cork gasket you need to check here, it is recessed so you have to look closely. If this is your leak you are going to have to remove the hydro to replace the cork gasket. One word of caution here, I have seen the rear hydro output shaft seal leak, run down the back of the hydro and it looked like the cork gasket was leaking.

 

[rchristensen]

Hydro Leakage Troubleshooting 101 (Part 2)

7. Even if the cork gasket is leaking and you are going to remove the hydro to replace it, you need to check all the other seals so you know how far into the hydro you will need to go. There are four seals you need to check, one on the front charge pump, one on the back of the hydro and two on the sides of the hydro.

8. When I am checking a seal I will clean all around it with a paper towel, then place a clean paper towel under the seal and run the tractor through the checks I mentioned previously. Since the hydro fluid is hard to see the paper will absorb it and it is easier to see on the paper. Here is the right side seal, it is on the stub shaft of the swash plate and can probably be changed when the hydro is out of the tractor without disassembling the hydro transmission. You can just see the dark spot on the paper towel where the hydro fluid has dripped.

9. Here is the rear output shaft seal and it can probably be replaced without removing the hydro from the tractor. If this one leaks it likes to run down the back of the hydro and looks like the cork gasket is leaking. Also the flat plate on the rear cover behind the hydro has a gasket and I believe Steve B. found one leaking from this gasket and it ran down the hydro and looked like a cork gasket leakage. You can see the two casting on the sides where the two seals for the swash plate shafts are located. You need to clean under the castings and then check for seepage after running the tractor.

10. This is the left side seal on the trunion shaft, if it is leaking you will have to remove the hydro and it will have to be dissembled to replace it. This one is hard to see leaking and the clean paper towel wiped under it after running will tell you more than you can see.

11. Here is one I had on a 782 and I haven’t heard anyone else mention it, but it was a plug about 3 inches across on the rear end just below the hydro unit that was seeping. I cleaned it up and used JB weld to seal it up and it has held since 2003.

Hopefully someone can use some of this information. I can’t stress enough to find all of the leaks before you remove the hydro or you will replace something, put it back in the tractor and find you will need to do it all over again. Usually you will find the leakage while running or just after stopping, but I have had leaks that only show up after sitting over night. It takes a lot of patience, clean and check, clean and check, until you have found all of the leaks.

 

[digger]

Richard C.
You could just send them these links.

http://cubfaq.com/hydroleak1.html
http://cubfaq.com/hydroleak2.html

 

[dschmidt]

Richard, thanks much for the good info. and pics.
Charlie, thanks for making it easy to access and save.
I have a prime candidate for the process.

 

[digger]

Jeff S,
Richard C. is our resident Cat.0 designer/builder.

(Message edited by cproctor on December 06, 2005)

 

[pkordik]

You guys sure know how to make a guy feel bad. Here I am, all impressed that I have found the time to put on my snow blade, wheel weights and tire chains. Putting on my snow blade is about as complex as I get when it comes to working on my Cub. Meanwhile you guys are crafting your own 3pt. hitches in your spare time. Sure makes a guy feel bad. Well, I hope to have more time as my kids grow up and begin going to grade school etc. By then, I hope to have enough time and experience to work on my 1250 and Cubs I entend to collect in the future.

 

[pkordik]

Darn, I forgot to ask my question. Does anyone have any plans or ideas for an inexpensive weight for the rear of my 1250 to help with traction. I am thinking about a plywood box with stand-off bolts that I can fill with concrete and then bolt on to the rear.

 

[brader]

I'm starting to assemble my K301 and I have a quick question. Do I have the spring installed correctly on my camshaft? I can't tell from the pictures in the manual.
Thanks

 

[digger]

Brent R.
Yes you have it right.

 

[jbliler]

Well, it was a great day here. Picked up the check for the house today. Could afford a lot of cubs about now that we are homeless. Leaving Idaho on Saturday.
Am hoping that there are a few cubs left in Missouri next year.

 

[brader]

Thanks Charlie. Next question... I'm installing the governor gear. The manual talks about a "thrust washer". Is this a washer that goes on the shaft right before the gear? If so, I don't have one. Anyone know the size of that washer? My engine had a small bolt (pictured below) in the hole where the manual shows a "stop pin". I'm guessing this supposed to be some sort of pin about 2" long with threads on one end. Any idea where I can get one or if I can use a 2" bolt instead? I'm sure the rest of this rebuild will go smooth... I hope.

Here is a pic of the governor stuff (upside down)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul K., here'a a rear weight that David Kirk designed. I have a higher resolution version of David's drawing that I can email to anyone that is interested, just let me know.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jerry B., have a safe trip!!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul K., here's one made out of 2x4s, I forget who made this one.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul K., here's a metal version of that "slip in" wood one. This one was designed by John Proeschel, it's more of a "carry all" but it could be adapted as a weight holder. I believe that it's a swivel ball from an office chair on the end of it to allow it to slide in easier.

 

[bmcmeen]

Paul K -

Also, the later rear weight bracket can be easily adapted to fit pre-x82 Cub Cadets and can hold up to five 42# suitcase weights.

Kraig -

Got a pic of mine handy?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bryan, sure I do but Paul asked for inexpensive weight so I didn't bother posting them but here goes.

 

[tbordeleau]

What is the production stack-up at the rubber engine mounts on a quietline tractor? I have the MOOG parts suggested in the FAQ motor-mount repair, but it occured to me: Does the original stack-up use (2) rubbers at each location, (1) above and (1) below the rail?


And based on the latest pics posted, I now HAVE TO build a "carry all" pallet system-looks too useful to be without!

 

[jquinn]

All right, Will a 54" wide frame Cub Cadet snow plow (off my 1250) fit on my 2072 super garden tractor? I've got a Haban 54 too but don't have the rear frame mounting brackets for it.

With snow in the forecast I'm hoping the cub plow will fit, if not I will have to bring the QL 1250 out of retirement for the winter.}

 

[kmcconaughey]

John, the 2072 has a longer wheelbase I don't think the subframe from the 1250 will fit onto the 2072. but the best way to find out is to try it. It should be easy to slip that blade subframe under the 2072. Are these the brackets you're looking for?

Ted, I believe it's one above and one below the motor mount frame.