Archive through August 01, 2011

[mpatterson]

Anymore pictures of your progress Glen? I read back and found the few pictures you posted - great job so far! Can't wait to see the finished product. What does the front axle look like on it, you going to have it be taller or just keep it stock height from the ground?

The more I look at your design....only thing I would change if "I" was doing it......put two lights on each side of the fender! Now THAT would light up a driveway on a snowy night! I always liked the double round lights under square fenders. Grandpa's Allis 185 had them, I always thought they were cool. He also had double flashers on the back. That thing lit up like a Christmas tree at night going down the road with a load of hay behind it.

 

[dwilkinson]

I have a QA42A snowthrower acquired some time ago but so far has never been used by me and is now being restored. The augar shaft is ruined on end by a seized bearing and needs to be repaired/replaced. Is the augar shaft one piece or is it stub shafts welded into the end if the augar tube? Does anyone have a good solution for repairing this shaft end? The augar is too long to fit in my lathe.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Doug, the auger should have replaceable ends, I know all 3 of my QA42 models do. They should be held in place by shear bolts. As an example, here's what the chain drive end looks like:

 

[dwilkinson]

Kraig. Thanks for the info but the shafts are not held in place by anything thru the tube. It looks like a weldment with the stub welded on the inside of a circular plate which is then welded slightly recessed to the end of the tube. The drive end has been fixed previously by welding a sprocket directly to the shaft as there is no bolts or pins on that end ether. Too bad otherwise a fix would be so easy. The complete model # is QA42A U1111

 

[kmcconaughey]

Doug, it sounds like someone welded them in, that or the auger design was changed at some point. The Parts Lookup shows replaceable ends for the QA42A. And the QA42A sprocket end P/N is listed as the same P/N on the QA42 sprocket end that I posted the photo of. If you can't fix the bad end you may have to find a good condition used auger. I lucked out some years back and snapped one up to have on hand just in case. No it's not for sale.

 

[wshytle]

Shame on you Kraig. That's like dangling a carrot in front of the mules nose.

 

[kmcconaughey]

I was merely pointing out that it's good to plan ahead and have spare parts on hand when dealing with these old tractors.

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG - If you can find good used parts for snow blowers you should buy them. I had to replace the "H" shaped alum. casting the jackshaft that's driven by the PTO shaft runs in on my QA-36, and the two needle bearings & zerks. Just the casting cost more than I paid for the WHOLE snow blower when I bought it about 10 yrs earlier. I've also replaced the auger bearings, painted it, and made a new scraper edge instead of buying one. Then about that time I retired it and started pushing snow with a big tractor.

Kinda nice thinking about being COLD pushing snow when the heat index for the next two days will be 100 degrees.

 

[thoffman]

Dennis,
I'm with you on the heat b------t. Snow sounds refreshing right about now. To keep it OT.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, that's exactly why I have 3 QA42 snowthrowers. One is a complete spare snowthrower the other is for spare parts or it could be made whole if I scavenge parts off of the Dexter rotary broom. I also have spare mower decks, spare deck subframes, spare miscellaneous spare parts and parts tractors. Spare parts are good!

Tom, I could sure go for a dip in that snow bank right about now.

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG - I did borrow the center spindle off the deck from the 70 last summer, it's a bit newer than the one for the 72, the 72 has tapered roller bearings, the deck for the 70 has the waterpump bearings, it was a replacement deck Dad bought in the early 1970's. I priced the replacement spindle shaft on the parts look-up after I spun the threads off replacing the blades, so I used what I had available. That shaft was around $100 if I remember right.

 

[wshytle]

Kraig-

I was just kidding. We all know you always mean well and are indespensible (sp).

I've been out trying to figure out the problem I'm having with the 108/128. I have cleaned most every electrical connection and did find some rust in areas but nothing that was too bad. It still wants to turn very slow (at first) or not at all while starting. The battery reads 12.5 volts with it off and 13.4ish when running so it is charging. I'm thinking it has to be something with the ACR. Can they work half-azz? Once the engine gets to turning it spins nicely and always starts. I did the s/g test and the ammeter pegged to the right and the rpms remained pretty much steady.

Any ideas are very welcome.

 

[dfrisk]

WAYNE - It is possible for the ACR to act up. The ACR on the K361 cam I installed in my K321 did that a lot at first. Hasn't been so bad the last year or so.

It acted just like you explained, it would start fine one time, then stall just before TDC the next time, I'd spin it over the himp and it would spin enough to start.

 

[wshytle]

Thanks Dennis-

This is one of my main workers as a puller. It seems the more I do the further backwards I go. I don't care to pull the engine, drain the oil, and remove the cam cover with all the other things I have going on. I guess I need to put it on the to do list though. I just got the pump finished to put back in the 1250 then get it together as another of my workers. I don't understand how the ACR can work half way sometimes. It seems it would be an all or nothing type of deal.

Thanks again!

 

[ljones]

Does anyone make a cat 0 three point lift kit for my 122, I saw extreme motor works has one for the 147, has anyone put one of those on a early n/f?

 

[gcoleman]

Mike, and all, here's progress yet again! im so close yet so far away...stupid spark issue, this things fought me the whole way so far. I want to eventually put the 18x8.50 V61's on the front to lift it up a little and give it a manlier stance but i dont want to make it a hi-crop or anything because thatll mess my deck heights up etc. I was originally going to put dual lights in the fenders but i realized when i sat on it, id be lighting up my calves more than anything so i only went with one each (doesnt look as good as two i agree, but, i figured id go practical with it.) Ignore the cheap cardboard grill, im making the stainless one soon, hopefully my uncle can track down his plasma cutter in time. It will eventually be reminiscent of an international 1466 Industrial (I like the yellow

)
I was also going to make a raised filler neck for the gas tank since the hood wont open this time (butterfly hood is no more) and just add a few more big tractor details here and there, including proper decals (a set for a 140 that im gonna edit to say 149) etc. I wanna get it runnin somethin fierce so hopefully ill get spark and get it goin soon.

See a resemblance?

 

[dfrisk]

LUCAS - Anything that fits the back of a 147 should fit the back of a 122. Only the front was changed between a NF & WF, about around the steering wheel forward.

 

[dfrisk]

GLEN - ACTUALLY, a 1466 would have only had a single headlight in each fender..... so YOU WIN

 

[jharvey]

Glen
Don't overlook your points even tho they're new. I had a new set so corroded they couldn't work without cleaning first.

 

[ljones]

Glen c, your 1466 is the bomb that is one SHARP tractor it is an incredible display of your talent.

Dennis, thanks for the info, I thought I read on extremes website that some modifications would need to be made to the lift bar, but that is no big deal. Thanks a lot for the info.