• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through August 01, 2017

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The 66 series is one line we didnt run when I was growing up, couldn't find one that had the coolant filter installed when we were shopping for a different tractor. Had several 806's, 856's, 1256, then jumped to the 1086, 1586 then Magnums. Still have one 856 and the 1586, pretty much in retirement and of course the 656 grandpa bought new. Those 66's sure looked nice though.

Been working on my 1450 this week. It always seeped fuel out of the carb, just needed the bottom of the bowl flattened out and a new bottom washer to get that fixed. Welded up the trunion slot on the hydro too and now all the small issues are fixed on this tractor. Might strip it down and paint it next summer.
 
Family farm went from 560D to 806D then 1206, 1466, 1486 (Still use). 806 was only around a short time, 1206 was supposed to be a 1256, but grandpa traded for a very late serial nunber one on the lot at Leamans because another farmer HAD TO HAVE the new one...
 
I am pulling my hydro off following Gerry's instructions and am stuck trying to get the trans tube assembly off. The longer nut at the bottom is really tight and I haven't tried the thinner nut at the top. Which nut does what?
 
Here is photo, I tried to upload in edit mode, I guess that won't work?
316534.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 316534.jpg
    316534.jpg
    113.1 KB · Views: 125
  • 316534.jpg
    316534.jpg
    113.1 KB · Views: 124
George- The bottom larger nut is the one you want to remove. It'll spin on the steel hydro line as it's a compression nut. The top thinner but is for the adapter that connects the steel line to the hydro. They're tight, but once you break it loose it'll spin off easily. Try to use an actual good quality open end wrench on it, not an adjustable wrench. You'll get it!
 
Nick/Ethan, thanks for the feedback. I have good tools and those marks aren't from me, I'm being careful. I gave it a squirt of PB. Thanks, I'll post again later this week.
 
Mechanical front disc.
My front clutch has been slipping so I have removed it. I am going to get the pressure plate and pulley clutch machined. I have two related questions.
If the clutch disc is not broken does it have to be replaced. It looks good to me. If it is OK should I run some sand paper over it?
On the pressure springs. I have two of them with the tips bent at 90 degrees to stay in clutch pulley that are bowed and one with straight tips that is not bowed (it is flat) Is bowed OK or are they bad?
Any comments are greatly appreciated
Earl L
 
Earl when my front clutch crapped out I replace with all new...why chance with new and old.my front clutch has one spring(125)and the spring had a bend to it.despite my advise a reused it and it's working fine I'd say it's ok unless it's bent and cracked or bent to and extremely out of shape
 
Earl also I got a rebuild kit on fleabay...get something from cc specialties my kit works but was a pain to deal with
 
Back
Top