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Archive through October 21, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Rick M . I farm for a living, it is just my opinion like I said. I didnt mean to ruffle any feathers over the ags on the front.
 
I am gonna post this in both spots. So poof me if you must. For parking at the Plow Day site, DO NOT park in the tenants yard. We will be parking in the bean field. Vendors will park to the south of the barn. Someone will be there to guide you. Thanks.
 
Brad - no feathers ruffled here...
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I posted a picture last evening of my 100 with ags on the front. I know I'm part of the blame for getting that issue rolling. Well, I like the tri-ribs also. Here's my 70 with the tri-ribs. They are the 3.50 x 8 size.
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before I head out for the day -- here is another shot of that mustang sally look

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You see the strangest things on e-bay... This one was for a garden vac...note the purple- panted garden gnome....
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CUB 108-SNOW BLADE QUESTION: Is anyone familiar with the white IH snowblade that fits on front of a 72-108? I need to know if the round feet pads on bottom front of blade are still available. I will check local dealer also. Jeff F.
 
Ok I am gonna ask a silly question. I have to get my tilling done before it snows. tommorow is sunday and my 1250 cub cadet is barely running. seems really rich. The nearest store to get a service manual is 80 miles away and it is Sunday tommorow. (I would love to spend it playing on my cubby) could someone give me technical specs for the carb screws? it takes me a long time to start it and then it has no power. mid to low revs even at high speed setting and spits drops of fuel from the carb at the air intake. Please help. should i bend the float down a bit? what should i set the screws at.
 
Howard V,
Please note, this is NOT the perfect way to do things but, if your in a hurry!

Shut the fuel off to the carb, if the shutoff will not work. Pinch the line closed.
Without taking the carb off the tractor, and the tractor setting level, remove the fuel bowl and see if the float is level when you raise it up and LITTLE finger pressure where it stops.
If not, take a litle screw driver and adjust the float tab to make it level at it's highest point.
Reinstall bowl, turn gas back on and see what happens.
Assuming that you have a Carter/kohler carb. Turn both screws all the way in. then turn both out 1 1/2 turns, that will get it started and you should adjust both accordingly at 3/4 to full throttle.
 
I noticed a post about cadet in NJ, I have a couple attachments I want to transport from NJ back to TN or Indiana, I put a post in the hauling section. If any body can do it, I will help with gas or trade some parts in exchange.

Dave Hull
765-464-4267
 
Howard V,
Roland's way will work best, but Charlie's/Digger's way will work fine, as long as you don't expect anything to change by adjusting the low speed screw when running 3/4 to full throttle. As the name implies, it's for low speed. Adjust it at idle. Specs will be in the manual Roland referenced. If your fuel line is old dried rubber, I think I'd plug the end or use something to hold it above the level of the fuel in the tank to avoid cracking it and getting some garbage into the carb. Be careful you don't turn the screws in too tightly when you're running them in to start, or you'll booger up (technical term not defined in the Kohler manual) the ends. I believe the bottoming-out torque specs are half a bazillionth of an inch/pound on an overcast 70 degree day. Compensate for weather differences.
Your air filter's clean, and the choke is adjusted properly, right?
 
Got the 109 running just before dark yesterday after swapping in the 12 horse. Well, after setting in the engine and having the coil hit the frame, then lifting it back out and changing the shrouding so the coil was at the right height for the 109/newly incarnated 129 as opposed to the height for the 122 (?? Tom??) the engine came from. Modified the driveshaft by removing and disposing of the worn drive coupling from the 109 engine, drilling a new hole in the correct place in the 109 driveshaft, and using a flex coupler from a QL shaft. Used the carb from the 10 horse to avoid having to rebuild the one that came with the engine, which poured gas out as soon as I filled the tank. The engine wouldn't run without the choke being partially closed, so I'll probably rebuild the throttle shaft to seal it up from all the air sucking past it, or rebuild the original carb. It was lean enough that the inlet end of the muffler was glowing reddish orange. Didn't run it very long.
More fun for this afternoon....
 
Thanks folks for all your help. air filter was removed so that couldn't be it, am downloading the manual right now. thanks for the info on the 1 1/2 turns. and the low speed screw. I am gonna remove them completely first as in my experiance with other small engines that is where the "gunk" tends to hang up. funny it was working good half way through the garden then went wacky. I hope i didn't suck something off the bottom of the tank. anyway thanks for all your help. i am gonna take it apart and rebuild and paint it this winter. i just purchased it this summer and it has been busy ever since. luckily i don't have a snowblower attachment yet or it wouldn't get a rest at all. Nice day to y'all.

(Message edited by Hvangool on October 23, 2005)
 
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