Archive through November 24, 2008

[rrschmitt]

Matt S,

That's the engine kill button which keeps the points from closing when pushed. In the early days of Cubbies, electric start was optional so if you had a manual recoil start model, you used the button to shut off the engine. Kohler used the same points cover on either. I believe by the time the 1X2/3 series came out the button was gone and electric start was standard as trying to manually start a 12 hp Kohler could be a bit tough.

 

[mstetar]

how does one go about using the parts look up (up above), when i click on it it just asks weather i would like to save or open the file, however i do not have a program that will open it!

 

[mstetar]

never mind i figured it out, i was using Opra browser, works fine with IE7!

 

[sstanton]

I got to adjusting my V/R this afternoon, I cleaned all the solder points and resoldered, took apart the points contacts and cleaned them as well, dont worry I didnt use steel wool! I did have some corrosion in there, but it wasnt tooo bad. Re-adjusted the points to factory, air gaps and all that good stuff. Still waiting to get the new starter solenoid, and waiting for the brushes too. I had no idea shipping from Cleveland to NY could take so long. If all goes well I will have an operational electric system! I had no idea something so simple would be such a pain in the rear!! After Dec. 7th I will start to restore the mower deck to new condition and will post pics even though it's just a deck! Why after Dec. 7th you ask? Thats when deer season ends and I will need something to do with all my spare time!

 

[jdreaves]

Here are some photos of the engine hoist I have been working on. It was originally the cheap Chinese orange color, with flaking and bubbling paint, and some rust. The top third of the hydraulic ram arm was encrusted with black rust.

Here is my new (old-from pawn shop)engine hoist.

Hope you notice the IH (man on a tractor logo)?

Closeup of IH logo. I taped it off and hand painted it on both sides of hydraulic ram.

 

[jdreaves]

More photos of the IH engine hoist.

I hand painted the tonnage figures. If I'd just made a stencil, it would have looked more 'factory like'. I reconditioned the casters, too. Had to take them apart, clean, paint, and grease. The chrome silver plating is actually chrome paint - baked under a halogen lamp for several hours. By the way, it was a JOB polishing all that black rust off the hydraulic piston. It took hours, until I got out the Makita orbital sander and 1000 grit polishing cloth. Hours of failed hand labor were surpassed in about 20 minutes, with much better results.

I used hitch pins instead of the cheap looking (and rusty) ring pins that came with this lift. I am working on a pair of jack stands I picked up in the deal, too. I will post photos of them when I'm finished. All hardware was replaced with SAE grade 8 and grade 5 stuff from the local COOP. They sell the stuff there by the pound, instead of by the piece. Saved $$.

I guess I got the IH bug. Paint is alklyd enamel from Ace Hardware. I will go with automotive paint next time as the ace paint takes 8 hours to dry in 70 degree weather.

John-David Reaves
ROLL TIDE

 

[jfluck]

I am the new owner of #17553 manuf. in Oct. of 1961 ( If I am reading the charts correctly). I believe the engine is the stock engine, but I cannot find any info that links my kohler serial #529724 to my tractor number. If it is the stock engine I have an almost complete tractor to restore. Any Help?

 

[ccarney]

Jim Fluck -

By my (unofficial) reckoning you have the original engine, or at least serial nameplate, in yer tractor. IH made no attempt to match the engines to the chassis serial numbers, but general trends can be inferred. Look to see your spec number. It should be 28542e.

Sometimes engines are shortblocked, and though the original blower housing sheetmetal and nameplate remain, the rest of the engine may be replaced, sometimes indicated by a black block or in the case of a '61 Original a top-mounted dipstick..

 

[mstetar]

speaking of motors i ordered rings for my K-241 a few days back, they came in today and to my surprise they were way to small, so after about 2 hours of us tyring to figure out what happened, we decided that i have a K-301, bored 10 thousandths over... long story short, my new rings will be in Tuesday!

 

[mstetar]

wow even now i am still confused about this my flywheel cover tag indicates that it is a K-301, however the ring set i ordered was for a 14hp bored 10 thousandths over, now can a k-301 be bored that far over, or does that have to be a 14hp block as well?
--
Matthew Stetar

 

[dbailey]

I've been working on getting this muffler off,and plan to put the right one back on,Ive already got the muffler,But I,m thinking I need the part coming Out of the block, Is It An exhaust elbow that I'm looking for. I saw that the sponsor's have the part.But I want to make sure that's the one I need thanks.

 

[jfluck]

thanks for the quick response craig. The block on the engine also appears to be original and it does not look like the plate has been tampered with. I teach metalshop in a rural PA district and I am using the project with my students. We have the engine running and are about to check out the rest of the drivetrain. I'm sure I'll have more questions as we progress. Thanks again.

 

[dfrisk]

MATTHEW - Measure Your piston with something fairly accurate. K301 = 12 HP = 3-3/8" bore
K321 = 14 HP = 3-1/2" bore. If Your piston is marked "010" It's .010" oversize.
And yes, Some K301 blocks can be bored that much O/S, and then some can't but they don't normally last long enough to wear out a set of rings so Your's must be one that can.

 

[snicklas]

David,

Yes there is an exhaust elbow that you will need to put the standard muffler that goes across the front of the engine under the heat shield and exits from the right side of the tractor above the starter generator.
You need this elbow:

With this muffler:

Also make sure to get the locking ring that goes on the threads on the elbow and tightens down agains the block to hold the elbow in place. This may already be on what is there now. This is the "correct" setup for your tractor.

Scott

 

[snicklas]

David,

Try to refresh the page a until you see them, I have had that problem from time to time....

 

[mstetar]

dennis i used a caliper to measure it, it is 3 1/2 inch bore which according to my kohler guy is the standard 14hp bore but the rings that came out of this formally running motor were still a little bigger, so thanks, but we'll see when the rings come in!

 

[mstetar]

and now for my 4th post of the day! I pulled out my trani to day to find red paint toward the front of the transmission and yellow toward the rear, it there a reason for this or what?

, but at any rate do you think some primer and paint would work on here, or do i have to sand blast it all the way to bare metal???

 

[tteague]

Matt, looks like you been usin a hammer! thumbs and hammers and anger don't mix very well...LOL

 

[mstetar]

no the hammer wasnt in use just lying arround. lol!

 

[bjohnson]

Do you guys recommend chains on lug or turf tires for best use in snow? Thanks!