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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Mike M. try this out. A little further up is a image of a magnifing glass and says 'Search'
Click on that and...
Search for = spring assist
Keyword = chng to AND
Match = chng to Whole Words
Other stuff leave alone
Slide to bottom of box and hit Search.
Checkout results. Plenty of pix to help you.
 
Allen thanks I have it figured out now. I think!
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Ryan D Wilke (Rwilke)

slow down a little. i know how to use an ohm meter, and i have one, but what is the difference between primary and secondary windings?
ohm meter to positive and negative terminals, and ohm meter to high voltage terminal and ground?
coil has not been tested .
 
Richard Palmer (Rpalmer)

yes, i could just fix the exhaust leak, but i thought i had a problem with the timing . I did not expect to see the timing light skip like that.

I do not see the exhaust leak as an easy fix, it is probably the original exhaust so i will probably be better off replacing, rather then fixing. I would rather concentrate on the most likely cause of the stalling.
but, if you guys really think the leak could be causing this, i will fix that next.
i believe i have a video of the leak, let me repost it.
 
I feel the need -- the need to post. I know, I did this not too long ago, but Frank, Ryan has a point, so here it is, again, just for you:
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I saved this to My Pictures some time ago, not sure from where, but I'd have to guess that Roland Bedell had something to do with it.
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A temporary (and "temporary" can be for a long time in Dog Years) fix for the typical exhaust leak is to stuff some muffler patch in there. Hmmm (talking to self, now) I think I'm going to try furnace cement. I don't think there's one here that doesn't leak where the clamp comes together. I think it's "inherent to the design".
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And I guess while I can still edit I'll mention that the mounted coils that I've seen have the + on the right as you're looking at them. The - goes to the points (and that's where the condensor hooks, too).
And that's all I have to say about that. F. Gump
 
here is the exhaust leak.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UriS-6rMozw

any suggestions on an easy fix? i really think if i touch anything, it is going to break. anyone know of a cement like repair compound, that works?
i have the cutting torches and an air wrench, so removal would be easy. but at $119-$150 for just a new muffler, i would rather just repair it, if possible.
think just a new clamp might work?
I could heat that joint with the torch, then put a new clamp on. maybe the joint will get soft enough for the clamp to close the leak.
 
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine) (Fcurrier) -

thanks for the coil test pic. i will see if i can do that now. we are having hurricane strength rain right now. tractor is in a shed, but the rain is coming down sideways.
 
I was editing while Frank was posting.
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Sideways rain is always the worst! Go to the rest of my post - we're on the same page.
 
just tested the coil.

+ and tower
9,000

ground to +, - and tower
no reading.

+ to -

zero. meaning, i have a dial type ohm meter. needle starts at 500,000 and goes to zero.
i have less then 4 ohms.

does this mean i have a defective coil?

I am going to test the old coil to compare results. i suppose it could be me, or the meter.
 
Frank, working with various meters over the years on various electrical equipment...I'd say your coil is OK. Reading a small resistance gets awkward at these low values.
 
old coil gives the same zero reading on the + and - terminals.
it was stalling on the old coil too, i suppose they could both be bad.

anyway to test the meter? does anything else have a known resistance of 4 - 8 ohms?
 
Frank
One of your headlights should be 3-4 ohms if you have one.
 
no head lights. i do have a 12v aux light for the truck. could try that.
 
12v aux light reads zero too. guess that means the meter and the coil, is ok.

exhaust leak is next, i guess. not tonight, but it is next.
 
Paint time...
My desire not to shovel snow by hand this winter has surpassed my desire to be lazy...

I had painted these earlier this year, but the paint got all over everything in the shop, so I erected some tarps hanging on wire cables to shield the important stuff from overspray.
181140.jpg

181141.jpg

The frame needed to be hit with the D/A and putty to even out some imperfections, and the other stuff was either unpainted or needed touching up....
181142.jpg

Here is the frame with TSC Valspar metal primer on it.

181143.jpg

181144.jpg

Tomorrow, the yellow will go on this frame, the rear, engine, and as many other parts as I can get to.
 
This is for all the fellas looking to make a cab for their Cub Cadet... CLICK HERE. Of course you may have to modify some details to make it fit your particular tractor model.

Just noticed this.... Right above the article is the word CONTENTS and 76 in a box. This must be in reference to page 76 in the magazine. Scroll up or down on your computer and different pages/articles appear. Pretty interesting reading and I see that in 1980 cars didn't get much better mileage than today's vehicles. Happy reading.
 
Charlie P. I just tried your site and got the word... FORBIDDEN ERROR 403
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Frank S., I guess you know to properly check an analog meter, you short the test leads together and rotate the 'zero ohms' wheel till the needle is on zero. (thats NOT the little thing on the meter face!)
 

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