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Archive through November 05, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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mshippee

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Nov 1, 2016
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Melissa Shippee
Hi everyone! I've been lurking here for a while, while I try to fix up my IH Cub 104. Thank you so much for being here to share your knowledge! This forum has helped me a great deal while trying to troubleshoot this tractor. I also have two old manuals and three manuals for the engine itself (Kohler 241a), but you all know how limited those are in their information and schematics for someone who doesn't know much about the topic.

I'm nearing the end of getting it ready to mow or snow-throw, having cleaned the carburetor several times and fixed a fuel supply problem. I'm at the point where I need to tune the carburetor and possibly adjust the governor, and need to purchase or borrow a tachometer to do that (the engine sounds like it's going way too fast at max speed).

However, while working on this issue yesterday I noticed smoke coming out from somewhere near the carburetor, and not from the exhaust pipe. I took a video of it: https://youtu.be/P7M_0K9RI3U. I'm afraid of what this might mean, like a crack in some engine gasket or something.

Full disclosure--I'm completely new to the art of engine and equipment repair, and have been learning on this tractor alone. Can anyone tell me what this might mean, or the next step to figuring this problem out?
 
Smoke is likely engine blow by from the crankcase vent behind the carb.
 
Austin E , An option I considered for auger flight repair was from lundellplastics.com. They make UHMW "Wear Shoes" for combine grain augers. They claim 2 to 1 wear verses steel.
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.....I have not yet followed thru with the Wear Shoe update on my QA42A.
 

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Melissa:
Regarding the tach. I recently purchased Neiko RPM gun. I have nothing to test the accuracy but it seems to work good. You have to attach a reflective tape (I put it on the clutch flywheel pulley) and point the gun at it. The cost is about $25.
Earl L
 
Melissa S.
Here's what I would do.
1. Remove the head and de-carbon it and the valves.
2. take the crank case breather cover off from the side of the engine under the carb and either clean or replace the breather filter.
3. Start using MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil), one cap full with every tank of gas.

It might tank 4 or 5 tanks for things to clear up.
If it doesn't, then your due for some exhaust and or intake valve work.

You could take a peek at the exhaust valve when you have the head off to see if it's burnt by rotating the engine so the valve comes up to see.

Also!
Welcome to the forum!
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Did ih make 2 different blade subframes for a model 100
 
There were 2 for sure. A sleigh style and regular bolt on. I can take a picture tomorrow of what's on my 100. Sadly my old phone died as did any pics I had. You can also search for pics.
 
Melissa,

Welcome to forum. If you don't want to disassemble the upper part of the engine the following was posted here by another member back in 2010 - D. Frisk

Another way to de-carbon an engine is to inject WATER into the engine. I did that years ago to my K241. The deposits were really hard, I'd run a L-O-T of leaded gas thru it. Normally 20-25 oz. of water is enough for a K-series Kohler.

With a spray mist bottle, engine running at a medium fast idle speed, 1500-1800 rpm, but with the air filter cover & air filter removed, choke totally open, but with the engine not too warm (subjective I know) spray a fine stream of water into the carb which will cause the engine to stumble and sputter a bit with each spray. The water really cools the carbon deposits and makes them flake off the surfaces on the combustion chamber.

If you let the engine get too warm you can cause thermal stress/shock to the valves, the exh. valve excpecially since it runs so hot.

The K241 I did this too was really loaded up. I was doing a tune-up and pulled the plug. I installed the same plug back in, injected the water and and pulled the plug afterwards, it wasn't totally clean but I'd say 2/3rds to 3/4ths of the deposits were gone. Lot quicker & cheaper than brushing/scraping them off, and the risk of getting hard deposits stuck between the piston & cylinder and scratching the bore is MUCH less.

I've also used Top Engine Cleaner sold by GM. I suspect Sea Foam is the same stuff. I used a peice of 1/4" dia clear vinyl hose and a football or basketball inflating needle clamped to the end of the hose and held it into the throat of the carb and let the vacuum suck the cleaner in. You can vary the position of the end of the inflation needle to control the amount of the solvent going into the engine. Those products are flammable, the engine will run on them so the sputtering/stumbling wouldn't be as bad unless to let way too much in.

Good idea to change the spark plug & engine oil afterwards too.

I have done this and it does work, but only if the valve seating is good.

Jim
 
Earl Ford
I believe you will find the "Sleigh Style" front blade subframe is for an Original and not a 100. Info and a parts breakdown for the different blades and other equipment, can be found in the CPE-2 EQUIPMENT FOR CUB CADET TRACTORS PARTS CATALOG
 
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Here's the best I can do. Need to figure new phone out for better pics. This is mounted on my 100, square I guess you could say, I had a sleigh style before but never mountef, I think Kraig has more pics in his stash.
 

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This is a subframe I have hanging around. Lower QA pins are gone and a threaded rod is in their place.
 

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Melissa-

All suggestions made have been good but if it were me I pull the engine and "go through it". Everything is so much easier with the engine on the bench. That way you can rest assured everything has been done to the engine short of a total overhaul once it's back in the tractor.

Also, once you remove the head you need to check it for any warping due to heat over the years. This is simple and done with a piece of plate glass (for a very flat surface) and sandpaper. Starting with maybe 100 grit and using a finer grit as you go. Just move the head (after a carbon cleaning) back and forth over the sandpaper placed on the glass and you will immediately see some high spots. Continue until it is flat again and you're ready to go. It's nice to have some compressed air close by to periodically blow the sandpaper clean.

You can also time the engine while on the bench using the static timing method. Matt G., a member here has a website with a good how to section on static timing.

I'm just suggesting this because if I have issues with an engine I've found (for me) that it's just about as easy to put it on the bench. That way I can easily check other things at the same time. The engine is heavy so be careful and have several friends help. I'm guessing it weighs 90 lbs plus but the K241 has a flat oil pan and will sit anywhere nicely.

Good luck and welcome.

.
 
I have the Project Original running today. (Finally) Now the clutch is sticking again. So... do I have to pull it and take it apart or is there a way to get it free without taking it apart? Again... TIA
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Melissa - Smoke coming out your breather should mean you got a blown headgasket on the inside. Sorta of a easy fix, make sure you torque to specs and follow the bolt pattern.
 
Got Snow??
I guess the smoker is ready.
What with fluid and weights there is close to 185 lbs on each rear corner...
Then add my fat butt, makes 570 lbs total.
The little guy should get with the program!!
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Hello everyone
I'm having trouble with a1650 cub! For the life of me I cannot set the timing! I looked it up,Charlie sent me a link but for some reason I can't make it work. I rotate the fly wheel clockwise until the S mark but I can't get the contact to open at this point. I can't get them to open until a half turn on the fly wheel. I don't know if I'm having a brain fart or what. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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