Jeff -
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By Kmcgiver (Kmcgiver) on Sunday, February 13, 2000 - 10:13 pm:
Jay and James
There are many ways to rebuild a clutch. The one shown in old IH manuals shows removing the entire assy. On tractors that do not have the removable center cover this is not fun because the rear roll pin is never easy to remove. No pin in this drive shaft should just slide in. They all should have to be driven in. One method is to compress the main spring in a vise by beating the drive shaft through the jaws of the vice or using a shop press. I have goten to where I do them in the tractor. 1. remove engine (easier if front cast iron grill is removed). No need to remove ref #8 at this point. 2. Depress clutch 3. Drive the front two roll pins out (they dont slide out and you better have a good roll pin punch.) 4. You can slide Ref's 7,6,5, and 4 off at this point. 5. Release clutch carefully. 6. Carefully remove nut #12. Ref #10 is under great pressure. When at the end of the threads use palm pressure to hold back the spring pressure against the throw out lever. Release the spring pressure. 7 Remove the piviot pin attaching ref #10 to the tractor. 8 Remove ref 10 , 3 and 2. There is a washer behind spring number 2. 9. all you are left with is the shaft. Inspect for wear where bearing rides. If worn replace the drive shaft. Good luck on that rear roll pin (you will need it.) If shaft is ok put the washer, big spring, and NEW throw out bearing back on. hang throw out lever on drive shaft and install NEW piviot pin. Using the lead in your butt push the throw out lever back till you line it up with ref 11 then install ref #12. Be sure to thread it on a good ways before you put pressure on it. Another note you may have to tie up the clutch pedal to keep the rod from falling back easy. Adjust nut so that there is about 1/8" between the throw out lever and NEW bearing. Depress and lock clutch pedal. Slide your NEW teasing spring on. To resurface the pressure plates a R/A grinder works nice. You dont want them too slick. (will slip in third.) re-install 5, 6, and 7, using NEW roll pins with a chamfer that you already ground on them to help them in the holes. Oil on them is not a bad idea either. They should not slide in. Now remove ref #8 from the engine. use it as a tool to line up the NEW friction disc. Leave it there. Now slide in engine and intall the four bolts for ref #8. I think you can figure out the rest from here. Two last notes: 1. I have only 155 lbs. of lead in my butt and it is enough to compress the spring. Make sure ref # 12 is not so tight that the lever constantly rides against the NEW bearing. Oh yeah anti rattle spings ref # 17 are optional. Bet I beat Harry on this post. <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>