Archive through May 04, 2007

[jpatchett]

Myron,

Brake shoe, yes right, it is not touching the "disc,IPTO Brake" plate when the attachments are engaged. I fully understand where heat is coming form (friction), but my difficulty is isolating the source. The outer race of the PTO bearing show signs of excessive heat, which seems more associated with the PTO clutch and not the brake shoe. I am open to more thoughts.

Thanks
Jim

 

[jmorrow]

I have a 1967 model 124. The throwout bearing fell apart on me, so I ordered another. My question is, what all must I disassemble to replace the old one? This tractor was recently aquired and I am not aquaited with working on it yet.

 

[kweaver]

Jeff -
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Kmcgiver (Kmcgiver) on Sunday, February 13, 2000 - 10:13 pm:
Jay and James
There are many ways to rebuild a clutch. The one shown in old IH manuals shows removing the entire assy. On tractors that do not have the removable center cover this is not fun because the rear roll pin is never easy to remove. No pin in this drive shaft should just slide in. They all should have to be driven in. One method is to compress the main spring in a vise by beating the drive shaft through the jaws of the vice or using a shop press. I have goten to where I do them in the tractor. 1. remove engine (easier if front cast iron grill is removed). No need to remove ref #8 at this point. 2. Depress clutch 3. Drive the front two roll pins out (they dont slide out and you better have a good roll pin punch.) 4. You can slide Ref's 7,6,5, and 4 off at this point. 5. Release clutch carefully. 6. Carefully remove nut #12. Ref #10 is under great pressure. When at the end of the threads use palm pressure to hold back the spring pressure against the throw out lever. Release the spring pressure. 7 Remove the piviot pin attaching ref #10 to the tractor. 8 Remove ref 10 , 3 and 2. There is a washer behind spring number 2. 9. all you are left with is the shaft. Inspect for wear where bearing rides. If worn replace the drive shaft. Good luck on that rear roll pin (you will need it.) If shaft is ok put the washer, big spring, and NEW throw out bearing back on. hang throw out lever on drive shaft and install NEW piviot pin. Using the lead in your butt push the throw out lever back till you line it up with ref 11 then install ref #12. Be sure to thread it on a good ways before you put pressure on it. Another note you may have to tie up the clutch pedal to keep the rod from falling back easy. Adjust nut so that there is about 1/8" between the throw out lever and NEW bearing. Depress and lock clutch pedal. Slide your NEW teasing spring on. To resurface the pressure plates a R/A grinder works nice. You dont want them too slick. (will slip in third.) re-install 5, 6, and 7, using NEW roll pins with a chamfer that you already ground on them to help them in the holes. Oil on them is not a bad idea either. They should not slide in. Now remove ref #8 from the engine. use it as a tool to line up the NEW friction disc. Leave it there. Now slide in engine and intall the four bolts for ref #8. I think you can figure out the rest from here. Two last notes: 1. I have only 155 lbs. of lead in my butt and it is enough to compress the spring. Make sure ref # 12 is not so tight that the lever constantly rides against the NEW bearing. Oh yeah anti rattle spings ref # 17 are optional. Bet I beat Harry on this post. <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[dsauve]

Why is it so hard for people to be polite and follow the rules? The founders of this site didn't write them up for their health. I know everyone has a bad day now and then but...

We all were SUPPOSED to read the rules and follow them.

 

[tdrudis]

Caution to all plow owners. I learned the hard way there is a right and wrong way to use a clevis pin on a lift rod assembly. I just got my new plow and ended up driving on top of it. The pin was inserted from front to back (where arrow is). On my set up when the plow is lifted or you hit a bump the pin gets pushed out of the lift arm by the plow frame and the lift rod drops. you could possibly flip your tractor. (picture is for demonstration purposes. This is a found photo)

 

[kweaver]

Jeff - I don't have anything on just the throwout bearing. I can't find a scan of the manual either so you know what part the numbers refer to. You'll have to wing it

 

[kweaver]

Tim - I did that once with my home made tractor and blade. Feels funny sitting 3 feet in the air doesn't it ... or did you stand your blade straight up?

Dean - Rules? What rules? We don't need no stinkin rules! ... oh wait, I'm NOT new.

 

[tdrudis]

Ken I was just cruising along looking to my left and all of a sudden the nose goes flying up. The blade ended up flush with the ground. I guess it's a good way to change a tire.

 

[dsauve]

Sounds like it was alot easier than a jack.

 

[bcook]

So is KENtuckyKEN a Moderator now?

I picked up a parts 102 Monday night, and I'm heading out in the morning to get a parts 1450, and some 44A decks. Some of the 1450's parts are going onto a 1650 I'm working on for the Sportsmans Club we shot at during the winter...and some are going on the shelves.......

So much for downsizing the CC stash

 

[kweaver]

Bill hide behind a computer.
I'm sick an tired of your mouth. If you have a problem EMAIL ME !

 

[digger]

<font color="ff0000">OK, this deal has gone way beyond a friendly dicussion!
</font><font color="0000ff">Enough already, the guidelines/rules are here for a reason.
I'll agree that there needs to be some modifications made here and there, it's just getting time to get it done.</font>
<font color="ff0000">And yes, I'll say it again.
This is supposed to a fun hobby, nothing more, nothing less, There are sections for OFF TOPIC stuff, use'um!
Bryan and I both are called hardnosed and a few other choice words. But this site will not turn into a free for all.</font>

And I'll add a side note for all the registry people that email people behind the scenes.
GROW THE HELL UP!
Remember where you came from and who made you!
It was IHCUBCADET.COM!

 

[tdrudis]

Anyone have these books? I am wondering if there are any diagrmas etc. Or are they just on the history of cubs?

 

[jmorrow]

Ken, thanks for the help with the clutch, much appreciated!

 

[jmorrow]

I do have the manual so im hoping it all corresponds, thanks again

 

[digger]

Tim D.
They give a history of Cubs, no diagrams.
2 things chief.

1. This book is twice the book those are.
Besides that, Hank Will is a Sponsor here.

2. Smack that enter key everytime you post a pic, please and thank you.

 

[dsauve]

Was there ever a generator for the quiet lines? With my work it would be nice to have one, the tractor seems to go to most jobs for luggin' stuff and such. I figure I could build one but it wouldn't be genuine IHC.

 

[kweaver]

 

[digger]

Dean S.
Here's one specific to the QL.

 

[bcook]

Ask a simple question, and get a smart reply...........fine then!

KK- You have mail!