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Archive through May 04, 2007
- Thread starter bmcmeen
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
The last time I was asked what one of my cubs was worth I said
and I was told that I had a
if I spent that much on an old garden tractor.
My reply to that was that even if I was to spend twice that amount I would still have a far better garden tractor than 90% of the stuff out on the market today.
My reply to that was that even if I was to spend twice that amount I would still have a far better garden tractor than 90% of the stuff out on the market today.
I'm re-assembling the PTO for my 106. I got to the point where I have to adjust the throwout levers, using the gauge that came with the clutch kit. It seems that I will have to really crank down on the screws to get the gauge to touch the pulley. Like REALLY crank the screws, and seriously warp the spring. Is that right? I seem to recall from reading here that there are a couple different gauges out there. Do I have the right one? I'm attaching a picture of the clutch parts and gauge:
http://www.sacoriver.net/~cotecj/CubPTO.jpg
Thanks!
http://www.sacoriver.net/~cotecj/CubPTO.jpg
Thanks!
Christopher C: Yep, you have the correct gauge for the bent end springs shown. Remember, it's a spring so it is intended do deflect when the screws are tightened. With those two teeth in the middle astride the lever, near the thrust button, and touching the tri-spring, the outer ends should touch the rim of the pulley....This must be done for each of the three levers. Sometimes adjustments must be made to have the gauge touching at all three levers. When you get the jam nuts on, you will know you are correct as there will be only about two threads exposed.
Myron B
Myron B
Christopher C.
Here ya go.
It does mash down quite a bit, but not seeing how much yours is pushed down, it's hard to say if it's to much or not.
Here ya go.
It does mash down quite a bit, but not seeing how much yours is pushed down, it's hard to say if it's to much or not.
I forgot the page link, Grrrrr
http://cubfaq.com/mechanical_pto.html
http://cubfaq.com/mechanical_pto.html
<font color="ff0000"><font size="+1">HELP</font></font>
The 149 a got last fall had bad front PTO bearing. I replaced the bearing, adjusted the PTO springs, and reassembled. I used the 149 with a thrower over the winter, no apparent problems. I was plowing the garden and other work in the yard and could tell by the smell that the PTO was getting HOT (PTO disengaged the entire time). Mowing lawn last night I had a lot of smoke. Removed PTO and pulley from engine and the front crank seal was sucked back into the engine. Here is the problem, the outer race of the PTO bearing was "blued" like gun metal in spots, grease burned up, bearing going south. As far as I know the PTO has not been slipping. With no attachments the engine load changes when engaging (less load) and disengaging (more load, friction?). The PTO on my 127 does not do that. My 149 has the OSHA brake on it and it’s hard to determine adjustment on the lever arm linkage. The blueing of the bearing is not good, and has trashed the new bearing. I don't think the crank seal and PTO problem are related, but I don’t know. The 127 PTO has never been this troublesome.
Jim
The 149 a got last fall had bad front PTO bearing. I replaced the bearing, adjusted the PTO springs, and reassembled. I used the 149 with a thrower over the winter, no apparent problems. I was plowing the garden and other work in the yard and could tell by the smell that the PTO was getting HOT (PTO disengaged the entire time). Mowing lawn last night I had a lot of smoke. Removed PTO and pulley from engine and the front crank seal was sucked back into the engine. Here is the problem, the outer race of the PTO bearing was "blued" like gun metal in spots, grease burned up, bearing going south. As far as I know the PTO has not been slipping. With no attachments the engine load changes when engaging (less load) and disengaging (more load, friction?). The PTO on my 127 does not do that. My 149 has the OSHA brake on it and it’s hard to determine adjustment on the lever arm linkage. The blueing of the bearing is not good, and has trashed the new bearing. I don't think the crank seal and PTO problem are related, but I don’t know. The 127 PTO has never been this troublesome.
Jim
Jim P.
What's the brake material look like on the brake shoe assembly?
Is it still there?
Just a thought.
What's the brake material look like on the brake shoe assembly?
Is it still there?
Just a thought.
Jim P, Charlie...Sounds like it was adjusted to be partially disengaged when in use. With the brake dragging, that creates friction, friction creates excess heat, the excess heat then cooks the bearings.
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
Myron,
I would agree, but with the thrower or mower attached on it has not been slipping. You mention dragging-- the PTO has not be slipping on the friction plate, to the best of my knowledge. The disseng and engage seems to function correctly. If the attachments are not slipping, that should indicate proper PTO function. Its hard to know if the function is correct given I am not too familiar with this particular PTO.
Jim
I would agree, but with the thrower or mower attached on it has not been slipping. You mention dragging-- the PTO has not be slipping on the friction plate, to the best of my knowledge. The disseng and engage seems to function correctly. If the attachments are not slipping, that should indicate proper PTO function. Its hard to know if the function is correct given I am not too familiar with this particular PTO.
Jim
glippert
Well-known member
Myron (and anyone else) - Your post at 3:48 today about the tiller mount, etc, mentions the option of putting the lower bracket and/or drawbar on the tiller gearbox bracket. The drawbar was mounted on my gearbox bracket when I bought it, but I found it interfered with the tiller bracket, limiting the depth I could till. (The lower brackets hit the drawbar when the tiller was lowered) Do you know if that is an intentional effect? I removed the drawbar so I could till deeper. It sure seems sturdy enough that I shouldn't have to worry about too much strain causing any equipment damage. (Of course, I've been wrong a time or two...) So far it just works like a champion.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Greg L.-
You're supposed to remove the drawbar when using the tiller, I think the owner's manual says that.
You're supposed to remove the drawbar when using the tiller, I think the owner's manual says that.
Jim P: I am referring to the brake shoe dragging. If you adjust it too close it could drag creating the friction....Try riding the brakes on your car for a while and then touch the wheel/hub...You won't do that again...Since we can't see it, we are attempting to analyze and determine the potential causes...Something isn't right and what else is gonna create the kind of heat that would cook the bearing if it isn't the brake plate/disc dragging and creating enormous heat from friction..??
Now, another potential cause is that you could have gotten a defective bearing which is also a distinct possibility....This would also explain your problem...You will have to analyze all the parts and make that determination.
Myron B
Now, another potential cause is that you could have gotten a defective bearing which is also a distinct possibility....This would also explain your problem...You will have to analyze all the parts and make that determination.
Myron B
glippert
Well-known member
Thanks, Matt. I was rather embarrased when I discovered that, after using it an entire tilling season last year!
No wonder my garden was not overly productive. The good news is I continue to learn new things about the tractor and attachments all the time.
I seem to have missed a follow up reply post to my 3:26pm post.
The bottom line is this (and this is MY VIEW) if anyone comes to this site solely for the purpose of pricing a cub then they need to leave quick.
This site is not for the fly by night "paint it and sell it" for a profit operator. This site and it's knowledge base via the forum members is for the repair and restoration of <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadets by the owners / users / collectors of <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadets and NOT for the "car lot" operators.
We don't lend our help and assistance and research time for someone to make a profit from our help without them being an active participant.
Our help is free. Don't come here looking to profit from our generosity.
Anyone having a problem with me , my comments , my graphics is more than welcome to hit my email link.
The bottom line is this (and this is MY VIEW) if anyone comes to this site solely for the purpose of pricing a cub then they need to leave quick.
This site is not for the fly by night "paint it and sell it" for a profit operator. This site and it's knowledge base via the forum members is for the repair and restoration of <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadets by the owners / users / collectors of <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadets and NOT for the "car lot" operators.
We don't lend our help and assistance and research time for someone to make a profit from our help without them being an active participant.
Our help is free. Don't come here looking to profit from our generosity.
Anyone having a problem with me , my comments , my graphics is more than welcome to hit my email link.
