• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through July 30, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Glen A.
Welcome to the forum!

Parts are easy, just click the Buttons at the top of every page. Our sponsors have or can get anything you might want or need.
beerchug.gif
 
Charlie and Clint McCall,

Thanks. The only problem with it is the hole. I'm trying to save as many parts as I can. And with the NLA list getting longer I believe it is the best thing to do. Although ... a buck and a quarter to re-sleeve a block is pretty hard to swallow. But in the end they only made so many. And when they are gone, they will be gone.
 
Wayne S. you can use them but I would double them up by inserting a smaller roll pin inside the larger one.
 
A guy called this afternoon and asked if I wanted an off topic tractor for parts.
I asked how much, he said 75 bucks gets it all.
Since he was only 7 miles away, I decided to go it.
It is/was a Bolens HT20 at one time.
167602.jpg

Now the kicker is!
After I loaded the SCRAP PILE UP, (Thinking I should not have said yes, until I had seen what I was buying), he said oh yea, you have to take the loader with the deal, it's just in my way.
Well that made things just a little bit better.
biggrin.gif

167603.jpg
 
Tim...I can't really take credit for the idea this is just my rendition of it. Ken McHone mentioned he has done this and uses it with his x82.
Here's some more pics of it.
167607.jpg


Who says us guys can't accessorize...have a flashlight to go with it
clappy.gif


167608.jpg
 
Now Charlie...don't you feel the least bit dirty for rapin the poor guy like that !?!?
Well, guess I'd do it too
lol.gif

As for the yard sale find.......
censored.gif
hehehe
 
Charlie:
Aside from the bonus (loader), is there actually anything usable in that pile?? (Didn't know you were a closet Bolens guy, I don't remember you on the Bolens Yayhooo group I sued to monitor...)
whistling.gif
 
Richard Palmer

I agree with you on the OEM stuff being the best, and only getting harder to find. I have a K321 that needs to be bored, and sleeved... I just do not have the money to do it, however I will not trash the block. I will have it done one day when funds get a little better than what they are now. I would like any info you have regarding websites, links, etc on re-boring sleeve a kohler block. I don't have a lathe big enough to swing, nor a mill so it's out of my skills, also I don't imagine a average person could hold tolerance near what the factory, or specialty shops doing this can, I assume just by my past experience with machine work they would need to bore the block to get it close then grind it to final tolerance, I'm sure they have already worked out the sleeve fit as well on before, and after pressing in. I'm just guessing but you would need to also finish the sleeve once pressed into the block for final bore size.

Would really be nice to press in a ceramic sleeve in a Kohler block, then have your piston top ceramic coated, that would take care of any future problems. Just my ramblings, I'm going back with a B&S Vanguard 18 HP in my 1450, the tractor is in decent shape it's no show tractor as it is right now, however I plan to use this tractor for mowing, and small garden plowing.. I want to keep the K321 to have a spare to rebuild to new or better than new in the future when I can pick up another 1450 to restore.
 
Glenn, welcome to the forum!

As far as the economics of doing all this, if you have to pay someone else to do it at standard shop rates, it's probably cheaper to find another Cub that's been already reconditioned, or one that's been gently, but regularly used and well-maintained. From the sound of things, you probably have enough there to fix it up without breaking the bank too badly on parts, if you have the time, tools, skills, and gumption to do the work.

Try to do an honest evaluation of the tractor's condition as if you were going to buy it. Since the tractor's been in the family, you have firsthand knowledge of it's history, but don't let sentiment cloud your judgment too much. A $100 102 I got last year with the intention of using parts to rebuild an old 102 that's been in the family since I was a kid made me reevaluate my strategy. The "parts" tractor was a better restoration candidate than the one I intended to restore.

Here's a few things to look for:

Engine: Don't expect to hook up a new battery, and pour some fresh oil in the crankcase and fresh fuel in the gas tank and expect it to light right off. The engine may well be "stuck" if the spark plug was left out or a valve was open when the tractor was parked. At minimum, you'll probably have to clean and rebuild the carburetor and clean the ignition points. If there was fuel in it when it was parked, you will have to deal with that smelly sticky goo that the fuel will have turned into, it will need to be removed from not only the carburetor, but the fuel tank as well, along with any rust that may be inside the tank. Not terribly expensive if you DIY, but pretty messy.

Clutch/Transmission: If you have memories of the transmission popping out of gear regularly, that could be a show stopper, as new gears are expensive or NLA, or it could be a bent shift fork or weak detent spring, which is fixable. If you remember the transmission as being okay, then worst case for a new driveshaft, spring, disk, and throwout bearing is a couple hundred bucks. You might not need everything, if the spring and driveshaft are good, you might only need a disk, which is less than $50. Look around the flea markets and other places for a decent used clutch assembly.

Steering: The steering boxes all get sloppy as hell eventually, but they can be disassembled, cleaned up, and adjusted. There is a pretty good FAQ on the website on how to do it. The left hand spindle can be a problem part, the hole tends to wallow out. Check the tie rod ends, if they are loose replace them or upgrade them to Heim joints, as I have done with my nearly completed 102 rebuild. Pull the wheels to check the condition of the wheel bearings. They're not terribly expensive, but the little things can add up after a while.

Electrical: Check for cracked insulation, broken and frayed wires and repair any unsafe wires. Rodents in a barn can do a number on electrical systems. Clean your ground connection, hook up a good battery and crank away. Troubleshoot as necessary, check for spark and starter operation.

Tires: TSC prices are about $30 each for the front, $60 to $70 for the back.

Seat: Figure $70 for a decent seat if you can't live with the one that's on there.

Hope this helps

Bruce
 
Clint McCall,
I have a K301 block that I won't trash either. I'm toying with the idea of getting it sleeved as a K241. Back when I was in tech school Ford was experimenting with ceramic valves and maybe pistons. It's been along time ago. But what an idea!

You might enjoy Brian Millers site. Google that name. I think his is the first to pop up. I don't have a shop or garage. But I have a machine shop very close and others not far away and at least one that is an email away. Take care.
 
Kendell - Charlie's probably not a closet Bolens guy. He's just got so dang much space in his new digs, he'll take anything just to fill it up. (I stopped in to see him last week and the photos he's posted don't do justice to the place. It's an amazing spread!)
jawdrop.gif
yikes.gif
drool.gif


Thanks again for the tour, Charlie!
thumbsup_old.gif
 
Gle4nn Ashmore,
I have all the tools, a pretty well equipped machine shop and I am reasonably mechanically minded.

Fix it! New battery $30.00. Redoing the clutch maybe $200.00.
 
Gle4nn; Fix it up and you will be glad you did. It won't cost that much, And sure will be a usable tractor for you. Here is a 124 I got out of a barn where it rested for years and is one of the best tractors i own. Luther
167611.jpg
 
Glenn,
With the machine shop you can probably also make your own driveshaft and true up your clutch plates as well. I'm jealous!!
 
Thanks Porter - I think that's a good idea. This is a first for me but I'm sure all sorts of "dowels" have been used.

Charlie P - Is that a heavy duty slotted roll pin in the pic? That's another first. I've never seen a slotted pin in this application. I guess I need to get out more often.

Thanks again to all involved.
 
Digger,
Did you ever get a response back from the company "O RINGS WEST" about the flat o-ring on the narrow frame hydro lift unit?
I'm still searching for the correct replacement for my lift, but so far I'm "SOL" if you know what I mean!!!
 
This part is on the front of the K301 on my 128.
What is it--I don't see it in the manual.
167625.jpg
 
Back
Top