Archive through July 30, 2009

[prtombaugh]

I have a 70 and a 100 each with rear pto's. I just picked up a speed reducer/direction changer that someone told me was for a Cub. Should bolt onto a Cadet too? Who made them? Did anyone make any rear implements that could make use of a correct rear pto speed? Are these considered a desireable option? I didn't see any at the RPRU. I've only been into the CC's for less than a year. Thanks. This forum has been a real help!!

 

[bbrigham]

Wow Charlie...that is a good deal! I've been needing some more and I guess I'll have to take advantage of that while it's there.

Black with gold flake, hhmmm, I like it. Just not the '60's vintage chips

 

[bbrigham]

After seeing Ken M's idea for the portable drill I figured that is real good idea. Not always power around where I need it. I do have a DeWalt 18v drill with the quick charged but I also had this POS B&D 12v that was useless with the batteries so I finally have a use for it. Works a lot better being Cub Cadet powered than B&D powered.

 

[dnewell]

Brendan , Could you show how you fixed that drill like that ?? I guess i missed the original post. Thanks !! Darrell

 

[bbrigham]

I took the battery apart and drilled a hole in the case for the cord to go through. The cord is what's left of a 100 footer my wife shortened for me while mowing

I soldered the wires together inside the case so it still plugs in like the battery would. I'd take it apart for a pic but my batteries for my camera are in the charger now.

 

[aaytay]

Tom T-
CONGRATS! You've found one of the most rare Cub attachments... <font size="-2">(Not to mention having TWO Cubs with a PTO!)</font>

Brendan-
Thanks for posting the picture of your drill. I have a 12V drill here that I was planning on doing the same thing to, but I was going to put a 12V "Cig Lighter" plug on it.

I like the aligator-clips better....NICE TOUCH!

 

[dfrisk]

PAUL - Tom's correct. Back in the "Good Old Day's" of pulling there were weight classes of 5000#, 7000#, 9000$ and 12,000#. The exact weights varied a bit over time, and some places also had a 15,000# class. Also there were "Stock", "Modified" and "Open" classes, tractors that looked like tractors, tractors with car, airplane, turbine, or industrial engines, and the Open class was "Run what Ya' Brung!"

An evening of pulling started about NOON, weigh-in and registration, and some tractors would run in three or four classes. So they weighed the tractor in for the 5000# class, then threw all the weights on it for each heavier class. Then for the first class the extra weights had to all come off, and then by the end of the night all go back on. A typical pulling team was composed of the driver & tuner and about SIX big strong brutes that could throw 150# wheel weights around easily. Those bars welded onto the wheel & rim were to be able to slide 3-4 IH wheel weights in quickly without messing with hardware. Lot of pulling wheels I've seen those bars were much longer, 8-10 weights were common. That's also the reason IH suitcase weights are worth $1/pound even today because an easier way to add ballast has NEVER been made.

With today's pulling technology, a serious puller builds a tractor for each class so He/She doesn't have to take 7000# of extra iron to every pull.

Those pullers who ran green tractors also did the same thing with their rear wheels, but jd rear weights have a round hole in the center so just a huge pipe over the end of the axle was all they needed. When the green tractors ran out of power and stopped the weights would still be spnning for a short time. Back in those days You would see many IH's, lots of JD,s and a couple Minny's, and J I Case, maybe an Oliver, and a Ford or two.

First few big tractor pulls I ever went to they had men standing along the track every ten feet on both side of the track jumping on the weight sled. To weight the sled up for bigger tractors they'd park tractors on the weight sled. Took a BIG pull-back tractor in those days even when all the men got off the sled! Can Yo imagine what insurance would cost NOW for a pull conducted like that!?!?!?

 

[wshytle]

OK Guys, one more question about the 3 pin clutch driver. Can you replace the pins with standard 3/8"x 1 1/2" coiled roll pins? The ones I'm dealing with have some wear so....

 

[rpalmer]

I just changed out the left hand spindle. Can the one I removed be repaired????

 

[bbrigham]

Art...With this drill it was a BIG improvement. I can't stop the chuck with my hand now, didn't take much before. I'll be using it a lot now.

 

[tteague]

ok brendon, ho did u maheur lil cub cadet drill thingy. thats pretty cool!

oh< by the way,rebuilt my k321 in my 147 bout 6 months ago. Had a machine shop do it. And its knockin... I think its the balance gears...OH MAN!!

 

[digger]

Wayne S.
You can replace them. But it's not exactly a standard roll pin. It's a bit thicker.

Richard P.
It can if you have a good drill press or a super steady hand to drill it out to the next larger size.

 

[digger]

BTW,
The Parts Lookup Button link is fixed.

Seems MTD decided that didn't like to pay for the usage that there site was getting and dumped their parts lookup service. Along with over 127 Cub Cadet parts going NLA this year!

 

[cmccall]

Richard Palmer

I'm not sure by the picture how bad the diameter is worn, or scarred if bad or needing back to OEM you could turn it down, and sleeve it if it's not hardened which I'm not sure in this case. On the wollard hole you can dill it out, and bush it with little problem I would make a press fit bushing you can use your material of choice steel or bronze, I would not use stainless as it will gall.

If you take it to a machine shop it might cost as much or more to repair than buy a new one unless you have a friend, you may be able to perform the work yourself ? not sure what kids of tools/machinery you have.

 

[kide]

Charlie:
Got a list of the new NLA's?? <font size="-2"> (might want to do some shopping...heh heh heh) </font>

 

[digger]

You just gotta love garage sales!
$10.00 will buy just about anything these days.

Kraig & I were talking about the fonts on some of the online sellers for the air cleaner decals a while back and how OFF they were.
I think I found the right one's now though.
image{aircleanerdecal}

 

[digger]

Kendell I.
I did that back in February when the list really wasn't a list yet.

You really have to feel a little sorry for people that have machines 3 to 5 years old that can't get parts anymore.

Our GOOD Cubs, I can understand the NLA thing to a point, but the newer stuff? It's really sad.

 

[kide]

It used to be a minimum of 7 years after ceasing manufacturing (I thought), but these days........

Ummm - I reloaded three times, squinted, turned my head sideways, even tried IE, still can't see that decal..

 

[gashmore]

Good evening gentlemen. I am in need of some advice. In 1968 my father bought a 104 which ran faithfully for 20 years. By the time the clutch finally gave up IH was not selling CCs and we could not find parts so the 104 was relegated to the barn and we bought one of those red "CCs". I quickly discovered the difference between a mower and a tractor.

I now own the property and have a big Gravely to do the mowing but need something to move stuff around the property. The lawn tractors they sell today don't hold a candle to that old 104 so I am considering reviving it. After 20 years in the barn the tires are rotted, the battery is corroded and the clutch is still burned out but there is little rust, there is still oil in the crank case and the old Kohler still turns over.

Are we talking a lot of money to get this old girl back in action? (like over $1K?) Where do you find parts? I have all the tools, a pretty well equipped machine shop and I am reasonably mechanically minded.

 

[digger]

Kendall,
Prolly cause I messed it up!

Kraig & I were talking about the fonts on some of the online sellers for the air cleaner decals a while back and how OFF they were.
I think I found the right one's now though.