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Archive through July 13, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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dkamp

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2004
Messages
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Dave Kamp
Hey Everybody!

Spent some more quality-time on the Diesel project tonight... most of it was spent sitting on a bucket, hemming and hawing about the starting system, and engine position in the frame. See, the Volvo's flywheel is about 1/4" smaller in diameter than the frame rails... so it fits... but the thing's S/G started, and the belt's kinda taggin' the frame. Furthermore, the driveshaft is pretty darned close to where a steering column wants to be.
I've got two options... either notch the frame enough for the belt to clear, and eliminate the steering column (hydraulic valve up high?) and mount the S/G, or turn the flywheel down about a half-inch, install this ring-gear from an 85hp Evinrude V4 and starter, and slide the whole engine to the right a tad, and make more steering column space. Seein's how I"m kinda fried from all this gettin'-ready-for-baby stuff, I shut down for the night, before coming to a real conclusion. Frankly, I'd rather turn the flywheel and go ring-gear start, but the flywheel's too darned big to fit in my lathe... (sigh)...
 
Dave K.: Notch your lathe to get the fly wheel in. It's a no-no to torch a Cub frame.

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I E-mailed the copy of this manual to those that requested it. If you E-mailed me and didn't get a copy or decided you want a copy e-mail me.
 
MATT, ROB - The Freeport, IL. show is "A Nice One!" Nice grounds, lots to see. Be careful because They do have some steam engines. Neighbor back when We lived west of Freeport seven miles had a couple steam engines He showed every year.
DAVE K#2 - Any way You can mount the S/G higher to gain belt clearance? Maybe use a longer belt? And I'd move the steering gearbox before I'd turn the OD of the flywheel. Removing mass may REALLY upset the balance of the flywheel.
 
Shawn, with the clutch/brake pedal fully depressed gently pry between part#4 and part#5 and between part#5 and part#10.
 
During my 124 restoration last winter I noticed that the fluid in the rear was thicker than Hy-Tran should be. I replaced it with the good stuff. Could be that some one at some point used 80-90 or other gear lube.
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If so what damage could that cause if any? Also how often should the steering column gearbox be greased? I know the excess grease will travel up the steering tube, which eventually would be a bad thing. No help from owner’s manual.
 
Donnie, you'd better reread your Owner's Manual, here's what it says:

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Transmission

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Steering
 
Was reading my 129 owners manual last night and discovered that these tractors are supposed to run on 91 or 93 octane fuel. Do any of you guys do this???

Dean
 
Dean, I don't know if I'm doing the right thing but I just use regular 87 octane. Where I live in Wisconsin there isn't any ethanol in it, yet. But there is in the higher octanes. Perhaps one of the engine experts will give us the proper info. I recall some discussion of this in the past but don't remember what was determined.

Oh Don V., Dave K., Jim D.? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on July 13, 2004)
 
Dean, Kraig-

Around here we run cubs on Shell 89 octane, (87 isn't available at Shell stations here) which I believe has some ethanol in it. No problems.
 
Kraig - "Official Opinion" is 87 Octane is fine. Kohlers are low compression ratio engines. If the engine is not running lean, the timing is close, and the cooling fins are free of obstructions they will live happily on 87 octane. HOWEVER, I know a FEW PEOPLE on this forum who are suspected of running other fuels in their Kohlers. I won't name anyone in particular however.
 
Wow, have you guys been busy! We left here June 16, returned July 3. I started trying to catch up on the forum on July 5, and just managed to get caught up this morning.
Condolences and best wishes where they are due.
Of course, I did have some other things to do since we got back. We had over a hundred people here for a cookout/celebration last Saturday.
If you ever get the chance to go to Ireland, go. It was a blast. I'd go back next week. London was neat, too.
Last Tuesday, I managed to pick up the 125 I was talking about in May or June. Standard issue, no lights or 3-point, manual lift. Has a 42" deck with some custom ventilation on the rear bend, but not bad. Even has a rare "Wynn's Friction Proofing" decal on the rear cover. He seemed to have maintained it fairly well. He gave me the two grease guns he used to grease the deck, his operator's manual, and two extra sets of blades. It had a new battery this spring, and new belts on the deck and starter/generator. I drove it on the truck, unloaded it at home, topped off the oil (which will get changed before next use), and mowed the yard with it. Steering is a little hard, probably just needs greased. Hardly any axle slop. The hydro selector works better than my 147 or 109. Now I have an idea of how it should work. He had it in his shed for 15 years, but it's obvious that it was stored outside for a while earlier in its life. Left rear fender must have been used as a step or leverage point, since one of the spot welds is broken loose, and it flexes a little. There are some carb/governor adjustments to make, and plenty to do in the "pretty up" department, but it seems like a good tractor.
Now I need to figure out what I'm going to keep, fix, use, sell, etc. A three car garage and two sheds seemed like enough room two years ago....
 
Bruce, welcome back and CUBgratulations on your purchase of the finest model Cub Cadet ever built! :eek:)
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On the Kohler / octane thing, I've run 87, 89, and 100LL avgas in my K301 with 7.5:1 compression ratio head. I can't tell the difference between them in the way the engine runs; no sign of spark knock even on 100 degree days and heavy loads with 87 octane. This is not a very scientific analysis. I just got a deal on a digital thermometer so I'll have to thermocouple a spark plug gasket and see if various fuels show temperature differences. The avgas is my favorite due to the smell - marvelous! If only aftershave could be made to smell like this.

On another subject, any fellow cheeselanders going to the Saukville Antique Power Show this Saturday, July 17? Schedule says the feature attraction is Lawn & Garden, so I assume some Cubs will be displayed. Saukville is East of West Bend on Rt. 33.
 
My thoughts on greasing the steering gearbox and the front steering knuckels on a Cub Cadet. After some time (maybe 3 to 10 years depending on the conditions your tractor is used in) any grease you put in the gearbox or your front steering knuckels is headed for the nearest exit and probably does as much good as spitting into the wind.

On the steering gearbox the old grease gits around the bearings and needs to be cleaned out so you can get new grease to them. Consider that just routine maintenance, clean them up new grease, new seal, and dress up or replace the cam.

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On the steering knuckles I always jack the tractor up and rotate the wheel back and forth when I grease the front knuckles to get the grease around the spacer. After several years I will tear them down and you will still find the new grease is only on the front and old dried grease is around the rest of the spacer. They probably should have put grease fittings on both sides of the axle housing.

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If this saves anyone from some aggrevation:
Sunday we mowed with the 149/129. No engine problems. Monday it acted like it was running out of gas. Filled with "untrustworthy" gas. Won't run right. Emptied gas tank. This morning filled with new gas. Ran good - for 10 minutes. Fiddled and fiddled with carb. Changed carbs. No better. Would you believe that it boiled down to the condenser being loose in its holder? I'd have a hard time believing it, myself, but I cleaned and tightened it and have been happily mowing for the past 2 hours. So much to learn, so little time! God bless America!
 
Kraig, Matt and the rest of you...
Thanks for the info on the fuel. I found that info when I was trying to adjust my carb. My 129, when it gets hot...Stalls out and "BANGS" (actually backfires). I adjusted the high speed screw but made no difference.
I think after 30 years it is time for a carb rebuild.
Dean
 
Dean, will it start right back up after that or do you have to let it cool down? It could be the exhaust valve sticking slightly causing it to stall. The backfire is just unburnt gas getting into the exhaust, they'll almost all backfire if you shut them off without letting them idle down for a few moments. It could also be a condenser or the coil going bad and failing when it gets hot. I once had a condensor fail that way, it would work fine when it was cold.

Richard, great suggestions. This past weekend I took apart the steering gear in my Original for a rebuild as part of my refurbishing. The tractor is in pieces scattered around the garage, shed and basement. I hope I can get them all back together...... :eek:)
 
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