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Archive through July 01, 2009
- Thread starter bnolte
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
stanner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Tristan,
I've used those heimjoints on the 149 since 1993, they are still on there. They get dirty, and I do not lube them, so they won't attract dirt... After the restore, they are going back on. I beleive you can get boots for them from McMaster-Carr. I beleive they are sturdier than the stock, but the stock ones are pretty good, and look 'correct'. Before the heim joints, I used the stock ones with the "bailing wire modification" for 2 years...
I've used those heimjoints on the 149 since 1993, they are still on there. They get dirty, and I do not lube them, so they won't attract dirt... After the restore, they are going back on. I beleive you can get boots for them from McMaster-Carr. I beleive they are sturdier than the stock, but the stock ones are pretty good, and look 'correct'. Before the heim joints, I used the stock ones with the "bailing wire modification" for 2 years...
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Tristan:
Usual warning - get the ones with the studs in the balls, or you'll need to put washers between the joints and the steering arms to get proper clearance...the ones from CC Specialties are the correct type.
Bruce:
Make me a pair of 'em.....
Usual warning - get the ones with the studs in the balls, or you'll need to put washers between the joints and the steering arms to get proper clearance...the ones from CC Specialties are the correct type.
Bruce:
Make me a pair of 'em.....
Cub Cadet 1450.
On the top edge on the front in the triangular section of each of the side panels for the 1450 are two holes that permit a spring that pulls the side panels toegther in tension. After 30 years of use the vibration of the spring in those two holes is wearing through the panel and I'd like matching the profile of the "V" to provide more thickness to that location. I'm thinking a spot weld would do the job, but a Buddy suggested using epoxy to fasten two small steel washers on either side of the panel to increase thickness of the metal in the area and achieve tha same goal. Has anyone out there experienced the same problem and how was it resolved? Is the side panel metal thick enough (.066) to withstand any type weld? Is there an industrial strength adhesive that will work? Whose is it? (Forget Gorilla glue or Krazy Glue the vibration makes short work of these. I'm looking for suggestions.
On the top edge on the front in the triangular section of each of the side panels for the 1450 are two holes that permit a spring that pulls the side panels toegther in tension. After 30 years of use the vibration of the spring in those two holes is wearing through the panel and I'd like matching the profile of the "V" to provide more thickness to that location. I'm thinking a spot weld would do the job, but a Buddy suggested using epoxy to fasten two small steel washers on either side of the panel to increase thickness of the metal in the area and achieve tha same goal. Has anyone out there experienced the same problem and how was it resolved? Is the side panel metal thick enough (.066) to withstand any type weld? Is there an industrial strength adhesive that will work? Whose is it? (Forget Gorilla glue or Krazy Glue the vibration makes short work of these. I'm looking for suggestions.
snicklas
Well-known member
I definitely recommend the Heim joints with the studs in them. We have been using them on Dad's 149 for probally 25 years. They have been through everything and I dont think they have ever been lubed. They have even held together when the fron axle broke both times.... blasted pulley groves!!! When my stock ones on my 1450 go they will be replaced with the Heim joints. I even used them on my go-kart when I was younger.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Gary:
Welding?
Find someone with a TIG (AKA Heliarc) - you can weld tissue paper thin steel with the right TIG torch and amperage control (I'm using a Miller Synchrowave 200 and have been putting lap joints on sheet metal with almost no visible heat line on the back side..)
If you want to glue, use a good industrial epoxy - I'd use the type that takes a while to set - the 5 minute type usually sacrifices bond strength for quick setting....
Welding?
Find someone with a TIG (AKA Heliarc) - you can weld tissue paper thin steel with the right TIG torch and amperage control (I'm using a Miller Synchrowave 200 and have been putting lap joints on sheet metal with almost no visible heat line on the back side..)
If you want to glue, use a good industrial epoxy - I'd use the type that takes a while to set - the 5 minute type usually sacrifices bond strength for quick setting....
