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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Norm - what model tractor are you talking about? Are you lifting the brake pedal up? I think they're all a little different - maybe one has a pin with an R-clip the spring slips over. Don't really recall that being much problem. Mine was mostly figuring out exactly which bolts holding the pump you actually had to remove.
 
Norm Bartee

I used a brake tool I have ,it is like a big set of pliers with ends for the springs to hold the shoes on the drum . but I bet you could use another piece of wire to help pull the spring in place would tight using a screw driver.
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It's on a 1450, but had the same trouble on the 682. I have that brake tool also, Don, but no room for it to work. I finally got it on by using a 12" or so .25" dia. rod and just leveraged it on there. It's hit & miss & requires several tries to get it. Just thought there must be an easier way.
 
Kraig,
For the life of me I cannot find the garden plot in those pictures. I can't imagine a cub owner with that much extra lawn to mow wouldn't convert some of it to a garden. ;)
 
Terry

From the way Charlie talks, there is only two seasons at his place......winter and two weeks in July,
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and that's not much of a growing season....
 
Harry B.
Oh I'm here and yes the trucks got in just fine.
We ended up with 12".
6 hours blowin snow and the rest putting inventory away!
First truck was for me, 50 Cub seats. Second was the wife's, 9,000 pounds and 14 pallets, 3rd was mine again, 2 pallets from Cub Cadet.

Terry B.
You've been here!
I GOT NO DIRT.
It's all white sand, LOL

Paul B.
Yepper, that's the extent of our seasons in a nut shell.
 
Charlie - I just don't understand it. You're in the land of the Jolly Green Giant, greatest string beans and sweet corn in a can. If you got all white sand just add water and sunshine, and you'll grow the best ones to - actually you could put in tomatoes and watermelons and cucumbers as well. I think all of them in less than 90 days. I assume you're talking about white "river" sand, and not dust blown clay.
Hey, back on topic - glad to hear you got some Cub Cadet parts in. Now, did you ever find those rubber bumpers for the late model QL hood rest, that were also used for seats instead of the little rubber inserts. And how about the rubber grommet for around the spark plug on AQS engines. Lotta guys out there needing these things. Just about every QL I see a pic of is missing that grommet and it's not getting the complete cooling across the fins on the head.
(and by the way, glad to hear you sound like you ain't froze. Did it get down to -27?)
 
Would anyone happen to have an opinion as to who makes the most "correct" looking wiring harness for the late NF tractors.
 
Terry D

Mike Lamar makes a nice looking wiring harness; I need one for the 123 tiger cub build and plan to order one from him. Unless Charlie will give me a discount .
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BILL, TOM, DAN G. - Granted I'm BIASED, but I never could understand the allegence to the old poppin' johnny's. Dad had a FARMALL '39 H that became my first tractor I mowed & raked hay with, went to town for hog feed with, did chores with, hauled in corn, oats, hay, etc. Dad even used it to plant corn a couple years, but it was kinda small for pulling his 4-row planter so normally used his '51 M. The '39 H was loaded, lights, elec. starter, radio, hyd. Pretty competent light chore tractor even in early 1960 standards. The '40 B he bought had no lights, armstrong starter, therefore no possible way to run a radio, no hyd lift of any kind, only had 4 spds forward, three slow speeds and a 5 MPG high gear. Those features were later added as options in the early 1940's when they upgraded to a 6-spd trans. The '39 H being on rubber tires had a 16 MPH 5th. as standard equipment.

The old 2-cyl tractors had PTO, transmission driven, not live, similar to the Farmall's, but even for light loads like running our bale elevator they didn't run smooth enough to run even light loads smoothly, where as a FARMALL H or M would idle smoothly at 500-600 RPM to run them fine. The B had REVERSE as it's fastest gear, ran almost 6 MPH in reverse. Made backing carts & wagons a clutch slipping affair. Looking over one shoulder, reaching for the clutch lever. The later 6-spd tractors fixed that mistake. The FARMALL's had both brake pedals next to each other on the right front side of the platform, the green tractors had them off each side of the platform, you used your left foot for left brake, right foot for right brake. So to run them you had your arms & legs flailing around all over the tractor. With a FARMALL all the controls except the PTO were right in front of you, and the PTO was always down on the left rear edge of the platform behind the seat. Many companies made PTO shifter kits to move the lever to a better place, but just a longer rod extending up higher put the PTO lever right by the back side of the seat on your left. Engaging the PTO was just like reaching for your wallet on a FARMALL!

The later 2-cyl. tractors had a gated shift pattern, something they used for ever it seems. In the old 2-cyl tractors it was the most unwieldy thing ever combined with the hand clutch. You could not shift on the fly while moving. I can still run the SH or M up thru all five forward gears shifting on the fly and not even click a tooth on any of the gear changes. I guess the other company just thought you were supposed to slip the daylights out of the clutch to get heavy rolling loads moving. Guess that's why they used those multi-plate dry clutches in them that always dragged and they had to put a brake on them which everybody abused by using it to stop the tractor because they couldn't find the brake pedals.

Seems to me the later 2-cyl's you had to have the PTO running for the hyd's to work, which some times when pulling PTO driven trailing attachments you would want to raise them without running them. You could do that with any IH, but not a 2-cyl.

The green co. claimed their 2-cyl tractors made better low RPM torque than their competition, but from around 1952 to 1955 the Nebraska tractor test facility measured torque and the 2-cyl's all made less torque than the 4-cyl FARMALL's for their respective HP sizes. For instance, the 60, same size class as the M/SM, made about the same torque as a Super H, the next size smaller FARMALL. The Super M made more torque than the 2-cyl 70. And the IH's had their torque peak at a lower RPM in comparison to their full load RPM than the 2-cylinders. That's a great feature called "Torque Rise", as the engine pulls down under a hard load the engine pulls harder. The 2-cyl's. would have to pull WAY down in RPM and start bucking before their torque peak hit. That was hard on implements, and not good for the tractor either.

Of the three green tractors Dad had, the '49 R diesel, '40 B, & '63 4010, I never remember using the two 2-cyl's on ANY PTO work. We tried grinding cattle feed once with the 4010, but it filled the driveway of the corn crid with diesel exhaust and gassed both Dad & I out. We put the M or Super H on the grinder after that. The PTO on the 4010 was shiftable from 540 to 1000 RPM by switching the stub shaft which was bolted on with four short hardened bolts. BAD idea, bad design, when turning while running the PTO the bolts would loosen, and if not kept tight the stub shaft would wobble which caused the change gears at the front of the transmission to try to change speeds under load, with catastrophic results which required the tractor to be split to repair. We ran the pull-type combine with the 4010, but Dad checked those four bolts every load. IH's of that time period used a two shaft PTO since the ASAE spec's were different dimensionally between the 540 & 1000 RPM PTO. IH's met those spec's, JD's didn't.

I truely believe if that other company in Waterloo had not come out with the 3010/4010 in the fall of 1960, had waited until 1964, the year AFTER IH released the 706/806, kept building those old antiquated 2-cyl's for four more years, IH would still be building 125 tractors a day in Rock Island and JD would be a division of General Electric.

ANYHOW, Back to CC's. NORM - I always clip a small pair of VICE GRIPS to the loop on the end of the spring and pull it over whatever it hooks to, or feed the end of the spring wire into whatever hole it threads into. Prying around on a loose spring is DANGEROUS. When it slips it could fly around. "You're gonna put your EYE out!"
 
Snowin' like crazy here this AM. About 3 inches at 6 AM when I fired up the 1200. In 3rd gear the blade made quick work of the block long dead end street I live on, that the city always forgets about!!

Still comin' down and blowing as well. Might as well wait till it's over now that I got the Wife to work an I'm back home w/a full cup of coffee in hand. Maybe get some blower time on the 1650 yet!!

I sure don't miss the KW and the "road" on days like this! Son Les, woke up this AM in Brookings SD and is loaded to Mason City so he will be running into it soon.

Dave S.
 
Quick Update:

On topic stuff:

1650 Good news - me and the Boys cleaned-up the engine compartment on the 1650, reworked (though not totally happy with it) the engine cradle mod and are ready to drop the front axle and give the axle clevis a little pinch to tighten things up, and pull the head for the 14 hp engine that came with this tractor to see what kind of shape it's in. Will do a de-carbon too. The hydro lever for the tranny appears to be stuck - not sure what to make of it yet. The hydro lift lever works, but is out of position - leaning forward, will correct that.

109 - bad news: Right front tire went flat and broke the bead making a field re-inflate impossible. The treads are pretty much original and OLD. New tires are on the horizon.

126 - expected news. Me and the Boys pulled the tractor into the basement for a look-see. Engine turns by hands - so we took a peak down the spark plug hole. Engine turns, but piston doesn't move.

BTW - what is it with these IH rear fenders? The 109's got one fender banged-up and the whole back side of the 126 is bent in someway or another - both tail light lens' gone.

Off topic quick question:

Dennis F - much thanks for the IH vs JD history. Given the H's hp, where was MF and Ford in your area with their tractors of similar hp? Was AC a player in your neck of the woods? Was AC offering higher hp tractors similar to IH/JD? There is an old/small family dairy near where I work (at the salt mine) and they are an AC family business. AC tractors and AC garden tractors. Their front yard has some very nice stripes from those deck rollers every Summer...
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Dennis,
I hear you, but............why do some people like Chevy's and some like Ford's. If JD were such a POS why did they sell do well?
I spent my whole life running machinery and they all made GREAT piece of machinery and the all made POS too. <font size="-2">(Sorry for all who have heard me say that many mant times in the past.)</font>
 
Bill J - here's some comments to your quick update;

1650 - if it's been sittin along time it can rust in place, or you could have a linkage ball joint failure. Remove the gas tank and have a look in the underside dash area, for a big nut (about 1 and 1/8"). Spray it up with your favorite aerosal lubricant, maybe even wiggle the nut some and see if the lever will move. Then trace the linkage and look at the joints, apply spray, and have a look at the trunion and slots in the levers for binding. I believe there are pics in the manual that can help.

109 - recommend adding a tube, especially since the bead already broke.

126 - The spark plug hole might not be over the top of the piston - depends on your head style.
Does the engine "spin" by hand and continue rotating when you let go? Do you feel any resistance? Does it spin any different with the spark plug in place vs. removed? Does it make any noise when you rotate it?

BTW Rear Fenders - I don't understand the reckless drivers banging up the fenders. I've seen so many of the 1x6/7 and 1x8/9 and QL style banged in, broken tail light lenses and mounts. It's not easy to bend the fenders so it has to be reckless driving and in reverse no less. (I have been pretty successful straightening them out if they are pushed in. I use a 2x4 or sometimes 2x6 wedged between the tire and fender, lift up hard on it at the same time using a hammer somewhat lightly on the outside edge of the fender where it just makes that curve from horizontal downward. It's usually tweeked out there a little and needs to be tweeked back in anyway. This obviously has to be done with the fenders installed. If you happen to over due it - well, go out and buy some of those body shop tools for straighting stuff. As for the tail lights, well the original 1x8/9 and QL are "like gold" these days.

Dennis, Bill and Tom - I tried to elude to it the other day. Allegiance was not only to the brand but to the local dealer that kept that equipment operating. IH had set up the best dealer network across the country hands down.
Back in that era I don't think most farmers wanted to drag their equipment someplace 3 counties away. In 1959 IH introduced the 460/560/660 with their new big hp engine - and the final drives failed left and right out in the fields. They recalled the tractors but not before a big spot on reputation. I don't know what they replaced these units with as part of the recall. As Dennis mentioned JD introduced something big in 1960. Best I can tell IH was always trying to catch up after that. Dennis is probably right if JD waited to 1964, then IH would have had the properly engineered drive line and JD would have never got the jump on them. Dennis, it's probably slightly before your era but did you ever hear anything about the 460/560/660 from 1959?

David S - why didn't you use the 1650 with the thrower for that 3" of snow. Geez, with a street 1 block long, I'd a been running full hydro speed ahead (8mph). Should have only taken about 15-20minutes.
 
BILL - AC was a strong #3 in our neigborhood. Half the farmers had a WD-45, or D-17, several were all orange. Then our closest dealer 20 miles away closed and most of those farmers went green.

There were a few old N-series Fords for loader tractors around, one 6000 Power Commander with "Select-o-Speed" power shift. It was troublesome enough to keep ALL the other farmers from buying a Ford for years. Later when Ford came out with their new number series a few showed up, one neighbor had a #5000 loader tractor, My Cousin had an 8600 and a farmer 20 miles away had a TW-30 as recently as ten yrs ago. But the closest dealer was 35 miles away.

Only M-F I remember was my Uncle's #35 utility tractor. Don't know why they didn't sell better, maybe the dealer.

There were a few other off brands around too, Oliver, Minny, and after their merger, White; Massey-Harris when they were built, and JI Case.

Everything around home had to be suited for row crop work, cultivating, running a mounted corn picker. That left many brands out of contention.

TOM - Just like cars/trucks, the dealer plays a large part in what brand sells. Tractors & farm equip need parts/service quick when you need them fixed. Around the early 60's when the New Generation tractors came out is when green really started taking over. Even today the green dealers have a "Bounty" for every other colored piece of equip they can take in on trade. That seems like it would irritate farmers wanting to upgrade from a older green piece of equip to a new piece. Supposedly having a newer red, yellow, blue tractor, combine, etc sitting on your lot sends a message that "Green is Better".

Our farm was located between two decent JD dealers and two good IH dealers. In the 1960's, if you wanted to buy a new $8000-$10,000 tractor the green dealers would talk to you. If you wanted to trade up from a ten yr old tractor to something 4-5 yrs old they'd barely talk to you. The IH dealer's always took time to talk to you.

I agree with you, lot of companies made some decent equipment, and every co. made some junk. There's some IH equipment that I wouldn't own. Best example is balers. New Hollands always tied better than an IH. According to CH Wendell, IH made 67,000 #8 plows from 1928 t0 1960. Seemed like everybody had one and they ALL cussed them. They had no trash clearance. The later plows, #60 & #70, and the semi-mounted 500 & 700 series were great plows. Many pulled by green and "other than red" tractors. Dad used Case plows the last 6 years he farmed. Much better plow than a #8. Dad used JD pull type combines, planters, Kewanee discs & peg tooth harrows, Brillion rotary mower/chopper. NOBODY pulled a JD disk, well, one farmer did, they ridged terribly. And even though JD gets credit for making the first successful steel plow, any green plow made after about 1970 is sitting in the fence row rusting away now while IH 700-series are actually increasing in value. Lots of short line co's made/make better implements than the full line co's in many cases. But you still needed a good dealer near by for parts for them. Only one guy in the neighborhood used a JD mounted picker, then he was a glutton for punishment, he used an A for his loader tractor. JD made a terrible mounted picker, IH made a better one, then New Idea took over the market in the 60's. But by the time then the big combines had taken over combining corn.

I've logged as much seat time on green tractors as red tractors, or at least very close to the same number of thousands of hours on each. IH's are all older 50's vintage. Green are mostly on 60's & newer. The newer green tractors are O-K and had some really good features, their power steering was second to NONE, but they burned more fuel than a red tractor. And they finally got the ergonomics right! But I still HATE the old poppin' johnny's! I had to go to my local IH Red Power ShowDown Day fall of '79 to get some seat time in a 1586 while I was working @ FARMALL. Nobody I knew had an 86-series tractor. It was impressive. Salesman was in the cab with me while I plowed my round. Asked me my name; he recognized my name. I said he probably knew my Mom who worked in the local hospital for 20 years. He asked if my Uncle was my Dad by name. "No. My Dad drives a semi-truck for FS". Then he realized I wasn't who he thought I was. Then I get THAT attitude again. Not another word was spoken. He couldn't get me out of that cab quick enough. I still chuckle at his quick change in attitude 30+ yrs later.

Personally, I find most people who are smitten with the old 2-cyl poppin' johnny's have never spent 8-10-12 hours straight running one listening to them hammer & bang away. I have. Many times. Guess that's why I can tolerate the straight pipe on my #72 CC for 5-6 hours when I mow.

Lets get back to talkin' Cub Cadets O-K? Plus I gotta go scrape 5-6 inches of snow out of the drive before my wife gets home. It's wet HEAVY stuff too... Hope the K161/181 in the 70 with the QA-36 is feeling STRONG today!
 
Tom H - did I hear you mention the 1100? Is it listed in the Quiet Line brochure?

Dennis - someone was asking the other day about bolting a QA36 to a 70/100 or 1x2/3 series unit. Did you have to modify the holes on the frame mount bracket? I sorta recall the hole in teh bracket doesn't line up with the hole in the tractor frame.
 
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Harry Bursell (Hydroharry) on Wednesday, January 30, 2013 - 02:49 pm:

Tom H - did I hear you mention the 1100? Is it listed in the Quiet Line brochure?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

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<font size="-1">NOPE!</font>
 
Harry,
It's in my Ron Keller book and I'm sure I can dig up another one. Whatcha' need?
 
HARRY - I'm just kidding about having the QA-36 on the 70. I haven't even mounted the QA-36 for ten years, and it'd go right on the 72. I use my big tractor for pushing snow. I do have the 42" blade on the 70 but this wet heavy snow we've been getting this year is too much for the little guy. We had 14-15 inches Dec 21st, couple inches the other day, and 5-6 inches today I have to clean up. Anything more than 1-2 inches and I use the big tractor.

If there were holes to drill or modify to mount a QA-38 to a pre-quik-tach tractor I bet the QA-36 instruction manual has the info. I know the blade manual I printed off the manuals section here had detailed instructions on mounting the blade on anything from a 70 to a 147.

I made another quik-tach bracket years ago patterned after the mount on the QA-36 and I know it bolts up fine to both the 70 and the 72. But it doesn't have the 1/2" dia rod to engage the quik-tach ears on the front. But the rod on the quik-tach on the QA-36 should hang below the frame rails anyhow. Just be in the way while trying to install the belt.
 
Tom H - nope, not need'n anything on it. I was just responding to your comment "they all made POS too". It always kind of bugged me with an 11hp BS and Peerless rearend - sorta a Cub Cadet in disguise. On the other hand, you still hear of one being around every once in awhile.

Dennis - I don't think there is anything in the QA36/42 manual about connecting to an earlier non-Quick Attach tractor frame but I'll check again. As for the big tractor, we don't allow that kind of discussion on here (what is it).
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Kraig, Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - thanks for posting the brochure info. One thing a little odd about the specs for the 800 and 1000, it lists rear tire size as 6-12 and I sure never seen those.
 

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