I did some measuring for wheel clearance on the 15 with the 421u111 deck and get 18" where the rear gage wheels set now. I could move them inside the brackets for 14" . I did measure the tru powers mounted on the tractor at 20"inside . how much Clarence do these deck need so they don`t hit the tires?
Don T - sounds like you have 1" clearance between the gauge wheel and the tire. This is "not a whole lot". Your gauge wheels look to be in pretty good shape and I suspect the bolts are as well, so you probably won't have an issue as long as you do not run the gauge wheels on the ground, but keep them set so they just provide lift on uneven surfaces. 1" is not a whole lot of clearance and we know your rear tires are not really gonna move, but the sub-frame will some movement, and the deck as well so best I can say is just install it and use it but keep an eye for movement side to side rubbing against your tires. May not even cause a problem. Most of these decks I've seen had the gauge wheels removed, but most have also been the 38". It might have been because these type wheel make it harder to slide the deck under the tractor. Let us know when you grass grows and you start cutting.
Kraig, Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - I don't know why the situation with the suffix "A" thrower adapting to a non QA tractor bugs me so much but it does. Something just hit me! I remember having a thrower where someone had welded on some metal to "extend" the ear where the Frankenstein bolt would be located. I never thought to much about it at the time other than wondering why they did this. I now think the "extended ear" would allow the thrower to be bolted to an existing hole in the frame. To secure the thrower you would also have to drill a hole in the thrower mount just behind (rearward) of where the link mount pin is located, and at the point where the frame already has a hole with a nut welded on the inside (above and slightly toward the front of where the axle aligns with the frame). I think this would be alot less involved than the other fixes like cutting pieces of flat stock and drilling several holes, etc. It would involve just a small amount of welding where you extend the thrower frame ears. I wish I had your talent for drawing pics with arrows and circles, but even when I tried to use paint brush the lines were all squiggly. Would you like to attempt to draw what I described (for the record - files - archive?)
Ron S - good suggestion for Don T, that the basic sub-frame (less the mule drive set up mount) may work for either a wide or narrow frame tractor. I wonder that myself. I think there may be an issue with the sub-frame fork. I think the length of the forks are shorter on a sub-frame used with wide frames, and the bar with the U end that mounts into the rod welded across the tractor frame may not work because of it's S shape and length. (I think basically the NF tractor frame is slightly longer than a WF tractor frame resulting is slight differences in the mount locations for these attaching items). Maybe Don T has enough time to figure it out, try it and let us all know.
Kraig - (continuation to below) - I copied Williams pic you provided a link to, and you can see where he placed the front mounting bolt. It has to be into the existing hole in the frame where the nut is welded on the inside of the frame. If the ear slot on the thrower were just a little bit longer you could use the existing hole in the frame for the other mounting bolt (but need small fingers to get the nut on the inside of the frame).
Took a look-see at a triangular deck this evening - for my 126. It was supposed to be from a 129 tractor and 42", but turned out to be from a 106 and was a 38" deck. I think the price was a little pricey too. Kind of funky looking with a very much larger center blade and very small side blades than my 48 inch deck.
I would think a 38 inch deck would give a great cut, being so small and would easily fit between the wheel wells of a pick-up truck and a gate or two..
Just curious, anyone used a 38 inch deck and if so, what is your opinion of them.
Don T, I put a 42" deck like that on my 125 and then on to my 782. Just have to find what ever under carriage works and then the correct mule drive. I don't have any wheels on mine, but my property is mostly level. I like the cut of those triangle decks. I'm sure you will be happy with that 125 and mower combo.
I Need to find out what starter is for my cub cadet. the model # shows 149/660/100 the only serial # I find is 000779586. The mechanic said it's a 2 cylinder kohler engine.<font color="ff0000"><font face="arial,helvetica"></font></font>}
Use your imagination with that pump. It looks a lot like the one on Claude, my Ford 4000 but not quite. I do know it's an expensive part. It sounds like you made one heck of a haul. Use it wisely but try not to do any drilling or welding on the cub if possible. I'm sure you'll work out something nice. It would be perfect for power steering since that's what it was designed for in the first place (or power blade angle as you mentioned).
Have you done any research to find out any history of the pump?...any labels or numbers on it? Maybe some of the guys here will recognize it and give some feedback.
George Mc - it doesn't sound like you have a Cub Cadet by "International Harvester" with that model/serial number. Try going over to the thread for "CCC and MTD Machines and Equipment" which is about a 3rd the way down the list at the beginning of the Forum
If you have a REAL FLAT lawn and on the small side the 38" is a good setup. The obvious is the 38" will take longer to cut than a 42", 48" or a 50" deck. Being that the guage wheels are to the inside (if you have guage wheels) the smallest of grade change will cause the mower to cut lower to the downhill side. With the wide mowers the guage wheels are on the outside of the deck and allow it to "follow" the ground better.
I have a 38" on my 109 worker and it does a fine job for me.
Mr. Tanner: the power steering pump is off of a 62-64 Ford. they have the removable cap. On a 59 Ford you have to remove the wing nut and take off the lid to put fluid in it. The same pump is also used on early 60's Studebakers. I have front seals somewhere.
Bill i have the same deck on a 104. It has the deck wheels on the outside of the tractor tires. They are 950 tires and miss the deck wheels about 1 inch on each side.With that said i don't like a 38 or 42 deck. I have a lot of trees and shrubs to mow around. For me i want a 44 or 48 with a spring assist.
Harry B: NO PROBLEM keeping the coil COOL the other day!! And I do indeed have all the engine tin and muffler shields in place. Although I did also find out I have oil seeping out the top of the engine fins on front so I guess it's gonna be head gasket time for this one.
I have a 14 HP sitting on the bench I just finished up the head gasket/resurface thing on and am entertaining the idea of dropping it in the 1200 for now to get it back in service should we get more of the whites tuff. It is slated to go back in the 1450 soon as I get the fender pan repaired and painted but that's looking like a springtime thing when I can do sandblasting outside. That will give me the rest of the winter to check out the 12HP, do the head surface/gasket and do thorough inspection and gasket replace/paint/detail on it.
Harry: I went digging through all of L. William Rehm's posts for the benefit of Matthew Pramas who recently raised the question in the Sandbox. Mr. Rehm posed the problem elegantly in response to a suggestion from Art Aytay by posting the following photo:
Kraig suggested the following fix:
with the accompanying text: Bill R., please excuse the poor quality sketch, but this is what I was suggesting in my post below. A simple plate, actually two of them, one for each side, each with two holes and a welded on stud. This setup would allow use of the QA42A on a non-QA equipped narrow frame with no mods to either the tractor or to the implement. Well the implement might need subtle "tweaking" of the subframe . . ..
[Continuing] Gerry [Ide], on my QA42 there's enough wriggle room for a thin plate perhaps 3/16" on each side but a thicker plate might need some "tweaking" on the subframe to allow room for the adapter bracket plates. But then, my QA42 might be "tweaked" slightly already. OR One could make the plate so that is is spaced out from the frame and the stud faces inward toward the frame so that the snowthrower sub frame slips behind it.
A few days later, L. William posted that he was going to make a trip to see Scott Madson, and Jeff Derstine immediately posted the solution he came up with:
with text accompanying: All you need is this simple adapter which will bolt to the back two holes in your 122. Make the outside plate out of 1/4" thick material, a 3/8" thick center plate (to replicate the spacing of the frankenstein bolts) and a .100 thick inside plate to duplicate the washer thickness of the frankenstein bolt. The red holes are 17/32" (.531) and the blue pin is 5/8" diameter (frankenstein bolt). Center distance is 2" between the 17/32" holes and an additional 2" to the 5/8" pin. This should work perfectly. In fact, I'll be making a set for myself for my own 122.
I think Mr. Rehm basically implemented Jeff's suggestion. He eventually posted the solution you have shown below with accompanying pictures showing the parts.
Mr. Rehm wrote: The pieces, before I removed the "inner" 1/8" piece of bar stock. The inner bar was giving me fits trying to get the bracket installed without pulling the engine. May not be too pretty but once I get a longer lift rod, I'm cookin' with gas!
I think I have all this straight. Most of the valuable discussions occurred July 8-10, 2010 with Mr. Rehm posting his solution October 20, 2010 after your urging on September 22, 2010. (Note: L. William Rehm's first post on the topic was on December 21, 2009.)
Since the consensus seems to be that the mythical IH "Adapter" either never existed or at least did not contain the necessary part, I thought it would be worthwhile to pull everything together on one page.