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Archive through January 17, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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pvanbenschoten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 13, 2004
Messages
75
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Paul Van Benschoten
Rodney, I don't know if they lined up before. There was no wear button, so I always kept the clutch away from the thrust button. I will see if there is any vertical play in the clutch. I don't recall any as I was installing the wear button.

Keith, After I check for vertical play I will try a larger gap. It makes sense that the pressure spring could be pressing on the end of the crank shaft.

Thanks for the ideas
 
Paul,
A few shims under the cast grill housing and that should solve your alignment problem...
 
Paul Van Benschoten
Just a thought here. I read your post over and over and I have to ask if you have the PTO bearing in the correct place. I say that because I think the second time I installed one I had it to far onto the crank and the PTO would not release. I have found with the clutch plates ground true and new parts they will hang for awhile but tall grass and letting the PTO clutch slip some will wear them in and fix the run on.If not the the bearing to far on the crank and the PTO will not disengage.also make sure your center spring is centered as to not put pressure on any one side of the face. I want to see more of the problems others have had with PTO`s also.
 
Lewis Palma
does a 127 pto rod go through the frame ? I think the cast grill hosing just helps keep the PTO button centered, I have added washers to help with alignment on my 129. ?
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Set me straight guys.
 
Don T.
You are prolly right on the 127.I have done it on a wide frame also.My bad...
 
Wayne/Kraig,
To keep on the implement subject, the pin the PO has used sux! The "saftey pin" will snap off or worse yet shear off and get between the two sections. If you don't have the original pin I think it wouls be to hard to make one. He's a pic of mine.
219779.jpg
 
help.gif

TOM,
That is my blade the PO used the 'safty pin"
on. Do you think you would be able to get me a close up pic of yours sometime. BETTER YET! YOU HAVE TWO. LETS SHARE!!!! LOL
err.gif

ROD
 
I'll hesd out to the garage tomorrow and see if I have a pin laying around to photo
 
Tristan,
I did alot of logging (at the cabin) with my 149's a log arch/cart is the best way but cost to much so I built a 3 foot rear boom to run off my hyd rear lift. If you trim the small end off the tree on an angle (so it wont bite the dirt) and hook a chain tight to it and cut tree's to 15 foot lengths you can lift them high enough to pull. You will need front weight bracket, rear wheel weights with Ag tires. Once you get her moving don't stop. I watched a farmer use his rear scoop to do the same. PS trim all the branches flush with the log.
 
Paul, thanks for the advice. Did you happen to skid logs uphill at all? The problem I am envisioning is that 75% of my logging is downhill from the truck.

I see what you are saying about the boom. Infact I thought Aaron (sponsors above) had one for sale but I do not see it now. I dont have hydro lift on my two workers now but I do have a 1450 for parts I plan on putting the lift parts onto my 129. However that tractor needs some motor work and the hydro control is all over the place I tend to use the 1000 now mostly, its dead solid reliable.

I've been meaning to get a front weight braket - and I've got good atv tires on it (very ag like tread pattern) and filled with antifreeze & smallish (25 lb?) weights.

Wish I had a bigger tractor but these cubs do amaze me at what they can do. And a bigger tractor would mean I need a bigger trailer as well...

I have attached a pic of the area I cut firewood, you can kind of see the hill. Sorry the pic doesnt show it clearly, but the truck is as far as I dare take it, the tractor goes the rest of the way. Its the woods in the background over the hood (but the actual spots I go to are far off the screen to the left), its a pretty good slope going down there. The problem with the dump cart is it just takes too many trips and each trip is a pretty good long hike so its very time consuming.

219783.jpg


And another a pic for the heck of it. You can see it takes forever to fill up my bed with one cart load at a time (bed heaped full just a tad over a cord).
219784.jpg
 
Tristan'
My property is flat, but some area's are wet I used a rear mounted electric winch to pull them out then grabbed them with the other 149. Be sure you chock the wheels before you winch or it will pull her in, I know! LOL. Your right about the Cubs I cleared a three acre sight to build the cabin these cubs are priceless to me!
Good luck & be safe!
 
TRISTAN,
Beautiful area there.
What about something differant in a trailer!
Say maybe a jon boat trailer. Something like that is cheap around here. ($100-150) Can you zig-zag back up the hill so you aren't under hard pull all the way? I'm thinking maybe shorten tongue some. Then load a little heavier
in the front for traction.
ROD
 
Rod,

Thanks it sure is nice there. That particular farm the family doesnt farm anymore and its more a less a weekend getaway, hunting camp, and source of precious firewood for several of us. Over 200 acres and nearly half wooded.

Zig zag... sort of. The hill is pretty much even all the way from woodline to woodline and I had a path diagnally across it all the way, so just one zig. Whenever I tried to turn the other way with a big load she'd start slippin' and fuss'n. So more or less a straight path at as shallow an angle as I can.

Yes a new trailer is a big consideration. I didnt think of starting with a boat trailer though, that might not be a bad idea. But it would halve to fit on a 6x10 trailer with the cub, and as it is right now I stack a couple layers deep and my dump cart goes on top of those rows of wood. I think my current dump cart would be fine if the cart extended towards the hitch about half way more, that would increase its size by about 50% and add more tounge weight.

I have seen some really nice wagon/carts like mine but bigger. They are just to gosh darn expensive! http://www.rescraft.com/trailers.html#trailers
22cuft, huge tires, even skiis available. Think the base model goes for around $700
rolleyes.gif
 
Paul Van Benschoten

I think a 125 and 127 is probably the same when it comes to where the pto lever is mounted. I see now what Lewis P was up to on adding washers under the grill housing and he is correct . washer would raise the PTO button up to get a better alignment with the PTO clutch. I washed my 125 this am and see now he was correct.
219795.jpg


I think a little degrease when a long way here.
219796.jpg
 
Not having much luck getting the steering wheel off the 125. I had a look and want to know if I remove the dash tower and unbolt the steering box can I get this out of the tractor.I want to remove the wiring harness and I can`t get my paws in them small places. The hydro handel must come off also I see.Later Don T
 
Don, you should be able to unbolt the steering gear AND the hydro linkages and remove the pedestal with the steering column and the hydro control mechanism all as one unit. Keep in mind that the steering wheel and hydro control lever will be harder to remove with them off of the chassis. Might be time well spent to let the steering wheel hub soak in PB blaster... To remove the hydro control lever, once you have the set screw out place a block off wood on top of the handle and whack it with a hammer this should break it loose and you should be able to work it off. I learned that trick for removing the hydro control lever from Art Aytay.
thumbsup.gif
 
Thanks Kraig

I have been soaking it with PB Blaster Charlie sent over here a year ago. I have added acetone also and have soaked now for a week. I will give it one more try with the mulit angle swing press, I just hate to beat on anything .I made an order out for the parts I will need to get the 125 running ,and CCS will look after me .I think I will try this 125 out with a mower deck and see how it does. Thanks again Don
 
what if IH never went bankrupt and had to sell cub cadet. i wonder what the modern cub cadet would look like if it was still owned by tractor people? would it resemble what we own still or would it be the same as we have now?
 
Andrew,

My .02 cents say they probably wouldn’t be too much different than what we have now. If you look at the ’60 to ’80’s timeframe, all tractors were pretty close in construction (rugged), at least the name brands were. To be competitive, as soon as one manufacturer got cheaper, the others would have to follow suit or go out of business.
 
its really too bad. certain people i know try to tell me that an IH cub cadet is just a lawnmower. well we all know that is far from true. they are small tractors. tough and durable. many small acre farms have been farmed using this generation of tractor. someone once said, why would i spend my money on something so old, that i could get something newer for the same money i spent on a 40 year old tractor.

so we all know why we spend the money on a 40 year old tractor, some people just have a hard time understanding our passion
 

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