Archive through May 21, 2016

[wshytle]

Brian-

If I were you I'd plan on going through the entire clutch. What you have has probably given 30+ years of service and it's just time to make it ready for another 30. Check out the manual section too to get a good idea as to what you'll be up against (if you don't have manuals on hand). I've done a few of these clutches and they all needed the bracket/pivot holes in the clutch arm welded up a little and resized along with a new pin (I have used 3/8" bolts for this pin). The working end of the same arm will need some attention as well from working the throwout bearing. Of course you can always go with new too. Another main concern with doing the clutch is having the pressure plates resurfaced. Be sure and inspect your drive shaft for wear. I'd replace the teaser spring with new for sure if it isn't broken already...prolly broken.

A couple of cents worth...good luck!

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[bellwood]

My main problem is going to be finding someone who'll be willing to do this with me..

I do have the TC-SEC-K parts manual and the IH-GSS-1398 service manual...

I think I might have to find someone local who'll be willing to help me... I can turn a wrench but when I do something "crazy" for the first time I like to work with someone who knows what they are doing so once you're in the thick of it, they know what they're looking at...

 

[wshytle]

The clutch is not that difficult. The first thing I'd do is take plenty of pics and store them for easy reference on reassembly. There are loaded springs involved so some care/safety is needed.

You could start a thread in the "refurb" section and get a lot of coaching there on the different steps. You may get even more here in this section. Either way you have several people that are familiar with this fix.

If you don't weld then it can get rather pricey. I weld things up to save a little plus it seems to work just as well.

It's also a good project to learn how much fun working on a narrow frame can be.

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[bellwood]

Thanks for the advice Wayne

So basically I'd be doing:

1) engine removal
2) pages 2-14 -> 2-17

Do you think I need to also split the tractor to service the breaks or are my described issues namely going to be a clutch job only?

My neighbor can do welding so I should be OK there

 

[wshytle]

Brian-

I don't have the manual in front of me but no, you don't have to remove the engine...just loosen it to where you can remove the drive shaft/clutch assembly. The biggest pain will be the 1/4" roll pin at the rear end. This requires you to stand on your head (LOL) in order to access the coupler. You will need a long drift pin...preferably one designed for roll pins. Then all you will need is to disconnect the clutch adjustment rod and the pivot pin for the clutch arm. Now it should fall into your arms ready for servicing. Remember, the clutch spring is loaded and care needs to be taken here. Again...manual time.

I wouldn't be splitting the tractor just yet. Have you even tried to adjust the brakes? It's a rather simple procedure and doesn't require the tractor to be split at all. This is where the manual will be worth your time as well

As a matter of fact you may want to just read through the procedure in the manual before getting started. It pretty much covers all of the bases.

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[rkelm]

Brian, I am in the same boat as you with my clutch. Is the manual the IH -GSS-1398? I need to look at that one in the manual section. All the help is appreciated. I am a little reluctant to tackle this as well but I feel I can do it.

 

[bellwood]

Wayne,

I haven't regarding the brakes yet simply because I came here first... Prior to this all happening the brakes worked just fine... It's only with this new development with the shifting issue that the brakes are now seemingly having issues...

Now, that being said, if the clutch isn't fully disengaging then the brakes simply might not be able to counter act the drive and therefore give the appearance of a braking issue...

I did read over the section for servicing the clutch and it stated you'd need to remove the engine

I've printed those few pages to PDF here:

https://sites.google.com/site/shiftedbytes/124%20clutch%20and%20brake.pdf?attredirects=0&d=1

Thanks =)

Rodney: yes thats the correct one

 

[wsdrake]

Brian and Rodney-

I understand your hesitation with this. When I replaced the friction disk on my 108, I was a bit nervous as well. But everything was fine! The hardest part for me was getting the last coil pin back in, as you have to compress the loading spring to gain access to the last hole. That was a bit of a pain, but everything else went smoothly.

Just take your time and follow the service manual to the letter, and you can't go wrong. These clutches are relatively simple. Wayne has given good info on what to keep an eye on during your rebuild.

If you do get stuck, just do what I do. Take pics and bring your questions here. Everyone here has always been helpful and nice to me when I needed help. Good luck guys, I know you'll get it figured out!!

 

[sblunier]

Wrestled the 982 Special/2072 OVER the 60" Haban deck this afternoon. .....PITA, but....worth the effort, man those 60's can cut some grass!!!! Spent the morning on the 656 planting beans.....been an all IH weekend!

 

[wshytle]

Brian-

I know the manual states to remove the engine but believe me, it's not necessary. Just remove the 4 engine mounting bolts then you will be able to tilt/wiggle the engine enough that the drive shaft slips out of the drive plate bushing.

BTDT.

I think your brake issues will remedy themselves eventually.

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[wshytle]

Brian-

I was just reading over some of the manual and it tells you to do a few things that aren't really necessary like removing the locating roll pin before removing the clutch assembly/drive shaft. The only roll pin that HAS to be removed is the one in the rear coupler. The rest can be done on the bench.

The hardest thing you will be dealing with here is the loaded clutch spring. Matt Gonitzke designed a tool just for dealing with this spring and it works great. He posted on the last page here and from that post you can go to his site and see the tool. The manual tells us to use a vise for relieving the pressure on this spring which I think can be a little risky.

IMO, one of the most important parts with this job is the drive shaft itself. If it's heavily worn it should be replaced. They aren't that hard to make but the length, hole locations, and hole centering are critical. Check out CC Specialties above and see if ole Charlie has one (if needed). If you load a worn drive shaft with new parts the clutch job just won't last, or necessarily work as it should. By using a new shaft with a little lubrication in certain spots it will "work like butta".

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[pfunk]

I've repaired several clutches and I think it's a lot easier to just get the engine out of the way. But, I'm sure a lot of others will disagree with that approach. Here's how I do it. I'm getting old enough that I do as little work under the tractor as possible.

 

[wshytle]

Paul-

I agree with you in that having the engine completely out of the way is an advantage. I've done them both ways. I find it somewhat just as easy or maybe a little easier to remove the engine mounting bolts and with the drive shaft free push and wiggle a bit until the shaft pops out of the bushing. It has worked every time for me and I don't have to rework the throttle, choke, wire to coil, v/r shifting, or anything else involved with the complete removal.

It actually sounds like I'm just a little lazier than you. I regard you as a champ in the hobby.

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[szilonis]

Hello Folks, Im new to IH tractors and posting. My buddy gave me a 1964 Cub Cadet 100 he restored then blew the throw out bearing plowing his driveway and gave up. I replaced to bearing and put in new s[rings, small and large one and put it back together. It works but now only in 1st and reverse gear. Cant get it to go into 2nd and 3rd and it has a creeper gear. He said they al;l worked before. Do I need to adjust something or any advice? Thank you

 

[jbaker]

Steve, Welcome, I wonder if you have a bent shift fork or something there. here is a picture, easy to pull the shifter.

 

[jwiggins]

Hi All,

Thought I would update on My "Short Cut" (in place) trunion repair.
Well I Had to cut grass before my Refurbish was Completed but the Trunion Repair was a Success!!!!
149 will creep up hill without giving more on the speed control Lever, and it will NOW Crawl Down Hill without speeding up,,,
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I Packed The Entire Trunion Spring Area with Mobil AW2 Industial Grease,,,

Same For The Seized Brake Pivot I Finally Freed Up,,,
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Also Was Having Trouble Finding An Actual Dash "TIN" Replacement so I decided to go with the Vinyl Decals since this is NOT an Actual Restoration,,,,
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So Far all the Repairs and Rattle Can Touch up Paint seem to be Going Ok,,,,
Since this 149 is Going to "WORK" figured an Actual Restoration not really Practical for My Needs,,,,

Anyway the Refurbish is Almost Complete, Still missing one Headlight Bezel and Both Tail Lights,,,

So far so Good Though,,,
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Again Just wanted to say thanks For The Awesome Site Here, And Thanks for all the Help and Suggestions along the Way,
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ihcubcadet.com , Couldn't and Probably Wouldn't Have done it without your Info, How to's, and FAQ's

Thanks Again,,,
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[fcurrier]

Jason:

 

[dschwandt]

Jason!
Looks GREAT!!
Sure good enough to take to ant tractor show I have ever been to!!

 

[jwiggins]

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Frank, David, Thanks!!!!

Forgot to Mention,,,

I still Need Left Side Headlight Bezel, Both Tail lights, And a "REAL 149 Muffler". LoL

I Hate that Briggs & Stratton Thing That's on There Now,

UGH,,,,

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I also Decided to do away with the Rubber Fuel Line,
Used a Few 1/8" Pipe Fittings, a quarter Turn Swagelok Ball Valve, And Bent some 1/4" Soft Copper rest the way Into a 1/8" x 1/4" Tube adapter That I Replaced The Original Barbed Fitting w/ that was Originally in The Carb,,,

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Turned Out Ok,,, Just Misses The Hood And Air Cleaner!!!
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I've been Really Happy with the Refurbish, That Darn Muffler Is Really Getting To Me Though,,,,

It "WILL" have a 149 Muffler Before 2 Long, I Guarantee You THAT!!!!

LoL

Thanks Again,,,
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[fcurrier]

Jason: Count your blessings - it's not a 169 that you need a new muffler for!