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Archive through February 22, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Ron,

Thanks for the info. That is the first thing I was going to do as soon as it gets a little warmer. Snow is over but they are talking freezing rain this weekend and early next week. Much thanks on the pump information. I thought they used the same pumps but wasn’t sure. Once I get it apart I’ll let you know. Maybe a week or two. Good thing I still have a working 782.
 
John N., I'm still leaning towards a sheared spirol pin. IF you heard a noise I might suspect rag joint but if it just quit moving forward/backward and the hydraulic lift quit I'd lean towards a sheared spirol pin, BTDT. If when you remove the tunnel cover all looks well, check the spirol pins, (one in each of the cast hubs on each side of the rag joint) the ends will likely still be in the cast hub, see if the driveshaft spins inside the cast hub.

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<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>
 
I guess I'll jump in and say that when I broke/lost a spirol pin in my 1811's driveshaft, it made strange noises and also obviously didn't move and the lift didn't work. I'm also willing to bet that's the problem.
 
Update on my K321 problem. Got the engine disassembled today. Here's a pic of the cylinder damage:

52227.jpg


As you can see, there is a fractured area that is still attached to the block. Once this is removed and the edges ground, the missing area will be a semicircle about 1/2" deep by 1 1/2" wide. The consensus is that this won't cause any problems if I go ahead with it.

Other problems:
The bore mics out to .001 larger that Kohler specs for max diameter, so it will have to be bored .010 over. The piston mics at min. diameter, so it needs replacing. I don't know yet if the crank pin can be cleaned up; its clad in aluminum from the rod failure. Of course the rod has to be replaced. It needs a valve job. I haven't measured the guides, but with everything else at max wear specs, I suspect I will need guides too. Oh, and one of the main bearings is bad.

All things considered, I'm looking for another engine to rebuild.
 
Timothy G. & Dennis F.,

What about doing a compression test to determine the amount, if any, blow-by after 15-20hrs of run time and then periodically (maybe annually?) to determine wear / condition?

Wait a minute -- did the K161/181 engines have an automatic compression relief valve - as I recall, the K301 engines had one, correct? If so, then I suppose that would prevent you from getting a good reading with a compression test...or wouldn't it matter since cranking rpm speed may not activate the relief valve?

Ryan W
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Mike,
It looks like the same failure mode as mine. .001 out of spec isn't that bad, but by the time you hone the bore to remove the scratches, you will probably be out more, but a .010 overbore will still give you 2 more chances to rebuild.

When you go picking around for used engines to rebuild, take your mike with you. Since the block you already have is rebuildable, look at any used engines you find with an eye not only for a good block to rebuild, but also for what usable parts they have inside. I've brought probably half a dozen old Kohler blocks over the years, and I would say that at least half of them are already bored .030 and worn beyond spec by the time they end up at the flea market or yard sale. People generally run these engines until they die.
 
Hi Kraig,

Not a problem. I have had this apart several times over the last 25+ years. I am going to do a lot of looking before I pull the pump. I have had to replace the cork gasket before and don’t look forward to doing that again. I will be checking all the linkages, drive shaft and general working before I do anything major. I have had good luck with this tractor and there is still many good years left.
 
John N., please report back what you find. I sure hope it's an easy and inexpensive fix for you.
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RYAN - Yes a compression test would be fine except for the ACR....Supposedly it kicks out at about 600 rpm but the starter won't turn the engine over that fast...and the ACR won't work if the engine runs in reverse....so maybe those Simplicity S/G's do have a use for Our Cub Cadets! A "Leak-down test" is also good, pump compressed air into the cylinder and see how fast it leaks down, plus the engine does not turn during the test so ACR doesn't matter. After a certain time ALL Kohlers got ACR if I remember My manual correctly. I hope the ACR on My new cam on My K321 works well otherwise My old S/G no way will turn over My new engine....
 
The weatherman was calling for 4-6" tonight, and I see now they have allready changed it to 1-2" tonight. Humm, I will just sit back and see what happens. Total snowfall is calling for 16" by Sunday.
 
John N. Lots of good suggestions coming from the group. Try using Roland B.'s checklist since it covers what everyone is saying. He covers things really good. Add footnotes from what others have said. Take it with you and go down it as you check the Cub over.

We are getting pelted with sleet right now. They are talking 5-8 inches of snow. I volunteered to work tomorrow with the clause that if it is too icy/snowy then I'm staying home. I had to take the blade off the 125 in order to fit the 782D and attachments in the garage. Looks like I'll be putting it back on tomorrow. Everyone take care out there.
 
Oh yea! These guys know what they are talking about!
Tonight: Periods of snow and sleet. Low around 25. Breezy, with a east wind between 22 and 24 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%. Total nighttime snow and sleet accumulation of 3 to 7 inches possible.

Right now we have thunder & lighting going on bigtime. With high winds.
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Supposed to get 7-14" here in Rockford through Sunday, I better go put the new belt on the snowthrower and grease it...
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52236.jpg

Weather guessers here are predicting 10-15 inches by sunday after noon.

YEAH!! is't about time
 
Charlie,
We had some of that last month. The weather on the backside of the thunderstorms was cold enough that we got snow as the storms passed over.
I just read an article yesterday where the author claimed to have improved the accuracy of weather forcasts by 4%. He tossed a coin twice. Once for wet/dry and once for warm/cold.
 
Walk through the pits at any NHRA Race and see what they use to determine cylinder/ring conditions. LEAK DOWN TESTER! You will not find a single compression tester anyhere. You can get them from places like Summit and other racing parts suppliers. They are relatively cheap. I personally have a Sun that was in my old Sun Analyzer. It is what I use to determine ring/cylinder conditions. All you need is compressed air and an adaptor that will screw into the spark plug hole. You can check all you cubs very quickly.
 
Matt,
I live in Beloit so I know what you are talking about. Unfortunately my 1650 developed a vibration the last time I used it. I guess I will be fixing it tomorrow. It only vibrates with the snowthrower lifted off the ground, no matter if the thrower is engaged or not. I thought myabe a bearing was going out in the thrower but it does it with the thrower off also. I will do a complete check of the driveline tomorrow morning. I did notice one motor bolt is missing but I don't think this is the whole source of the vibration. I just hope it is easy to fix. I will need it to move all that snow.
 
Frank,

after having my Kohler apart with the ACR, that exhaust valve does not close untill the piston is about 3/8" from TDC. So, you would not get an accurate reading if it wasn't just right.
 
I took off early from work today to go pick up a 1650 that I loaned out a year ago. It is now at home, but it has some problems. The deck reads to be a 44a Rotary Mower. I don't know what size that is, but I know one of the spindles seemed loose. I took the cover off and it looked as if a big nut is missing on one of the spindles. I haven't checked the sponsors yet to see if the nut is available. I do know when I turned the deck upside down the pulley that has the missing nut fell off. I figured I'd take a nut off of a different deck, but when I took the cover off of a deck(serial # 0320017u03566) it was a different type. Would the whole spindle interchange if I'm not available to find the nut? Also can someone tell me what size these two decks are and also what size a 422u11b deck is? I also have a deck that has a faded out i.d. plate on it. I can only make out the numbers 0320017u035666. All of the decks appear to be the same size except the 44a rotary mower. It is bigger than the others. Also I attempted to put one of the other decks on my 1650, but the center pulley on the 44a rotary mower is smaller than the others so I was not able to get enough slack in the belt to get the other decks on. Is it possible to get them on, or must I purchase a different belt? Sorry for so many questions all at once, but I want to get my 1650 running so I can use it ASAP. I won't even bring up the problems I encountered when I tried to put on a blade I purchased two years ago and never installed....
I think I got a defective blade, but it's been too long to try and get my money back. Thanks for any and all help I receive.
 

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