Archive through July 21, 2016

[snicklas]

Harry,

We had a 124 in the past, and they also have the twisted, small clutch/brake pedal.

I have a 127 (actually the only narrow frame in the fleet) and it has the larger, rubber padded clutch/brake pedal.

It was the 1x6/7 series that first received the larger pedal and rubber pad.

Also, on the float lockout pin. Our 149 had had a float lockout pin in it for the last 38 years and my 1450 for the last 9 years we've owned them. They have run a deck, snow blade, snow thrower, Brinly Plow, and tiller. We've never broken a "roll" pin anywhere in the lift system due to the float lockout. With all the listed attachments, there is some flex in the various lift connections. The lift rod on the snowblade/thrower will flex, chains on the tiller, slop in the pin holes on the plow, and the lift eyes on the deck allows flex. Even with the lockout pin, I've seen the deck go up and over something, several inches, just due to the undercarriage mounts. Also, the OP who is having the lifting issue, made the comment that he LIFTED the deck when it was against something. In the case, the float lockout would have made no difference anyway.... since it allows for down pressure, the lift works exactly the same, lockout or not. I also would be hard pressed to think that lifting one time up against something caused the pin to break. The entire system is fairly robust, and the flex in the undercarriage should have allowed the deck to tip while being lifted..... it may have already been broken, and this is "the straw"...... seeing as if this was an original pin, the newest it could be is 42 years old...... we've had to replace pins, but it has been from age and fatigue, not an "improper lift" or the lockout pin being in-place.....

 

[jbaker]

here's some of the changes made during production

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/22744/256758.html?1365370109

 

[mhomrighausen]

Jason W. Never apologize for being so enthused about Cub Cadets. Or any vintage garden tractor. Even MTD at one time built a solid and long lasting garden tractor.

Thad B. So you have the front grille bar for your 123? I don't have the screen backing but I should have a spare bar if you want. Let me know and I'll do some checking. If I find it and you want it then let me know I'll send it to you.

 

[hydroharry]

Scott - thanks for the brake pedal rubber pad info. Guess I was off by one model series.

Now, about that float lock out pin. I have to think you've been very lucky. I don't understand why you would want to use a float lockout with a mowing deck. I know those little backets that attach the subframe to the liftarms have a small area allowing the pins to slide/lift. But I'm not sure they work that well. I just believe the deck is designed to be used in a full floating operation. Also, I know those double roll or spirol roll pins used in the lift arms sure are tough, but they are even tougher to get out if bent or broke. I feel it's just best to use a deck in full float non-lockout and help avoid problems.

Jeff - hey thanks for posting that thread on production changes. Did you know the muffler on the QL actually changed 3 times? Yup, there are 3 different versions - short, medium and long exhaust pipes. For what it's worth, medium solves most of the problem.

Marlin - I don't recall a front grill bar on a 123? Isn't the grill the same as the 102/122? It's made up of several vertical steel rods about 3/8" in diameter, and a couple of the same used across it that keeps the rods in alignment? And then the light panel or blank out plate keeps the grill in place? The screens I seen appear to be just plain ole window screening.

 

[jbaker]

Harry, nope did not know that but I am glad you mentioned it. Ill add your post the thread

 

[jwiggins]

Hydro -

149 & 1250

-------------------------------------------------------


Wayne S -

Broken Rockshaft LH Arm Pin,


Outer Left Side Frame

Top Side under Tunnel Cover

Bottom, Looking up at Pin

Accessing this "PIN" from Top may be challenging w/ Dash Tower Angle directly over shaft, Also pin is located inside Frame Bends.

It appears Bottom Frame bend is notched from underneath for access and "Hammer" Swings/Taps will be very Enjoyable laying on back while "marks its spot" lightly sheens your hair-do as rust and debris falls ever so lightly in your unprotected right eye w/ each tap! Now as long as your Fingers are not Really Big like tiny tree stumps you may be able to achieve "Roll Pin" Victory without as much as one single drop of the red stuff! And Nope I ain't talkin bout HY-Tran!

I'm Just Kidding of Course, these scenarios I portray are Always how I invasion myself combined w/ Murphy's Law so just "MAYBE" someone can benefit from my own shortcomings!

CudcadetParts look up at top of page shows Rockshaft LH arm assembly PIN as Part# 715-3002 5/16 X 1-1/2 Coiled Spring

GoodLuck!!!!


------------------------------------------------------

Encyclopedia Jeff B -

OMG Information is way More than I could have Ever Hoped for, Very Good Stuff!!!!
Organized, Neat, Tidy!!!!!

Thanks for Steering me in the Right Direction!!!!!!

 

[sblunier]

Those pads also match (minus the notch) the clutch and brake pads used on 70's and 80's vintage IH big trucks.....S Series for sure!

 

[wshytle]

Scott and Harry-

First, I would never use the lock out pin while mowing. It's pretty obvious the deck should be able to float. Second, I don't think Charlie was posting that info for my individual benefit. I looked at it as though he was just posting an FYI for all and that it was interesting the instructions required 4 pages. If that's the case then maybe it was just bad timing giving people the wrong idea. Charlie???

I'm hoping my problem lies with a simple roll pin replacement. Last year I bought one of those front wheel lifts and so far it has worked great. I can now easily clean under the decks and service the blades while the deck stays installed. I should be able to access the rock shaft rather easily with the tractor at about 45*. I'll also get out the palm nailer or the air hammer. I don't care to be trying to swing a hammer while lying on my back or squatting.

And thanks Jason for the pics. I just got finished from being all into this tractor. Had I only known about the lift problem while I had the frame upside down on the saw bucks. But then that's the way my luck runs.

.

 

[jwiggins]

1974 149

Seems to "Run" just Fine!!!

 

[jchamberlin]

Jason: Sharp eyes. I waited until my oil consumption increased before I tackled changing the head gasket on my 149, but I worried needlessly. The job of replacing it was not hard, and it gave me the opportunity to do the recommended 500 Hour combustion chamber cleaning. The engine started better after putting it back together (and setting the timing), and had more power. Running full synthetic oil now, I don't even have to add any before each mowing session.

Be sure to check the cylinder head for flatness before reassembly, I think there is a FAQ about how to prepare it yourself. Again, not a hard job if you pay attention to what you're doing.

Edit: Jeff Baker: I had forgotten about your awesome list of changes in the Sandbox. I'll have to add your name to my search list when trying to track down the tiniest details of Cub Cadet history.

 

[hydroharry]

Jeff - thanks for adding it to the thread.

Steve - Mr. Plow - you must have a sharp eye to recall the pads on those 70's 80's trucks didn't have the notch.

Jason - thanks for posting pics of the pads with the notch. Now if we can just get someone to post a pic of a 1x6/7 pad mounted to the flat metal plate. The difference as I recall is the brake pedal arm has a twist at the right angle making the steel arm flat at the point where the metal plate is mounted and in doing this IH built up the mount weld so the flat plate wasn't right against the flat plate, and thus didn't require the notch. I guess when the 1x8/9 series came along they discovered a little notch in the rubber allowed the plate to be mounted right against the steel arm, and it was no longer necessary to twist the arm at the right angle bend. Probably saved them some bucks in the whole process.

However, what I thought was a little odd was they discontinued availability of the non-notched rubber pad and only the notched version was available. Obviously both fit so why not have both available? As Steve pointed out the non-notched version was being used on the truck line. I would have thought IH would continue its availability, but they didn't.

In my view it's sorta like why IH never put a drain plug on the bottom of the hydro rearends - yet they had one on the gear drive rearend. Best answer I got from one of the old experts was "It cost money that IH didn't want to spend".

And Jason - by all means please accept Jeremiah's advice to remove and decarbon your cylinder head and top of the piston, and make sure you set the timing (I highly recommend doing it by use of a timing light - just like the Kohler Service Manual). You just might be really surprised at how well your engine will start, run, and maybe even really improve the power. One thing for certain your engine will last longer. Carbon build up is death to a Kohler K engine.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Harry B. You're correct about the front grille. I just couldn't think of how to say it at the moment. The screen backing is a stiffer and slightly bigger material then window screen. I think the screen material is still available if someone would go into an industrial supply store to check. The offer still stands if Thad B. needs the front grille piece minus the screen backing.

 

[jwiggins]

Wayne S -

" I should be able to access the rock shaft rather easily with the tractor at about 45*. I'll also get out the palm nailer or the air hammer. "

--------------------------------------------------------


As Marlin H has Best Described it, "The Younger I Grow Towards Eternity",

" I don't care to be <font size="+2">trying</font> to swing a hammer while lying on my back or squatting. "

The more often I find myself thinking that Exact same thing Wayne!


But in the heat of the battle, as Murphy's law begins to creep in, I find myself in that very situation more often than Not!

UGH!!!!!

Would love to hear how it works out, Hope all goes well!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here are some (small) photos of the brake pedal on a 1x6/7 series Cub Cadet. This poor 107 was painted UPS brown by a PO. It's one of my parts Cubs, the rubber pad went to someone here that needed one a few years ago.

 

[dquillen]

Kraig, could you tell me the dimensions, thickness & corner radius size of the metal plate that holds the rubber pedal pad? I'd like to put one on my 122 & it looks like Charley sells them. Thanks

David

 

[kmcconaughey]

David C., I'll try to remember to measure it this evening or tomorrow.

 

[rfuller]

Would someone happen to have a picture of a 44C deck for decal placement?

 

[jwiggins]

Rob F -

Looks Like Keith L. Posted some good 44C pics HERE:


Might Help,,,

 

[jwiggins]

 

[kmcconaughey]

David C., 4-3/16" x 2-1/2" I forgot to measure the thickness and it's 96 degrees and humid out and I don't really want to go back outside to check but it appears to be 1/8" or 5/32" thick 3/16" at most.

There's a short length of bar stock (1/4" thick?) welded on as a spacer between the plate and pedal. I'll have to get the corner radius and actual thickness after it cools down a bit. I should also mention I think there's a wasp nest under the fender pan because as I was poking around trying to get a good angle for photos and to measure it, a few of them started flying around.