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Archive through February 09, 2017
- Thread starter ekincaid
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
15 Ft. Pounds is 180 In. Pounds
20 Ft. Pounds is 240 in. Pounds
20 Ft. Pounds is 240 in. Pounds
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Quinn G - your profile shows you having a Model 100. If that's the tractor you're working on, and it has a 10hp Kohler K241 engine then you can see on Kraig's post the torque should be 25-30 ft.lbs.
I'm not sure where you're seeing 200 in.lbs. in the manual you have but 200 in.lbs. converts to 16.66 ft. lbs. which only applies to the 8hp K181 engine.
Additionally, when torqueing your head bolts/screws make sure you follow the sequence shown in Kraig's second chart pic. Assuming your engine is the 10hp I'd suggest starting at about 15 ft.lbs. for each bolt/screw, then start the sequence again and use 20 ft. lbs. and then the 3rd and final time use 28 ft. lbs. as your final torque.
Ed C - real shame one of your drive shaft couplings really tore up your hydrostatic pump input shaft.
It's hard to say what your first steps should be. You can attempt to fix yours but no guarantee it will hold together because of the amount of shearing on the pump input shaft.
Looks to me like you need at least a new coupler and spirol pin (as well as the new filter and also fix your wiring). I suppose it's worth a try but it could just blow apart again.
Finding a parts tractor may be more ideal. I've never seen this problem before so assume it's not common and most likely the hydro pump input shaft and the coupler on a parts tractor would be in good condition, and you'd end up with some additional spare parts. However, the hydro pump trunion on the parts tractor will likely need the usual fixing up or you'll end up solving your current problem but the tractor will slow up hills, speed up down hill, or lurch/jump.
So, what's a guy to do??? Maybe see what others suggest on here while you search for your needed parts or a parts unit. Instead of a parts tractor you might be able to find a used hydrostatic pump that has the trunion already fixed, a used correct coupler (hard to figure out from the parts list), new pump gasket, new filter and new spirol pin.
You need to study up the info in your Service Manual and determine if your tractor used the coupler that also had a ball bearing for centering. That may have only been used on some of the earlier 1x9 wide frames. I don't recall if it was used on the early 1650 Quiet Line tractors.
I'm not sure where you're seeing 200 in.lbs. in the manual you have but 200 in.lbs. converts to 16.66 ft. lbs. which only applies to the 8hp K181 engine.
Additionally, when torqueing your head bolts/screws make sure you follow the sequence shown in Kraig's second chart pic. Assuming your engine is the 10hp I'd suggest starting at about 15 ft.lbs. for each bolt/screw, then start the sequence again and use 20 ft. lbs. and then the 3rd and final time use 28 ft. lbs. as your final torque.
Ed C - real shame one of your drive shaft couplings really tore up your hydrostatic pump input shaft.
It's hard to say what your first steps should be. You can attempt to fix yours but no guarantee it will hold together because of the amount of shearing on the pump input shaft.
Looks to me like you need at least a new coupler and spirol pin (as well as the new filter and also fix your wiring). I suppose it's worth a try but it could just blow apart again.
Finding a parts tractor may be more ideal. I've never seen this problem before so assume it's not common and most likely the hydro pump input shaft and the coupler on a parts tractor would be in good condition, and you'd end up with some additional spare parts. However, the hydro pump trunion on the parts tractor will likely need the usual fixing up or you'll end up solving your current problem but the tractor will slow up hills, speed up down hill, or lurch/jump.
So, what's a guy to do??? Maybe see what others suggest on here while you search for your needed parts or a parts unit. Instead of a parts tractor you might be able to find a used hydrostatic pump that has the trunion already fixed, a used correct coupler (hard to figure out from the parts list), new pump gasket, new filter and new spirol pin.
You need to study up the info in your Service Manual and determine if your tractor used the coupler that also had a ball bearing for centering. That may have only been used on some of the earlier 1x9 wide frames. I don't recall if it was used on the early 1650 Quiet Line tractors.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
That input shaft is trashed. Either find a used input shaft and replace it (and all of the gaskets in the hydro unit...this is the time-consuming option) or replace the entire pump with a good used unit. Don't even think about trying to put that back together with that same input shaft.
Thanks for the input. It really is a sad day for me! I put so much time into the 1650. I'm not sure where to go with it. I have learned a lot. This time it could be to big of a job for me. I just can't believe it happened!
Earl-thank you for your kind words,my first time out with the cc and the qa36 I'd say was a successful failure...the snow I got was like crappy(I'd like to use another)wall paper paste I got my driveway done but on the second to last pass the auger and chute clogged the ice slush and my right angle drive belt started to smoke,so i put the 125 away before I broke something irreplaceable and finished off my property and my neighbors driveway with the trusty husqvarna
hydroharry
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Matt - I was hoping to get an explanation of why you think Ed's input shaft is trashed. I thought it might be worth a try because when looking at the pics it looks like the roll pin hole is still fairly round/true and would work. It also looks like the coupler slides on way past the roll pin hole such that it would be kept will in alignment by securing with the roll pin (the original coupler has a chip broke out and requires replacement). The tip of the pump input shaft is chewed off but still appears to have a lot of steel to provide holding strength to the area of the roll pin.
Can you provide an explanation for your position?
Ethan - please don't consider it a failure. Consider it a learning experience. Slushy snow is somewhat known to clog up with chute. You do want to operate the thrower at full throttle (rpms) but use your tractor hydro speed to control your feed of snow into the auger. This is where any rust on the auger/chute is NOT your buddy and helps the clogging. Sometimes it's just the snow. I had really heavy slushy stuff I could only thro about 2 feet, and I had to keep the tractor at about 2 mph or I'd just clog'r'up.
If you get some time and have a nice open field some place take your 125 and thrower out for some practice. You can't expect to be an expert on your 1st attempt. Remember, it's a "single" stage thrower. Your HuskaVarnee is almost certainly 2 stage and handles slush a little better.
Ed C - don't lose heart here buddy. It's not for certain yet what you need to do. I still lean toward replacing the coupler and roll pin to start with. Heck, if it blows up again then you know you have to replace the pump.
If you have to replace the hydro pump it's awhole lot easier than on your wide frame rather than a narrow frame. 4 bolts are all that hold the pump on (after you disconnect the linkage and the drive shaft - and in your case the driveshaft is already disconnected). Also, there are some other CC owners in CT that may be able to do this job for you if your somehow limited.
Can you provide an explanation for your position?
Ethan - please don't consider it a failure. Consider it a learning experience. Slushy snow is somewhat known to clog up with chute. You do want to operate the thrower at full throttle (rpms) but use your tractor hydro speed to control your feed of snow into the auger. This is where any rust on the auger/chute is NOT your buddy and helps the clogging. Sometimes it's just the snow. I had really heavy slushy stuff I could only thro about 2 feet, and I had to keep the tractor at about 2 mph or I'd just clog'r'up.
If you get some time and have a nice open field some place take your 125 and thrower out for some practice. You can't expect to be an expert on your 1st attempt. Remember, it's a "single" stage thrower. Your HuskaVarnee is almost certainly 2 stage and handles slush a little better.
Ed C - don't lose heart here buddy. It's not for certain yet what you need to do. I still lean toward replacing the coupler and roll pin to start with. Heck, if it blows up again then you know you have to replace the pump.
If you have to replace the hydro pump it's awhole lot easier than on your wide frame rather than a narrow frame. 4 bolts are all that hold the pump on (after you disconnect the linkage and the drive shaft - and in your case the driveshaft is already disconnected). Also, there are some other CC owners in CT that may be able to do this job for you if your somehow limited.
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