• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through June 04, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.


Well-known member
Jul 22, 2007
Harry Bursell
Jesse N - Hey first off here's a BIG OLE Welcome to the IH CC Forum. Your 1450 is one of my favorites.
Now, on your question, I'd forget about the hammer. That tool just gets you in trouble. You might need the screw driver - BUT you don't want to go messing up your dash either. Stick with me here cause this is gonna be a long recommendation.

Something must have happened to the spring steel catch that's held onto the hood support (which is bolted to the dash tower). I'm hoping you can at least open the hood a smiggen (an 1") and maybe get your screw driver in there to push on the latch. BUT do not go prying around such that you break something.

If that doesn't work or you can't raise the hood a smiggen well next thing you could do is remove the 4 bolts holding the lower cast grill housing to the frame. Remove them very carefully since the whole hood along with the upper and lower grill housing will normally nearly fall off on it's own without the bolts. Also, make sure the wires for the lights are disconnected or you lower the grill housing and hood assembly carefully to not break any wires.

Hope this works for ya. Let us know what you find and bugger'd up the hood latch.

Keith O - I sorta figured that spool of wire pic got in there by mistake, but it was a good one and fooled me into thinking it could be a switch knob
Anybody know right off the top of their head what type of 6 foot flourescent bulbs a cub cadet dealership sign takes? having a little snag here in my plan...
John - looks like you were salvaging a few parts from an IH CC Model 106. I'll give you $20 plus shipping for those parts and you don't even have to field test them. Heck, you'll make 100% and probably have enough to buy the wheels (tell the guy you'll take care of the tire disposal). By the way, I'm pretty certain those disc brakes are a different style than used on the 1450 series (assuming your 1450 had the external brakes).
John B. More than likely 6 foot 2 pin High Output T-12 fluorescent. A part number would look like f72T12
Hydro, I looked for the switch for my #1 125 lights but I didn't find it. Reason being is that I have the #1 125 torn apart for a refurbish and it's in boxes and scattered about my shed. I think the pedestal is up in the rafters with the switch still installed. I'll have to do a more extensive search for it perhaps this evening. The light switch on my #2 125 and on my Original are both like the 4th photo down in Keith's post.
KEITH, HARRY -You guys need to do what I did last winter, get "New EYES". Had cataract surgery on one eye, working on getting the appt for the other eye now. I went from 20-150 in the bad eye (legally blind) to better than 20-25 without glasses post surgery. Best thing I've done in a long time!

Ohhh and that spool of wire COULD be a switch... aka "Hot Wire" the starter & ignition.... for those so inclined.

HARRY - I'm sure you know this, but IH used three different manufacters for their external disk brakes, parts are NOT interchangable between mfg's, but the whole brake assembly can be swapped.
Hydro Harry- No, I have not tested the parts. I just safely put them away this morning. I honestly have no use for them what so ever, other than from a collector's stand point. If it is the light switch, solenoid switch, and ignition switch.

Thank you for the information about what tractor they came from, I had not got that far.

side note: Going to clean up the 1450 this afternoon. Got dirty down on the farm yesterday. I still have not found a cure for the rattle/vibrating noise from the panel spring that stretches across the muffler box of the Kohler K321 AQS. Though, it won't make noise all the time. I'm limited of resources because of the heat. Maybe a new spring can be added to my up-coming order. I guess only in a perfect world,....!

Dennis F- Was there a preference of type of external brake caliper set-ups that were favored as being better? The spring tension on the model 106 Cub Cadet seems logical. I should go get the remainder of it, and swap the bad hydro in the 1250 for the all-gear drive and come up with another operating International Cub Cadet garden tractor.
JOHN - All three mfg's brake assemblies would have had to be approved by IH engineering for performance & durability. Any of the three would have been fine.
Jesse N,

Are your side panels installed on your 1450? Hydro Harry's recommendation of removing the 4 bolts c/t the lower front grill casting will be difficult to do if you have the side panels on. If your hood is stuck, something is causing it to jamb. Are you able to open it at all? Sometimes you have to grab hood on both sides with both hand and give it a good hard pull to get the catch to release. If that don't work then remove the screws c/t the side panels and steering tower and then loosen the 4 bolts down at the bottom of the steering tower c/t the frame to see if you can move the tower aft enough to get the hood open. Hope this helps. PS: Welcome to the forum.
Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos = your #1-125 is in the rafters? Dang

Dennis - no I didn't know there were 3 different manufacturers for the brakes. I knew there were several different styles and wondered why IH kept changing them.

John C - I was somewhat jokingly making that offer, so you would know those parts are worth more. Also, I wouldn't go switching the rearend from a 106 to a 1250 due to a faulty pump. There are many used hydro pumps around and think you could get one for about the price that guy quoted you for the tires (or maybe slightly more).
Now, about your noise from the panel spring on the 1450 - are you sure the noise isn't really from your muffler box? It's notorious for vibrating loose.

Ron S (under edit) - yes Jesse will certainly have trouble removing the 4 bolts on the lower grill casting if the side panels are still installed. I do like your recommendation about grabbing both sides of the hood and giving it a good jerk upwards (I would have thought he might have tried that already but it's often the way you have to open the QL hood).
John, Rattles could be a lot of things. Busted or loose hood hinge comes to mind. I always tighten mine up in a vise. Just clamp 1/2 of it in so the pin part is laying on top of one of the jaws with the open part facing up and then add a little more "pinch" with a punch and hammer to each tab on then repeat on the other half.

Loose and missing hardware in the muffler box is another source. Your side panels won't come off if they are wired together or the spring is hooked up. Have you had the hood up before? A touch of grease on the catch when you do get it open will help a lot. Just don't haul it backwards on your trailer unless you want to replace the upper grill housing also!!LOL.

I always load mine facing forward or sideways and always secure the hood with a bungee hooked to the hood crossmember.
Quiet Line? More like "Rattle Line"!!!!!!

The 82 series are the real "Quiet" line machines!!!!

.......consider the pot stirred!!!!
Hydro, well, certain parts of the #1 125 such as the smaller items are in the rafters. The frame, front axle, and fenders are in the lean-to. The engine and rear end are in the shed proper. After I looked through some photos it appears that I did remove the light switch. I believe I know which box it's in that is up in the rafters. I'll check it out this evening.
David Schwandt- I'm glad I don't make it a habit to toss away my used/old IH parts-anything! I did find a nice hinge, and made that repair. That would explain why I have extra 1/8th inch holes drilled through the muffler box tin, and not the aluminum frame/muffler support as this is a like new part, where the tin is not { oddly, the hole locations seem like factory locations }. I had used a parts 1250, and a 1450 to make one good 1450. Thank you!

Hydro Harry- Thank you for your honesty, a little more will always help! In turn, I will be glad to help a collector out! Though it's not right to claim I have functioning parts when I don't know for sure. We'll see.

Thank you for the gear/hydro transmission recommendation. What I'm in it for is to hoard what ever parts I can find for my 1450 {I should not have to touch my 72 for another 50+ years no kidding}.

What I enjoy doing is pulling these garden tractors from the scrap heap, and saving what I need specifically for my garden tractors, helping other owners out, and saving the remainder of parts for the future.

Dennis F- That makes perfect sense, I should have known, but at the same time it was a curious question to me. Thank you!
Steve, Mr. Plow - I'm guessing there are some Eastern Diamond Back "Rattle Lines" back your way and they DO BITE!