Archive through April 23, 2007

[kweaver]

Karl - A True rear PTO is driven via the transmission shaft. A 147 is a hydro so it has no transmission. Now, the right angle gear box as for the tiller and snow blower is also refered to as a pto so that may be what your book is reffering to.

Allen - Yes, that's how you use a rear mount tiller.

 

[digger]

Allen S.

 

[digger]

Hey you guys!
I just look old, I'm really 29 and holding.
Well part of me is anyway.

 

[kweaver]

Charlie - QUIT holding that part or nobody will shake your hand !

 

[aschumacher]

Thankyou Ken, didnt know how to word it nicely

 

[twwhiting]

Well my Transaxle has siezed up...'61 Original. Clutch had been failing, and I broke the right transaxle fork. I stopped by the local Cub dealer, the part is $65 + labor, he said I could save 2 hours labor if I just bring him the transaxle, and clutch assembly rather than the entire tractor.

Is this a major undertaking? I am by no means a complete newbie, but I'm no gear head either. Would I be better off getting the entire tractor down there, even though I can't seem to get it into neutral now.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I love my Original and I don't want to part it out, or scrap it.

Thanks.
Todd

 

[kweaver]

Todd - I'm guessing that you mean the shifting forks ?
When you take off the top cover it'll look similar to this pic (hopefully better condition). The 2 circles are the detents and there is a spring under the ball. You'll need to be careful when taking it apart as the springs will go airbourne. Really there's no big deal other than that about taking it out yourself. Just don't drop one of the balls or springs down inside.

 

[ksimpson]

Thanks Ken, I really appreciate your and terry's and everyones help on here.

 

[jcrews]

Hey Ken my eyes aren't what they used to be, the bolt has 6 lines and a triangle running between two of the lines ,what ever that is, the new ones have 9 lines. But the 104 is runnung normally now.Thanks

 

[glippert]

Digger - Thanks again for this great site, especially the FAQs and Cubfaqs. I was able to easily adjust my electric pto, even though I previously didn't even know they needed adjustment. (My enlightenment came when I detected a "hot" smell after running my tiller for a short time - first time using it after moving the pto to a new engine.) Can you imagine how much money forum members save by getting all this free advice? Thanks to all!

 

[digger]

Lip,
Thanks for the kind words, BUT, this site was great long before I came along and we have Bryan,Bob and many others for that.

 

[tcbusch]

Did a little tilling tonight. I think I might try plowing the rest of the new garden first then tilling again. The tiller was bucking and kicking like an ornery old mule. Maybe the old ball and chain will take some pictures for you guys tomorrow.

 

[mmiller]

Graeme,
I can't see any yellow down there from here in Virginia, but I'd sure be happy to come down there some time and go cub hunting with ya.

 

[hdshine]

Folks,
Thanks to all of you that replied to my question as to what to do about my thrown rod in my CC126.

A couple of weekends ago I drove the 5 hrs (under a tornado warning) back up to the river to see what I could do. After hand mowing/weedeating 700 feet of river bank I had time to pull the engine. Yeap. While draining the oil several pieces of metal fell out. After removing the oil pan I understood, for the first time, what power 12 horses has. The rod was in about 20 pieces. I slid the engine under the shack and will grate it and bring it back to Houston. In the next few months I'll start on it.

Yeah, I've decided to rebuild it. Get ready for lots of questions. Like, how do you get the forward engine bolts out of the frame?

Dave

 

[digger]

Dave S.
The first thing you just gotta do is go to the FAQ's above and download the Kohler manuals.
As far the engine bolts go, tilt the tractor as far as it will go to one side so the axle is as low and it will go and take that bolt out, then repeat on the other side.

 

[kweaver]

Lip - Oh cointreau there, it's NOT free! As payment you too must in turn help someone needing assistance! ... <font size="-2">and put up with stalkers </font>

Not to forget either that it's the sponsor's that pay the light bill.

Todd - I forgot to mention that you have to remove the front parts on the trans to slide the shifting rod forward to get the fork off. It's been a few years since I took that cruddy looking trans a part. Memory is kinda slow ... need a new RAM installed

 

[glee]

I took off the rear cover(where you add the hy-tran) of a 1650. I scraped off the old gasket and some silicon looking stuff. I did not put any silicon on the new gasket. I just bolted it on and refilled with hy-tran. It is leaking. Should I have used some sort of gasket sealant? Or is there a certain torq I was supposed to tighten it to? If I loosen it to start over- do I need a new gasket?

 

[kweaver]

Gary - The cover is most likely warped. If you take it back off now the gasket will be okay barring you don't tear it. Put a thin coat of silicon on it but not enough to get it inside the cavity when it bulges out. A good snug wrist torque should be sufficent. I prefer the gray silicon but blue or red will be good for it too.

 

[glippert]

Good point(s) Ken - pay it forward and support the sponsors! I know I'll support/buy from the sponsors. Don't know that I'll ever have any knowledge to add that you more experienced members don't already cover, but I'll be ready to put in my $.02 at any given moment.

 

[hcole]

well boys i finally got a creeper for the ol' 100 ,put it on today and man am i happy nothin more beutiful than a crawlin cubby,wonder if i'll need weights to plow? also,to the moderators,i dont know what a url is thats why i left blank on app.(i'm an illiterate)