• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through April 02, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Ray, yes the 2A tiller is for wide frames, You show a narrow frame in your profile. But as for the tiller you will need a hydro or a gear drive with a creeper for the tiller to work decent my .02
 
Beautiful work Marty!!!
jawdrop.gif
 
I'm interested in any tips for painting my 7, 10, and 12 hp Kohler engines for the cub restorations that are in the works. Are certain engine parts best left unpainted? I'd like these to look as sharp as possible when they're finished... Any advice from others would be appreciated!
 
Steve,
I wouldn't paint the cooling fins or head if they are in good condition. If you do paint them, go LIGHT because the fins help dissapate the heat!
As for the colors, look at as many old photos as you can find to see what color the parts were originally. Some parts were different colors according to their age. For example, some starter generators were yellow where others were black.
thumbsup_old.gif
 
Thanks, Marty ... and what a terrific job on your 70. Yours certainly gives me something to aim for!
 
Was removing the front axle pin on the 1650 tonight to see about fixing the play in it. Is what I'm saying next typical?

I removed the pin and see it is pretty wore opposite end of the roll pin hole. Put the pin in the axle only and it seems tight. Put it in the frame holes with out the axle and it wiggles pretty good. Is it safe to say just buy a new axle pin or do/should I do something with the axle and maybe replace the shaft collars that the axle pin goes though the frame? Pretty sure a lot of you guys have been in this situation before.

Thanks,

Rob
 
Thanks for your help, everyone. I was able to find a throttle shaft kit a couple towns over while running some errands. I also made sure the governor was right and adjusted the valves. They were both kinda loose. I was going to scrape the carbon, but I got a bad feeling about the head bolts so didn't invite trouble.

The good news is that the surging under load at high throttle is gone! But the throttle shaft is a bit hard to move, so the it seems really touchy. Maybe I need to play with the cable. And maybe the governor isn't able to overcome that throttle resistance because it seems like that 14HP really roars. It actually scares me a little. I let it idle with some Mystery Oil in the gas, hoping that it'll "break in."

MARTY - great looking 70. I have a rusty fellow that I hope I can get looking as good as yours.
 
Rob Fuller - Yes, that wear on the front axle pin is pretty typical. If the pin is worn like you describe, you'll want to replace it. The sponsors above carry them. I just bought one from CC Specialties recently. The second part of the fix is to squeeze the axle "channel" back together, so the axle fits snugly inside, as described in the FAQs.

Now would be a good time to review the FAQs at the top of this page, directly below the sponsor buttons. When you get there (and finish reading all the FAQs) click on Charlies FAQs for a bunch more useful information, specifically, number 80. How do I adjust/tighten up my front axle?

It's possible that hole in your axle is worn, too, but the fix shown in the FAQ did a good job on my 1250 and 1450.

Good Luck & Happy Easter!
 
Marty,

Good looking 70 there. I really appreciate when someone takes the time to redo a 70. It is so tempting during a resto to find a 10hp and turn it into a 100, but the 70s are charming little tractors in their own right.
 
Thanks everyone for the comments. I hope to have some nice before and after photos this week when the 70 is completed.
bubbly.gif
Hope everyone had a good Easter.
 
hope everybody had a great Easter. is there anyway to fix a missing hood latch spring with out buying another hood? this hood rattles like crazy. it makes me laugh that these are called quite lines. i have seen some hoods for sale so if i have to i will. i know it is just spot welded on. and is there any weatherstripping that goes around all the panels to quite them down?
 
i have a question

if you have a tractor that has no motor and just want to put something together could you install a motor that has a gear step down on the motor ?

basically just have that setup as apposed to a creeper gear?

thanks
 
Parts Lookup = a tool you can use without getting your hands dirty. I have partstree.com bookmarked.
Chris: good luck with that one.
Now: It was overdue to put a new head gasket on Yorkie. Shouldn't the valves rotate when I crank her over at this stage? They don't.
187710.jpg

P.S. I changed out of long john's today.
smile.gif
 

Latest posts

Back
Top