Archive through October 15, 2007

[rrschmitt]

Mike F,

The symptoms you describe having just changed your S/G sounds like you need to set the polarity on it to be in sync with the voltage regulator to get things working again. It is fairly easy to do with a jumper wire and touching two terminals on the voltage regulator but I don't remember which ones right now and I don't have my Service Manual handy. I'm sure someone can post the intructions here or you can do a search in the archieve. WARNING: You have to jump the correct terminals or you can damage your S/G and electrical system. Just momentarily touch them and there will be a small spark.

 

[nblack]

I thought he might have been listing something from Guy Louderbacks place...

 

[nblack]

Ron, Mike, the procedure is to polarize the generator, and what is to be done is to MOMENTARILY touch a jumper wire from the Armature of the S/G to the Batt terminal of the V/R. I personally want more data on the system though.

 

[nblack]

Ooops! Armature = 'A' terminal in previous post. Brain knows, fingers don't always follow.

 

[jcrews]

Hello
Does anyone have a picture of the bar connection on the hydro lift of the rear lift for a quiet line series ? Thanks

 

[digger]

James,
Lets get into a little more detail here, LOL
What do ya need that this pic doesn't show?

 

[sblunier]

Charlie,

Wow, you went old school with that pic....I took that pic of my 129 Wednesday, July 21, 1999...a day or two ago!!!! It now wears 10.50 Titans and a loader!!!

I ordered one of the 2200# wagon running gears from Northern Sat. Need to get a hayrack deck made for it before Halloween for a big party my wife is having for the neighborhood kids.....hay rides for all.... I love it when your wife suggests that you buy more attachments. I'll post some pics when I get it assembled and the deck built.

 

[gcoleman]

Can anyone get a hold of Chris W? I've been tryin 3 days to get stuff ordered from him, and it isn't "On the site" stuff (special order...)
not to be annoying, but you know me...

 

[ppimentel]

Hi Everyone,

Not sure how the front pto bearing & collar really work. I know how they go together but I just can't seem to comprehend how it works. I know that the bearing fits snug inside the PTO housing and that the collar gets put on the front of the bearing and tighened on the shaft but....the collar and the bearing still float on each other. I know I'm missing something but what? The set screws in the PTO don't touch the bearing because the bearing is to far inside the PTO housing so what makes it work ?

Please HELP me to understand.....

 

[rpatton]

Glenn C if you were trying to get a hold of Chris for 3 days 2 of the days would have been the weekend ,maybe he was closed ? As far as I know he still works full time also .

 

[jcrews]

Hi Charlie
I wasn't clear I need to see the Front end of the bar (in the middle)where it connects to the lift mechanism. Thanks

 

[mdomenic]

Paul, the lock collar is rotated to the right. There is a hole on the collar that you stick a punch in and hit it with a hammer to set it tight. Then use the set screw to hold it. Use a small amount of anti-sez on the shaft prior to instalation. This will save a lot of frustration for the next guy!

 

[digger]

Paul & Matt,
It's in the FAQ too.
http://cubfaq.com/bearingcollar.html

 

[mbounds]

Thanks Charlie...Matt & Paul....Pay close attention to #4. "To the right" advise is incorrect!! Punch tighten in the direction of engine rotation!! On a Kohler that is CCW !! Then tighten the set screws. Removal is the reverse as shown. The advise on the anti-sieze is right on.....Use it on the set screws also, but I would not use it on the locking rings of the collar.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul, here is a cutaway view of a PTO clutch, perhaps this will help explain how it works.

 

[kweaver]

James - Here's a pic of my 129.

It's quite since there's no engine in it

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[jthompson]

Sort of off topic but here goes: Fall is my favorite time of year but unfortunately I have LOTS of trees in my yard which means LOTS of leaves. I have tried mowing then picking them up with a sweeper, which works, but the amount of leaves is just almost too much for a sweeper. I have seen these "tow behind" leaf vacs that have a chute from the deck to a blower/grinder then to a dump box. I think one of these is my best bet but don't really want to spend $1500 without getting some input on how well they work. Anyone use one of these?

ON TOPIC- I will be using a CC 126 for the job.

 

[kmcconaughey]

FWIW, I just mow the leaves to chop them up and spread them around the rest of the yard then leave them to break down, free fertilizer IMO. But then the trees are maples, ash and birches, their leaves break down quickly. If I had Oaks, I'd be collecting the leaves and placing them in the garden then I'd mow them to chop them up and till them in.

 

[lbaker]

Jim= I had a 5hp B&S that blew them as you describe. Worked great!! I found if I mowed first, to chop leaves up, trailer couple hold a LOT more and less time dumping. I did finally get a ztr with a large grass catcher.