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Archive through November 13, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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junderwood

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 2, 2002
Messages
246
displayname
John Underwood
Jerry,

That is good information to know. I don't think the CC's ever had float. I know the greenies that used the same or very similar valves had detent look float on one spool. I have purchased some similar valve from Surplus Center that were Cessna I believe for around those prices too.

Are those prices a deal you are getting because of your work or are those a pretty common street price?
 
John,

That's my pricing from Motion Industries through work. It may not be the price for a walk-in customer, but it should be the common wholesale. I don't get OEM pricing on this stuff. The other interesting thing is that if you look in the catalog there's a special order page that allows you to spec a valve with detented float positions on the outside spools. I haven't checked pricing on that option, but I'll bet it's not unreasonable because these are all non-stock valves. My lead time is 16 days.

Jerry
 
JOHN, JERRY - With a little quick talking it shouldn't be hard to get some sort of deal thru Motion Ind. There's SO many levels of pricing with them. And it seems like every company I've worked for that had accounts with them for parts for assembly got different discounts from them. Some were on the order of 40-50% off list on some product lines.
 
my 128 with the stalling problem.

still stalling when hot. now it stalls when warm. still will not start for a minute or two after stalling.
this time, when i held the timing light on for a minute, i noticed the timing light skips a flash or two. it is not a steady strobe. and, the timing mark will drop out of the sight window for a second, then come back.
watching the points in a dark shed, i am not seeing a steady spark. it breaks rhythm.
i have tried two different tachs on it, one the dial with needle type, and the other digital. dial type constantly bounces from 1000- 2000 R's digital holds steady at 1200 R's.
both were made for cars, so maybe they wont work on a cub.
timing light is also for a car.

i am thinking of replacing the pin that drives the points.
carb, coil, wiring harness, points, condenser,air filter,spark plug, all replaced. carb is adjusted to factory specs.
there is an in line fuel filter that is for a car that some have suggested might be the problem, but it was doing this before i added the filter.
muffler has a leak that some have suggested might be causing problems.
it seems to me that something that works when cold, but fails when hot, is changing the timing or interrupting the points when it gets hot.

i am going to go back out now and try video taping it running, to see if that helps anyone figure this out. i will see if i can catch the timing light and points out of rhythm.

so, any guesses?
 
Jerry,

Thanks, I'll have to see what the local MI says when I get to my projects. They tend to be kind of lazy but we'll see.
 
Frank
An inline fuel filter designed for use with an automotive fuel pump, will normally not flow enough fuel in a gravity flow fuel system to keep from starving the engine. In other words, if you want to use an inline filter, then use one designed for a gravity system.........or don't use one. Just because the engine stalled before you installed the filter does not mean the filter is not the problem or at least part of the problem. With everything that has been changed (provided the changes were done correctly), you may have fixed the original problem and created another similar problem.
 
Frank, I,m mainly a lerker here but...Changing push pin sounds good. Did you see if the movable point is really free or erraticly binding? I watched both videos and understand you concern about the erratic behavior. Is that a high quality timing light? I had a low cost one that would work like that.
The last thing is, if the engine sounds are the ones that go with the flashes, I have to wonder why the engine sounds like it has a constant rhythm. You and other members, close your eyes and just listen to the sound.
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Allen Schumacher (Aschumacher) -

movable part of the point is free.
timing light was about 100.00, forget model. but i would say it is at the higher end of the scale.
engine sounds. forgot to mention i noticed the same thing. erratic points or timing light should cause erratic engine R's and sounds. engine sounds steady. which is why i was wondering if maybe it is the timing light. i might be adjusting the timing to the wrong mark.
 
Paul Bell (Pbell)-
it would be a waste of everybody's time for me to argue the in line filter issue. while i disagree with you and everybody else, i will remove the filter and keep it off until this problem is resolved.
that way, we can cross at least one possible cause off the list.
 
Frank,
I realize the coil is new. Have you tried several coils and get the same results? I am just wondering if you have installed a defective coil. It is a strange problem and I too viewed Youtube. I have also installed faulty, new parts that almost drove me to the funny farm.
Just a thought, Wayne
 
Hi.everyone, I'm Jeff. I just purchased a Cub Cadet 86. Runs real well, but it has no accessories on it. I don't know anything about a cub cadet, first one I ever owned. Could anyone tell me what accessories can be used on this and also where I could get a book on cub cadet 86s. Thanks.
 
first of all welcome! and second i believe youve got your self a low production model cub, during that era low hp cubs wernt in a very high demand, everyone wanted the 12,14, and 16 hp cubs, but dont let that little K-181 8hp fool you! its got plenty of power compared to todays motors, its got tons of torque! as for attachments, to name a few,
snow plow
snow thrower
mower decks
single bottom plow
tiller
box blade
back fill blade
sickle bar mower (hard to find)
to run certin implaments you may need a 3-point hitch or a creeper, thers also tons of other attachments, too many to list! manuals are available through binder books (one of our sponsers) at the top of the page, theres also online books through this site but i forget the link, im sure one of the moderators will chime in and post it!
oh ya i almost forgot
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P.S. i know my spelling sucks!
 
Wayne Shytle (Wshytle)

i do not have another coil. well, not really. the one it came with, the last owner broke one of the terminal studs and just soldered the wire to it, sort of. one of those repairs that works, until you touch it. or hit a bump. i will have to check to see if i can get it wired long enough just to try it.
 
Jeff Holland (Jholland)-

Wecome to the forum. I see we have another NC member now and that's great. There are several "cubbers" here in NC. That's a good find for a first cub. If you have any doubts as to whether you will become addicted you'd better run now. The more you learn about these wonderful machines the more machines you want to own. It's a fine hobby and the guys here will help with most questions as long as the topic fits the forum.

Good luck with the 86 and again, welcome,
Wayne (PS: I'm over in Chapel Hill)
 
Frank S.,
Have you tested the coil?
(I didn't go back over your earlier posts to see if you mentioned doing that or not.)

Anyway, if you haven't tested it - grab your Ohm meter and test the primary and secondary windings.
Even if it is brand new, as Wayne S. indicated, new parts CAN be bad.
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Ryan Wilke
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hay guys I am still fighting with the spring assist on my 122 restoration. One end of the spring clamps to the draw bar. and the other end bolts to ? ps. it is #6 in the pic Thanks for the halp.
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181105.jpg
 
frank snerd,
So what are you wanting to fix? If the engine is running smooth, put away the timing light. Fix that exhaust leak and see if the engine still stalls.
 
mike morrison,
See the white spot on the left rear? Thats it.
181107.jpg
 
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