• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through March 15, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
And who says Big companies don't have a sense of humor anymore!!!!
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Good afternoon, Charlie, and thanks for visiting our website.

They say a picture is worth a 1,000 words…..well, I have an original 1969 CLB 60 Instructions and Parts List Manual. It is only about 11 pages thick, but I figure it ought to be worth at least a couple of grand! Of course, I am kidding. If you will provide me with your complete mailing address, I will copy the manual and send it to you.
Most of the parts are still available for your machine (many of which we make) so I am sure we can help you with your replacement parts needs. Once you get the manual, just let us know which parts you are in need of and we can provide you with a quotation.
If you have any questions, please let me know.

Best Regards,
Flail-Master

Mike Arnold
General Manager<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 
Brian- a 'true' 5.5kw generator should have no trouble huffin' over a 'true' 2hp air compressor... 5.5kw @ 120v should be 45A or so. A 'true' 2hp single-phase motor should draw about 30A, mebbie surge to 40A starting. My Onan CCK is 'rated' at 5kw, but I've loaded it to almost twice that before the thing even hinted at being loaded... I've started my rotary phase converter from it!
thumbsup.gif
They sure don't build 'em like they used to. (it's better part of 450lbs!)

Tim- I recently rebuilt the K241 in my 109, and when I reinstalled it, I stuck a temporary muffler on it, and (since I didn't have any) ordered some replacements for 109, Loader-Mutt, and my dad's 127. Of course, I changed it, and stuck a new S/G on it and darnit if the 109 didn't start after-firing on me... blew the armpit right out'a my sweater. Thought something was seriously wrong, but couldn't adjust it out.

Next day, I changed the muffler on dad's 127... didn't start it, but my dad ran it a few days later, and it started after-firing. Exact same thing happened on Loader-Mutt.

Well, I think the muffler's internal structure may at least contribute to the situation a bit. I know that the mufflers I got were aftermarket (not IH or Kohler-labeled), and they feel a little lighter... perhaps they don't cool the same way, or develop a 'hot spot' in some location. In the meantime, it's scarin' the pants right off Nick, so I'm gonna hafta find some way to resolve it before takin' him plowin'.
 
Johnny "S",
You might want to post that in the "IH Cub Cadet Hauler" section. To bad I don't need anything hauled up here, you're more than likely going right by my place!
 
John S., just curious, how far into Wisconsin will you be? You should have scheduled your trip to coincide with PDV9......
 
PSA,
There seems to some interest in Plow Day Videos over in the PD section, so for those of you that have not wondered over there!

If you guys want more Plow Day Videos!!!!

Kraig will fix you right up. I promise you will watch them over and over.
CLICK HERE
BUY BONDS! BUY VIDEOS!
26380.gif
 
Since it's the begining of the season and it attaches to a Cub (to stay on topic
happy.gif
)...


I just stoppped by Home Depot to pick up something and saw they had a Brinly Harrow on clearance for $1.00
yikes.gif
(normally $149)!!! and it was the only one in stock around here, otherwise I would've grabbed a bunch!

(Message edited by rmunday on March 17, 2005)
 
Have any of the engine gurus here (David K. Don V.) invented or know if a solid state points replacement kit exists for the Kohlers???

I'm looking for a solid state module to replace the points AND condensor. I do not mean the points saver kit either....
 
The man said,"You can have it if you haul it away, but You gotta take everything." All I knew was ,it was a cub cadet,and it was mostly in one piece.
The search engine brought me here, and Mr. Mcmeen had pitty on me for not knowing how many m's are in .com, So I'll try my first question.
It's about manuals.
In the automotive world, there is a thing called a Hollander interchange manual. Is there a comparative refference for I.H equipment that would help with combatting the "NLA" problem?
Am still reading Other manuals and archives, but haven't run across this anywhere. Thanks, Curt
 
}I got my 782 out today, put the mower deck on, and when I engaged the PTO it run for about 4 seconds and then blew the 20 amp fuse. Checked the wiring out and didn’t anything shorted out so I put in a new 25 amp fuse and the PTO engaged and I mowed the lawn. I noticed as I was mowing the ammeter showed about 15 amps discharge. Does anyone have any ideas what would make it show 15 amps discharge when the PTO is engaged?

Larry
yummy.gif
 
Can anyone tell me from looking if this creeper will fit a 124, in other words are all narrow frame creepers the same?
26389.jpg
 
Mike >
If memory serves me all narrow frame creepers are the same except thoses for the Orginal's which only fit Orginal's.
 
am in the prosess of restoring my 1200, and need a little advice....with the internal brakes, i have remove the arm in font of the gear reduction as it was seized, and i want to remove the pads as those parts are also seized. the manual says; to just remove, i presume that they just push out,towards the front, but being seized , they might just reqire more force and some penatrating fluid. is this right?
screwloose.gif


thanks in advance.....
 
Ken U.,

I have not found a conversion module that replaces the breaker points in the Kohler K-series engines using battery and coil ignition. The PointSaver is an attempt to get one "half way there". I've been working on a solid-state sensor to replace the breakers and that would trigger the PointSaver, but cost is presently prohibitive. The most economical method, especially for this specific application, is to retain the mechanical breakers. The low cyclic frequency combined with reduced current handling that the PointSaver affords, extends the operating life and reliability of the points to effectively match that of the engine.
 
Ken - yep but I never have got around to putting a crank trigger on a Kohler to try it. (not got a running one on the bench)It's a homegrown circuit that ran a 650 2-cyl Honda motorcycle. A magnet would need to be mounted to the crank or flywheel to trigger a Hall-Effect switch. I't be firing every 180º.

David - this one can be made for around $5 ;)

Curtis - nope , be nice though. Keep reading ! Most everything that's NLA is being made by someone around here or will be in the future looks like.

(Message edited by kweaver on March 17, 2005)
 
Hey Shirtman, if you are lurking out there.
Do you have more photos of the backhoe looking thing in your profile? I did a search and came up with nothing. I could have sent a direct email but thought others might be interested too.

Bryan,
You know what would be cool? If there was a image search that would show thumbnails. Then you could quickly look at the thumbnails and click on the picture you want to look at. Sort of like the google image search function. How about pounding out some scripting. Unless of coarse you have something better to do.
biggrin.gif
<< me
coffee.gif
<< you?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top