Archive through March 15, 2005

[digger]

Also,
Rumor has it that there's gonna be some great items for the drawings, Knife sets, 50 Cub Cadet hats, More Brinly stuff, Kohler repair manuals, T-shirts and more and more and more.

BUT, you'll have to be there to get'um!

 

[tturner]

Steve B.-
Could you post some pictures of how you installed your oil pressure goodies on your 782??? Thanks abunch Tyler

 

[pscilipote]

I have a CC122. I am seeking a detailed description of how to re-install the front PTO.
Specifically:
What is the position of the bearing - flush w the shaft or set out/in (and if so, by how much)?
How far must the locking collar be from the front pulley that has the clutch mushroom(?) on it?
Where do the set screws fit - onto bearing, behind (and if so, how tight must they be)?
Where do the anti-rattle(?) clips go?

Why?
Installed with screws on the bearing and the unit was loose and did not sit well in the mushroom.
Installed with the screws behind the bearing and tight (probably on the locking collar) and the PTO will not disengage.
Have a loud, almost slapping sound as the engine idles and that lessens when I give it more power. Research has led to it possibly being the lack of the anti-rattle clips…but not sure how these fit onto the unit or where.

Thank you.

 

[sblunier]

Peter S.

You really should have a manual with that many questions.

 

[digger]

Peter S,
I think you might oughta just CLICK HERE

 

[tgoodnow]

Question:
My 169 and 149 after working hard seem to backfire slightly even after letting them idle down for 5-10 min which seems longer than normal.

To prevent this is it just a carb adjustment maybee too rich????

Thanks for any and all advice.

 

[rchristensen]

Tim G.
How long has it been since you did a good decarbon and replaced the head gasket? A lot of carbon build up or a blown head gasket can cause that symptom. If you see a black sooty buildup on the cylinder just below the head indicates a bad head gasket. Might just be time for a new spark plug, points and condensor too, I usually don't mess with the carb till I've checked everything else.

 

[jpatchett]

Tim G

My dad's 127 backfired on shutdown for years after a service/overhaul in 1982. We had to let it idle for a few minutes, before turning off. I serviced the carb in 1994 (seals, float pin, etc.). The float was not set correctly (too much fule in bowl). After this carb rebuild the engine has never backfired since, but I adjust carb for different seasons (high and low speed). I assumed the float was allowing excessive fuel to get into the "hot" cylinder and/or muffler causing the backfire. Points are still set from 1982 service.

 

[tgoodnow]

Thats good advice I will check it out and replace the simple items first.

The 16 is a new rebuild a couple of years ago probably only 30 hours onit

14 is old as dirt

 

[trentschler]

What is that piece of thick, round fabric with holes for bolts, under the fram of the original called? Trying real hard to remember...Have to order a new one.
Thanks!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tom R.,

 

[trentschler]

Kraig,
You jumped on that so quick, it's like you were almost waiting on someone to ask. Thanks.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tom R., sometimes. )

 

[rmunday]

For those interested in a PTO generator for the Cub... http://tinyurl.com/595x8

I was looking for ideas and cam across this.

 

[melliott]

I have been lucky enough to find a #1 tiller for sale out her in California, but I'm looking at what upgrades I will have to do to my IH Cub 124 for that implement. With the purchase of the tiller, I get all of the tiller parts plus the attachment brackets. Do I need a creeper? Is the drive belt hard to come by? What kind of lift mechanisms should I look to get from the seller of the tiller? Anything else I cant think of? Your advice or imput would be much appriciated.

 

[bwatson]

Rick, last I knew they also had a 5K and a 10K capacity. Might as well be able to make full use of your Cub's available engine hp. I got caught up in the Y2K thing and bought a 5500 watt generator. I wish I had gone one size larger. It won't run my 2hp compressor.

 

[bwatson]

Mike, does the owners manual come with it? There are some lift parts that are permanently installed on the tractor under the rear sheet metal that need to be taken off. Having the manual could be all you need to convince the seller that the parts you want to take off his tractor in fact go with the tiller. Is the seller's tractor a narrow frame like yours? Later models like the 129 & 1250 are wide frame models and the lift parts might be different. Any Cub dealer can get the drive belt. If you don't have a dealer near by, check the sponsors above. I'll bet any of them would be happy to sell and ship any parts you need. I reccomend having a spare belt on hand. Theres nothing like having a belt break halfway through the job on a Saturday afternoon or Sunday.

 

[bwatson]

Mike, a creeper would be a good thing to have on a gear drive tractor/tiller combo if you can find one.

 

[rleo]

Mike E.,
You have mail.
I've been wantin' a tiller for some time, but Frau keeps insisting that I spend my cub money on my other hobbies (rather than dip into savings).

 

[melliott]

Thanks Brian,
Neither of us have manuals, he was just picking his kids up at my wifes daycare and noticed my cub looked like his, but without the hydro, and he had a tiller he never used. I do need to make sure he has a narrow frame tractor for bracket compatability. I've seen postings of a flat bar type lever and spring assist that run along the inside frame rail out past the differential and to the lift assyembly and I believe are tied to the mower deck lift arm. Are these the items you were talking about? I've ordered parts from the sponsors above, but have never seen the tiller drive belt listed on their sites. But then again I have never had the need to specifically ask for one before. Do you know if the creeper is necessary, it seems like first gear is a little fast for tilling, but creapers seem to cost about as much as I'm getting the tiller for? Thanks.