Archive through March 15, 2005

[dkirk]

Ken W.,

I see what you mean, but was thinking more along the line of something that would bolt to the breaker point mounting location and would work off of the point push rod. This would be easy to install.

 

[bmcmeen]

Terry B. -

I'm a sysadmin and a BOFH, I don't do code

Besides, someone here already saves EVERY picture that appears on this site (along with scans of historical documents and other publications) and puts them on CD - then one can categorize, index and whatever to their heart's content. I'm not about to take his job away...

 

[csanderson]

Thanks Ken. It was just that I found a post in the really old archives,about where hood ornaments for originals might be found,and then, when I saw a picture of an original with headlights, I seemed to remember a bunch of years ago, running a C with field lights that sure were close, if not exact, and was just hoping.

 

[bnecker]

Curtis-

You might want to snoop around a combine graveyard featuring that era IH units for those really c-o-o-l 'rigina' headlights and the classifieds for the wiring and mounts ! ! ! ! !

 

[kweaver]

David - I was thinking once about using the push rod but that's mechanical so you'd need a breaker right ? Back to square one again ... we're tryin to get to square 10 here The cam wears , the system fails ... I had thought about doing a 2:1 off the crank to fire on the compression stroke instead of the 180º firing but a lot of 2 cycle engines (if not all) fire 180º. That'd take a housing , shafts , bearings , belt or gearing ... to much work to make it worth while to put on the market. I've got a lot of "want to's" but don't seem to do anything anymore...but FISH! I am trying to make a PWM to put on my trolling motor batteries though to get more life out of a charge.

I like drawing schematics when I'm not on the lake ... some people like painting cubs ... I can do my "hobby" and watch tv at the same time

 

[jcook]

Pvolner, can a narrow frame creeper work in a wide frame with a handle change? Hope so, it would make life easier. What is the handle difference? JC

 

[scroom]

Ken, David....

Been leerking in the background on the points thread...
What is the draw back to have it fire every 180°...???
Briggs does that now(well the pointless motors anyway)....
Then you could mount a hall crank sensor and do it like on Brian Millers web page with the dodge Ele Box....

Steve

 

[thoffman]

OK here is your big chance for a Cub Cadet loader. ebay #4364571571 Better get out the BIG checkbook!! Something look a little hoakie to me.

 

[dfrisk]

GLEN S. - I think the brakes on Your 1200 are about the same as on My 72... both internal disc. If You have a manual or parts book look at the exploded view. The lever outside the reduction housing has the adjusting set screw on the bottom, this pushes a diecast disc that If I remember right has a steel ball centered in the concave front surface. The flat back of this diecasting pushes on the one brake pad, and the brake disc is a slip fit on the splined end of the pinion shaft right behind the pad. The other pad is located in a recess machined in the front face of the back of the reduction housing. Easiest way to replace is probably remove the whole transaxle. Then just remove the stamped steel cover. Parts You'll need are the two pads, and the O-ring around the diecasting, the housing gasket, the input pinion seal, and I'd replace the needle bearing on the back of the input pinion. The diecasting and steel ball should clean up O-K with a Scotchbrite pad. If Your 1200 is like My 72 was when I did this 15 yrs ago the old brake pads come out in little bitty pieces. "No wonder IHC went outta business..... darned brakes only lasted 22 yrs of neglect & abuse......" ;-) Ohhhh And check the roll pins real close....replace, don't reuse. Or the rag joints.... whatever the 1200 used.

 

[rmunday]

Tom - ouch! Big bucks

 

[jbliler]

Curtis, Bob is steering you the right way. Also look for old 403-453 combines setting around. IH used those lights onn nearly everything for a long time. Most of them were removed and used over and over by kids on their pickups It is a race to see how many the charging system will take!

 

[rchristensen]

On that Ebay loader, is that the way you mount duals????

 

[kweaver]

Steve C - without looking up Brain's page , I'd say the "hall crank sensor" is a Hall Effect switch. It triggers when a magnetic field passes close to it. This homegrown circuit was built 15-17 years ago after studing a Mopar electronic ignition box. I wish I'd had it when the 'ol lady's '72 Swinger needed a box replaced on it.

Tom - he left out the rare PTO. Those aren't "custom" hub caps , those are IH caps. Custom seat cover means the original is NLA ... jerk wad. BUT my fav is ... <font color="0000ff">as you might expect is not cheap so again <u>bid often</u></font> I think they did !

Richard - he doesn't know if he's comin' or gonin'... that's to throw anybody off that's tracking him

His other auctions:
my fire hydrant is nicer than his !
somebody needs to tell him 3/32" is NOT plate !

 

[gwsmith]

dennis.....thanks for the reply, I have the tractor completly stipped down, and have the gear reduction seperated from the tranny, everything is like you say, an i have a manual, the part i am qustioning is the "dicast disc/steel ball centered in the concave front surface/brake pad"...do you pry this out as one unit towards the front of the tractor? and that means prying against the pads, hence the little bitty pieces?....thought the pads might get chipped. when i got this cub, there where no brakes, once we started this restoration,and stripped everthing apart i found that the leaver outside the reduction housing was seized,i presume that the diecast disc is seized also as i have no movement there, i have had pentrating fluid on it since yesterday.

 

[thoffman]

I've always said "I'd give my left n-t"

for one of those "IHC" railroad locks. Well the left n-t might be a bargin!! ebay item # 6161951079

 

[digger]

Dang Tom,
Maybe I oughta sell mine!!!!!!

 

[tcbusch]

Is this right?
NLA = No Longer Available?
NOS = New Old Stock?
BOFH = Bastard Operator from Hell?
OGNC = Old Guy Named Charlie?

 

[digger]

That's Mr. Old Guy to you buddy!

 

[csanderson]

Server finally got back up,so can respond to responces.
Bob N,and Jerry B, Thanks for the suggestions and ideas. Don't have many combines in the Ozarks, but have to go up to the Great plains once a month, and lots of bone yards and wind breaks there. Have something to do up there, now. thanks again.

 

[dfrisk]

GLEN - I'm at work and all My manuals are home..... BUT, I think the diecast piston & pads have to come out the front. The pin has to be removed from the two ears on the reduction housing and the brake lever slid off the pin as the pin is removed. Keep some PB Blaster, Kroil, Whatever Your favorite rust buster is on the pin, little heat will help too. The diecast piston is probably siezed but the same solvent should help there too. Tap it into the housing and loosen it before prying it out. I can almost promise the brake pads are already broken so don't worry about saving them, They're cheap. And Our Sponsors will have the diecast piston if You have to use excessive force to remove it. If it's really stuck You might have to drill it out. Give things time and they'll come apart. Those parts didn't sieze over night.... Kinda makes Me appreciate the nice protective coating of Hy-Tran My transaxle on the 72 has....