Archive through March 04, 2009

[jfsirois]

I have a a 782 with an H-42 thrower on it
I replaced the chain sprocket and all the bearings
which were mostly available from cc, and the rest were easy to match thru mcmaster. Soon after I damaged the non replacable drive shaft u joint. the half I needed is nla. after a bad fix by a machine shop I ended up having a SPICER shaft assembly built. It is quite a bit heavier but it fit and worked fine thu last winter and the first 5 storms this year. Then the shaft came undun on the sprocket side three times. each time I upgrade the 1/4 20 from fully threaded standard to grade 8 with short threads. I think it will hold but I wish i could find the correct diameter shaft,for safety of me and the machine.Any advice would be great as my wife is questioning the old cub's prowess and my sanity. grrr

 

[klejeune]

John,
Sounds like you need to have a bushing made to take up the slack between the shaft and the ujoint. Then when you bolt it up there won't be any wiggle to cause it to work the bolt loose or break it.

 

[kfreeman]

John,

If I understand correctly, you are breaking the bolts on the left side of the u-joint. Did you go from 2 bolts in the old one to a single bolt in the new one? The Haban manual says that there should be a shear pin on the gearbox end of this shaft. Is this still intact? Also, is it possible that grade 8 bolts are more brittle and more subject to shear under shock loads (I don't know, just thinking out loud). And as Keith mentioned is there slack between the OD of the shaft and the ID of the yoke?

 

[kfreeman]

John,

I looked at the Haban Parts list online. It shows this end of the shaft to be secured with a 3/8" set screw w/ jamb nut; and a 1/4" x 2" Grade 5 bolt w/ self locking nut. I didn't see the set screw in your pictures.

 

[rtunison]

I finally got home for a while and got the Cub out to do some winter limb cleanup. 77deg. and sunny!!!
I could not get to the Fl. Flywheelers fellow Florida cubbers.

. Maybe next year.

 

[jcartwright]

John F: After looking at your pictures, I have to ask this question... What rpm is your motor running at to get the snow up on top of the house like that???

No wonder your driveshaft isn't holding together...

Sorry, I couldn't resist...

 

[aaytay]

John-
I don't have any answers as far as your driveshaft situation, but did want to mention that one of your lift-assist springs has disconnected.

Next time you're digging around down there you may want to hook it up so it doesn't get lost.

 

[jfsirois]

thanks for all the response. The end of the drive shaft slides over the jack shaft on the snow thrower. their is a 3/16" keyway secured with a set screw and lock nut. There is also a 1/4"x2" bolt thu both pieces. This bolt has been disapearing in the snow each time the shaft slides off. the key and the set screw remain. maybe the bolt loosened and fell out ? i never find pieces like you would on the shear pin.

The tractor side of the D.S. has the shear pin and a grease fitting to keep it sloppy. And the second and third time the shaft came off the shear did not break!!
I took the shaft back to the shop to check damage or bends and it was fine.
although lining up the yokes was something the machinist reminded me of.
new shaft drive mower decks seem to have a shaft that is close in size to theh-42.
I do raise and lower the blower with the pto on but that is ok ? isn't it?

The spring assist is attached to the housing. with all that was happening down there I pulled of the chain to keep it from harm.

The last Northeast left that snow up there on the roof .No matter how big your machine is there will always be something to shovel!! thanks John

 

[jdiem]

John Next time you install use Red lock Tight this may cure your problem.Lock washers don't cut it.

 

[dfrisk]

JOHN S. - I see You double-nutted that bolt holding the driveshaft onto the snow blower. Like John D says, Red Lock-Tight is the strongest they make, but You may want to drill Your next bolt for a cotter pin also.
Only problem similar to Your's I've ever had is the driven pulley on the input shaft loosening and spitting the drive key out. Made a real "Special" tapered bore in the pulley. Driveshaft has never been a problem.

Last resort for that bolt could be a "Torque Retention Nut" Not a nylon insert nut but a nut that actually gets pressed so it's not round anymore. They typically have 2 or 3 marks on the edges of the flats where they get pressed. Or You can make Your own with a vice, or an anvil & BFH. If it doesn't take at least two wrenches to install it won't work. Last resort is bend the end of the bolt over or weld the nut on.

You should be able to raise/lower Your blower with it running. Make sure the slip joint of the shaft moves easily, under load I bet it moves really hard and that's why You broke the grd 8 bolt before.

 

[bnolte]

Luther,

My brother in law has a heavy duty grass collection system on his Gravely, it uses a 8 inch diameter duct from the mower deck to an 8 hp blower into a tow behind cart. It is still a pain in the butt to maneuver, and still needs to be emptied frequently, but it does work rather well.

Todd,

My Dad is an old farm boy himself, and I remember my Grandpa's Farmall M, as well as a few other old tractors around here. He's also put in some seat time on the old 102, with a mower deck, snow blade, and even an old single bottom plow we had laying around.

Dad, my brother and I also spent a good bit of time together in my youth wrenching that old 102. It was pretty much worn out when we got it, and heavy use and our teenage recklessness meant regular trips to the parts store. This was often followed by a stern lecture from Dad about how this expensive repair could have been avoided if we had ....

 

[jdiem]

John I thought about having you safty wire the nut but thought that would weeken the bolt. New subject anyone install 23/10.5/12 on 8.5 rims does this work and give you a bigger foot print? Thanks John

 

[jdiem]

John Dennis is also right on the Torque nuts and cotter key all will work after years of racing motorcycles I red lock tight everthing but the rider haven figured out how to due that yet crashed dragway 42 Ohio 156 mph for my rider that was a long slide. John P.S. He was ok sort of Broke his hand.

 

[dfrisk]

JOHN D. - Have You thought of trying VELCRO to hold the rider on the motorcycle? Watched a YouTube video a couple weeks ago of a dismount from a bike at about 156 mph. Guy had just cleared the end of the Quarter, sat up and the wind pulled His left hand off the bars and right on around and off the bike. Both bike & rider slid about another quarter mile. OUCH!

Your question about 23-10.50's on 8-1/2" wide rims - Should work fine, rim & tire designed to work together.

Speaking of Lock-Tight - My favorite is I think 272, red with Lubricity according to the bottle. Looks like Cherry jelly, smells like Cherry jelly, I'll say it Tastes like Cherry Jelly but You have to promise not to ask how I know first before I'll admit it.

 

[pbell]

John Diem,

IH did, on every Cub Cadet they built with that size tire. Even the 26-12x12 used on the 982 was on an 8.5" wide wheel, but the wheel had a different back spacing than the one used on the other models.

 

[jdiem]

Thank you Dennis & Paul I wondered on the tires. Jerry West no longer with us but cancer not one of my bikes got Jerry. I miss him every day. John

 

[mmorrison]

Hey guys, does anyone know if the base ground on the voltage regulator is the one on the back side. If someone has a pic it might be helpful to me.

 

[theaton]

Bruce., Dad had a Farmall F-20 he bought used in 1965 for 60 bucks and drove it home.
He bought the cub I now have new in 1972. I have pics of myself on it when I was still in diapers.

I recieved the "stern lecture" on more than occasion. Usually followed by "Get in the house now!"

 

[theaton]

Mike M., The V/R should have three terminals on one side and one terminal on the opposite side. The side with one terminal is ground.

 

[sblunier]

John S.

The bottom drive shaft (not on the thrower) is out of phase at the U joints by 90 deg. That will KILL drive lines. If you are installing the freshly painted shaft as is, then the phasing is likely your problem.