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Archive through June 26, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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DAVE, KRAIG - I don't think you can put a hydro fan on backwards. You can flip it around but the fan plades still push the air the same direction.

For the fan to blow air the "Other" direction the blades have to be angled the other way.
 
Dennis, now I have to go find a fan and look at it, you may be right about that. What makes me sure the one I put is different was the hub on that one faces the engine. I know the one I put on faced the hydro cause it was a kind of a pain to get the clip on faceing the tranny.
 
Hmm. The spirol pin seems to be fine, and the output shaft is spinning very fast. Would check the output shaft if I had a tachometer. About to fire it up. Wich me luck!
 
Marlin: FWIW:
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Can't be much difference between a 149 and a 129.
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3" of rain already this week.
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Dave-

Dennis and Kraig are right. We've covered this before but it's been a while. The only way for the fan to blow the other way is for the engine to turn the other way.
 
Marlin, not sure what you looking for, from the top of frame to top is engine, near 11 1/2 inches, add the spark plug and boot and I have 13.

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This is from my 1000. I don't have any other 10hp.
 
Bad news... The tractor still did not move! the left valve (from rear of tractor) is stuck closed, as the other left valve was. (I put a different working pair in from a spare transaxle from my 105). There is still no "hydro" sound at all... There drive to the pump is fine. Could one of the external tubes be clogged? Would just a little too much hydro fluid cause this to happen?
 
Jacob: Ever hear about the time I changed hydro fluid and left a paper towel in the rear end? Probably not. Looks from here that it's time for a fluid & filter change.
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Good question about too much fluid - I've wondered that, myself. Personally, can't see a thing that it would hurt. (scratch head)
 
Kraig,
Whoa. That was YOUR cultivator? Art never told me that. Hey, did you get your money that I paid him???????????????
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Wayne,
Kraig gave you better pics than I can deliver. One thing tho, extra tines cost about 20.00, so, I took the depth tines off and converted them to soil tines.

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Frank C. and Ron T. A BIG THANK YOU for the measurements.

Jacob E.G. If the output shaft (see Kraig M.'s picture) is turning and you have guages then I'd start doing some pressure checking. Your charge pump could have taken a trip south. (Just a quick thought here. Too danged worn out from work and the medication that I am on for my FIFTH spider bite. At least I'm tasty to spiders.
 
Jacob E.G. - you mentioned the left valve is stuck down. If the right valve is up then you should get wheel travel in one direction.
I don't know what to much hydro fluid would do, but I doubt it would cause this. I would still go ahead and remove the fill plug, and let any overfill drain out (it'll be a mess on the back of the cover and draw bar but you can clean that off later).
I don't know how you could have a clogged line (except for Frank's paper towel method). I suppose you could try to loosening or disconnecting the by-pass tube to see if fluid runs out, but what ever comes out you'll have to refill to proper level. Another possibility is changing the filter, since the PO may have installed an incorrect one or maybe it's failed internally (never heard of that tho). If all these efforts fail, and you have the fluid level up to the bottom of the fill plug, then I guess you're only option is to get a service manual and gauges to start checking pressures. Worsst case you could just swap an entire pump from another unit.
 
Jacob Elijah Giles

Sitting in the seat looking down at the two hydro valves the left one is for forward and the right valve is reverse.so if one valve is stuck down you should be able to move one way at least.If not then the pin in the pump might have broke . remove the drive shaft and take the two bolts out and the pump will come off the hydro . there will be a pin through the pump shaft .Also this pump gear can break.

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Harry Bursell

You are way faster than me at typing lol. I have only been able to use two fingers and I`am so slow .
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Good news on the 109 front. I have been boning-up on how these mechanical PTO's work - thanks for everyone's input!

My concern was that the clutch assy might be frozen-up on the pto shaft. The fiber button is gone (looks like it was broken off) and I needed to see if the thrust button was useable/intact.

First thing I did was check the thrust button and it appears to be good. Next I put a narrow nut between the pto rock shaft and the thrust button - as a stand-in for the fiber button. The goal was to mash the clutch and see of the pto would spin free of the engine. Didn't work. Next I tried a thicker nut and that gave me the compression I needed. I could hand turn the pto pulley without turning the engine crank along with it. So it looks like my PTO clutch is good - at least good enough to use/try. I ordered a new fiber button from Charlie today and once I get it, I'll try mounting the mowing deck for a run.

BTW - does anyone know off the top of their head what size/part number belt I need for my 44 deck to work with this 109? Would it be the same belt as used on the 1650 and 44A deck? If so, I might have one of those.

I also need to tighten down the engine a bit. Is it normal for these solid mount Kohlers to work a tad bit loose over the years? Any cautions before I crank down on the engine mounting bolts?
 
Donnie Tanner - just keep on practicing with those 2 fingers. At least I don't see any typos like I get from 4 fingers - and 2 thumbs
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I've never heard of a broken pin inside the pump, and I've never seen a broken gear like you show in the pic. What were you doing or how did that happen???? Also, what about the output shaft on the backend of the pump??? Does that turn at the same speed as the input shaft??? Will that rotate freely if something is broke inside the pump???
 
BILL - Different than your 1650, the engine in your 109 should be bolted solid, NO movement. I think all K241 10 HP Kohlers came with cast iron oil pans, with the flat bottom, the engine to frame bolts are 3/8" NC, 9/16" wrench size... so tighten them up good & snug. If your oil pan was aluminum I'd say to be less agressive on tightening them. So just to be sure, try getting a magnet to stick to the pan before tightening those four bolts.

I seem to remember My 129 & 44A deck used a 78 inch long mule drive belt, may have been 79 inch. Your 109/44A would be the same.
 
Bill J - well I'm glad to see you keeping at it. On your 109 PTO clutch, it really doesn't take much pressure to release the clutch. If you think about IH using a fiber button, it can't take alot of pressure or you would just wear out the button in a matter of minutes, which I've seen happen. If it takes alot of pressure to release your clutch then most likely your clutch assembly needs to be re-adjusted. I'd get on the horn quick to Charlie and change your order to at least 2 maybe even 3 of those fiber buttons (or at least 2 of the bronze buttons). Now, the belt for the 44A deck used on a 109 is the same as used on a early production 1650. (The later production 1650 had a longer belt spec'd but you could still use, and were better off using the same belt). You can check the FAQ for the belt number but I believe it's IH 59971C1 (but not for certain).
 
Ray-

Thanks for the reply. Yep, we're fortunate to have Kraig here.

Bill J. and Hydro-

If the pto is adjusted properly the wear button should last a good while if not years. Sometimes it's hard to get things exactly right because of wear in the overall linkage. Just a little bit of play like where the rod goes through the release lever can make it harder to achieve on a constant basis. The wear button should only be involved in minimal movement/contact. When engaged it touches nothing (supposedly) and when disengaged the pto doesn't turn.

Just a couple of pennies worth...
 

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