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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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cmwkrill

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Apr 8, 2012
Messages
213
displayname
Charles Matthew Wayne Krill
GUYS GUYS GUYS!!! *ahem* Sorry, I'm just a little excited. Reason? I bought my second cub cadet today. (yes, my profile says a 126 and an original, but I still view the original as Dad's, even though he gave it to me.) Anyway, Its a 109. <font size="+1"><font color="ff0000">I have some questions, as its my first wide-frame and my first hydro!</font></font>

1: I want to make sure it'll last me awhile, so I plan on changing the hydro fluid straight-away. Is it Hy-Tran? or is it 80-90 weight? (I'm assuming Hy-Tran, but, better safe than sorry. Also, I'm assuming I can't put Marvel Mystery Oil in it.)
2: my boss (the guy who sold it to me) says he thinks the hydro was working o.k., so should I just replace the fluid, or should I tear into it since I have to have the motor off anyway? How hard would that be for a guy who hasn't worked on a transmission before? (haven't needed to, haven't dared to.)
3: I know this is an opinion question, but do you think it would be cooler to restore it, modify it, or a little of both?
4: any advice at all about any aspect of the tractor would be greatly appreciated.

Now: to possibly help, here's what little I know of the tractor's background. A guy (I don't know who) brought it into the shop and had them put $300 in parts (including a brand-new starter-generator) into it, then, when all it probably needed was the compression-release spring, he walked away and stuck them with the tractor and the bill. It had been sitting in the trade in lot since. I bought it for $300 so my employer could break even on parts cost. Oh, it was originally sold at Tavernier Sales, Maumee, Ohio.
 

rmcshane

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Jan 18, 2010
Messages
587
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Ryan McShane
Charles- There is a good write up in the FAQ's that explains how to change your hydor fluid DO NOT use 80-90 weight oil in your hydro. Use Hy-Tran from Case IH. It works good in it and you know youre getting a quality product.If the hydro moves back and forth, without creeping (creeping refers to when the hydro lever is in neutral, and the tractor still wants to move forward or reverse slightly) I wouldnt bother tearing into it. There are a lot more knowlegdeable people on hydrostats (Marlin H. or Hydro Harry) will be able to help you there.

109's are good solid tractors. The wide frames make them easy to work on, and fairly easy to do any sort of maintenence as well. Lets see some pictures of it. As far as restore or customize, its your Cub, do as you please
beerchug.gif
 

rleo

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Sep 11, 2002
Messages
574
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Ray Leo
Charles,
Congrats. Nothing better than adding to the collection. Shushies are goood for mowing. I always used Hytran in the tranny on my 147. But smarter guys than me may have another opinion. IMHO, I would load the motor in to first see if you have hydro creep. The tranny and pump are most lilely in good shape, it's the linkage that will cause the creep. To fix that if you have creep, I think you will have to split the tractor. I found doing that work on the 147 to be a pain, that's why I would wait.
 

cmwkrill

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Joined
Apr 8, 2012
Messages
213
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Charles Matthew Wayne Krill
THANKS GUYS!!!!! (I get the feeling i'm gonna like being friends with a guy that works at a CASE IH dealership..) As for pictures, I'll try to get some tomorrow. It's no beauty queen, atm..
 

jchamberlin

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Jul 19, 2010
Messages
1,842
Location
Farmville, North Carolina
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Jeremiah Chamberlin
Charles M. W. K. --Congratulations on your purchase. I would repeat the advice of Dennis Frisk, change the fluid with Hy-tran and change the filter. I buy the Cub Cadet filter, but there is a cross reference list for filter in the FAQs. If you're really curious about how Hydrostatics work, I would wait for one to show up in the shop or cultivate other sources, they hardly ever break, although they can get worn.

The things that wear out are mostly external, like the trunnion arm that holds the springs. It often needs a weld repair that is best done with the transmission out of the tractor. The full info is found in the FAQs. The linkage can also be tightened up with the proper installation of spacers. The biggest thing is getting everything adjusted right.

I'm curious:
Does the 109 have external or internal brakes?

Does it have lights? Do they work?

Does it have a mowing deck? Is it quiet or do you need ear plugs when you engage it?

Things to check:
What shape are the belts in?

How does the PTO operate, is the button in good shape? If it is worn, can you pop for a bronze one?

Does the Hydro leak?

Does the motor leak?

Does the motor use oil?

How does the plug look?

Drop 1 capful of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas tank, and 2 caps in the crank case and drive several tanks of gas through it.

Sounds like you're going to have a ball.

smile.gif
 

cmwkrill

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Apr 8, 2012
Messages
213
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Charles Matthew Wayne Krill
Jeremiah --At this present time, I cannot answer many of your questions. being as I am supposed to be working and earning my pay, I try to stay busy and not gawk at the trade-ins. However: it does not have lights, and the deck (should) run. Since the tractor has a broken compression release spring (so I am told) it doesn't have the "oomph" to start it (it does turn over like a top without the spark plug in). I did spend a little time observing it when I thought it was going to go to the auction (thankfully it didn't) and, if anything leaks, it was not noticeable at the time. I'm assuming you mean spark plug, and unless it's new, I'll replace it anyway, just because I try to change all the fluids, filters, and the plug at the same time the first time. Makes it less complicated for me, because then I change the oil and clean the air filter together, (usually once a year if I use it a lot, usually I end up cleaning the filter more often, though.) the plug and air filter I'll change every 2 oil changes, and I'll probably change the Hy-Tran every 5-6 years. (of course, I have no idea how expensive it is, so I might end up trying to make it last longer.
 

elincoln

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Feb 20, 2012
Messages
159
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Edward H Lincoln
Sunday evening I went down to the neighbors, he has the 122 and the 129, we towed the 129 up by his house. I was sitting on it and holding the 2 buttons down while he towed me backwards up the hill.
It didn't have any spark. I removed the gas tank, pulled the 3 prong connecter of the ignition switch. cleaned the 3 wire connectors buy removing them from the connector. I also removed and cleaned the prongs on the ignition switch. Finally got power at the coil and got it started after filing the points.
The pin holding the front axle is sticking out of the frame about 1" and I don't know why the axle just doesn't fall out. The ends of the axle move almost 6". He has had the 129 over 30 years and abused it most of the time.
 

hydroharry

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Jul 22, 2007
Messages
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Harry Bursell
Jeff B - make sure you take a good hard look for the timing site hole on on both sides of the flywheel shroud. Sometimes the site hole will be partial obstructed by the S/G mount so look closely because the S/G may be blocking view of it. The Kohler manual doesn't have pics but it clearly states there could be a plug in the site hole. Let us know what you find.

Ed "Hot Rod" Lincoln - I see you're at it again, but this time driving in reverse, and I suspect no hands on the steering wheel to boot (since your fingers were holding down the buttons). At some point that axle will slide to the side and basically fall out. The roll pin must be broke and the pin slide forward - or the boss welded on the back side of the axle channel broke loose. I would definitely STOP driving that tractor until the axle is fixed - If the pin is floating it could probably bang against the oil pan and crack it, or who knows what.

Charles K - In my opinion you need to get the engine running before jumping into anything else. Once the engine is running then I'd use it some and see if you have any problems. Jeremiah suggested the amounts of MMO which is probably a good idea. After you have a few hours run time you should have a good idea of any issues you have. With regard to "creep", if it's slight and not all the time it probably can be corrected with an adjustment. If it jumps on you in either forward or reverse then it's more likely the springs/buttons and possibly the trunion itself. But you really need to use it to see how it acts. At this point a few more hours run time on the hydro fluid that's in it isn't gonna make a whole lotta difference in my view. The 109 is a nice tractor. I have to admit I lean toward the original ways of IH so after you've completed any major mechanical issues, if any, I'd go the original restoration route - except for just a few things, and that would still require using IH stuff. Probably the most common change would be to the hood hinge. If you have the original piano hinge and it's failing you can change it to the QL style which is a much better hinge and mounts in the same holes. But without pictures I have to say that should be a ways off in your restore project. You really need to make sure the mechanics are all good. Jeremiah provided you a good list to start with. And finally, when you're supposed to be working - you're supposed to be working, not eyeballing the trade-in lot (unless'n they're yellar'n-white stuff).
YOU GOT THE FEVER!!!!
 

bjamison

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IHCC Supporter
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Dec 3, 2005
Messages
812
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Binder 1650
I have a chance to buy a couple of 16 hp Kohler K-341 engines for a good price. I think they came out of Cub Cadet - but am not sure. Anything I should look-out for with these engines with respect to Cub Cadet? I know what the engine looks like in the 1650, but what about in a 169 or for use as a transplant in another CC, like a 149, etc.

Were the blocks different on the ones used on Cub Cadets - were the oil pans the same for the 16hp used on the 1650 as the 169? Mounting locations engine block to frame, etc.

I have plans for one engine to be a back-up for my 1650 and the other to go to another color tractor - maybe.

Any info would be very much appreciated.
 

htrent

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Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
22
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Hiliary Trent
Anyone know the going rate of the little Cub Cadet bronze statues? Found one-sellers wants $100...
 

trutherford

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May 17, 2011
Messages
79
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Troy Rutherford
Taking the bags of chicken feed out to the shed using the #1 cart I had received for Christmas and my Brothers 70 he had received for his birthday! I haven't put any pictures up for show yet, I figured someone would like them!
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238438.jpg
 

wshytle

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May 18, 2009
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2,810
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Wayne Shytle
Charles-

If I were you I'd start with the engine. Get a carb kit and new air filter. That should take care of the carb unless it badly needs throttle shaft work. I'd go to the FAQs and decarbon the head as well as replace the head gasket and spark plug. The ACR spring can be replaced by removing the cam gear cover (if I'm not mistaken). New points would be nice too but the old ones might clean up fine. I'd time it using the static timing method.

I figure the tractor ain't worth a flip without an engine so that's where I start. The hydro issues will "talk" to you as you drive the tractor to tell you what is needed. You don't necessarily have to split the tractor to correct creeping. It probably just needs neutral found and a little linkage adjustment or two. The cam brackets are most likely a little wobbly and I would imagine if it leaks it's probably the pump gasket and these repairs do require the tractor to be split. This would the time to replace the trunion springs and do the slot repair. That's in the FAQs too.

Get all of the "kinks" out and after you use it for another twenty years then maybe your decendents will enjoy it as well as their decendents and so on.

I have a 109 and have enjoyed it. It's resting right now with some engine issues but that just means the ball is in my court.
 

rleo

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Joined
Sep 11, 2002
Messages
574
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Ray Leo
Troy,
We can never have enough pics on the forum. Took alook at your profile. That's quite the collection for someone still in school. Hope yur cracking the books. . .
BTW, which tractor is that in the profile pic. Is that a hydralic lift I'm seein'?
 

trutherford

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Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
79
displayname
Troy Rutherford
OH yeah that is my brothers 100 he has had that since the day he was born. The tractor is fully dressed with a creeper gear hydraulics three point and lights. There also is a rear PTO in the cabinet that just needs to be put in it. In the profile picture he doesn't have the grote taillight on but he has just received it from being painted. My dad has the same Exact cub with all the options too. He is working on his 70 too look exactly the same as the too 100's.
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cmwkrill

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Apr 8, 2012
Messages
213
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Charles Matthew Wayne Krill
THANKS GUYS! I don't know when I'm gonna get to haul it home.. I need to clean out a spot at the storage unit first, and grandpa is infamously slow about that kind of thing.. Thanks again for the tips. I've got the camera with me today, so I'll see if I can get a few pics while I'm on break.
Yes, yes I do have the fever.
 

jbaker

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Nov 10, 2008
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4,144
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jeff l baker
Hillary check ccspecialties one of our sponsers
 

hydroharry

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Jul 22, 2007
Messages
4,376
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Harry Bursell
Bill J - as far as I know there are 3 styles of Kohler engine blocks. There is an FAQ for this and it has pictures. The base of the block for a Cub Cadet is probably the rarest. Your 1650 engine is a K341AQS and it has the same mounting base (thru the oil pan) as the K341A used in a 169. It's the same basic block. Now, if these engines you're looking at have the other style mounting bases I understand one version can be modified and used in a Cub Cadet, and one version cannot be modified to work. Look at the "dished" oil pan on your 1650 engine and then look at these engines. If these engines have dished pans and you don't see big mounting ears or a big base where the pan is mounted then there is a good chance these are engines for/from a Cub Cadet. If they have the mounting ears or a big taller square base then they are not Cub Cadet engines.
 

rleo

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Sep 11, 2002
Messages
574
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Ray Leo
Hey Harry,
There's a house for sale across the street from me. You interested in moving to NW Indiana?
 

tsimpson

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Joined
Apr 28, 2012
Messages
35
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Anthony J Simpson
Good morning. I'm new to the forum but not new to Cubs. I owned an original for some 35 years, I cut over an acre of hilly property with it and bladed snow but it finally gave it up and I sold it for about half of what i paid for iot in 73.

I just bought a fairly nice 129. It's a lot more complex than the old one but like the old one it's built to last. I'm going to start out just going through it, lub, filter change, plug ect. I read through the FAQ's and the manuals and checked the contributors websites and I can't find part numbers for the trans filter or the 44 inch mower and starter/generator belts. I like to buy from the people who support thses sites and would appreciate any information as to where I can find the correct part numbers. Thanks, Tony Simpson
 

proessler

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Joined
Feb 15, 2008
Messages
740
Location
Dane county, WI
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Paul W.Roessler
Hi Tony, You can check parts @ *Cub Cadet Parts Lookup* above^^^^^^. CC Specialties above^^^ has filters & belts listed...
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PWR P.S. Hydro filter...#723-3014
 

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