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Archive through June 20, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Steve B:
I'm going to have to rewire my bastard 1659 from the ground up due to the conglomeration of pieces and parts I've assembled. Once it'll go, though, you're welcome to come up and give it a whirl. I've got the k341 on a cross-braced subframe with all new iso-mounts. We'll see how bad it is.

I've also got a K321 block lying around here that may need to replace it if it shakes too bad. If the K341 doesn't pan out, I think I'll rebuild the 14 with the K361 cam. A Cub-wise puller just a little north of here said that the K361 cam is worth a couple of hp by itself. It ultimately may be the way to go.

later,
Keith
 
Pat K-
Just so you know, when the guys refer to 'iso-mounts', that's what's on your 1450. There's OEM-type Iso-Mount kits available, and there's also some similar types available through NAPA. There IS a difference- the NAPA parts are supposedly harder material.

If your engine mounts aren't tied together with a cross-brace, I think most all of the QuietLine gurus modify their mounts with support straps to improve rigidity and distribute load to the iso-mounts. DK :)
 
Hi all! Take a minute to introduce myself.
Live in Central Iowa.
Have discovered my Hybird 1100, Kohler 12HP is not considered a real Cadet. So will mostly lurk and learn what I can. Eventually will pick up a Real Cadet.
Jim Dannels
 
Digger,
thanks for the pic, though i seem to remember the spring kept falling out when i tried it that way, but i'll try it again. maybe if i spread it a little so it fits tighter.

the 341 i just rebuilt doesn't seem to shake THAT much, it has the 361 cam too. it sure can eat grass with those gators!
 
You know, my 169's K341 really doesn't shake all that bad. I suspect it's luck of the draw, some are just worse then others.

Now when my deck FELL OFF yesterday, boy didn't she shake then! (just a pin broke in the sub frame, easy fix, but kind of wakes you up).
 
Keith,

What happened to the Briggs motor?????

I love the power the 16hp has, but I gotta kill the shakes if I'm gonna use it for anything other than plowing......like I said, maybe it'll just end up in the 128.

OR, like you said.....a hot cam in a 14hp might be the ticket.
 
Nate,

Ballance gears in or out????

Mine was an early QL motor and never had them.
 
Nate,
Squeeze it a little closer together where my fingers are in the pic, it doesn't take much to hold it til you get things buttoned up.
 
Steve,
it did have the balance gears, but i removed them. come to think of it, the crank is out of a 321, maybe that has something to do with it?
 
Nate,

Shouldn't matter, crank spec's are identical.
 
As for 169's or 16hp engines shaking, my 169 doesn't shake too bad. Sure it's a little more shake than my old 72 or 73, but I don't think it's that bad. Just this year I heli-coiled the aluminum hood/nose casting, hinge is fine and the casting hasn't been heli-coil'd before. The 169's on it's second engine (or at least I'm assuming so since it doesn't have a 13-fin block) so if all the hood is the one it left the factory with, then I'd say it doesn't shake too bad.

Steve-
From what I've been able to find out, for service parts - Yes the crankshafts for a K341 and K321 have the same part number, BUT from some of the looking I've done says they left the factory with crankshafts balanced to slightly differnt specs.
 
Don B. Let me say it like this. In 1961 IH started to make the Cub Cadets in January. The early Originals had pins and a collars that held the steering components/wheels to the cast iron axle. Later in 61 they changed it to a nut that held it on. IH made the Original all the way through 1962. Then in 63 they changed their line up to the 70/100. So basically 1962 was the main year of production. Now as far as being able to spot one just by looking, well let's say if that was the case, someone from either of the forums would have 501 in their collection...
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You will have to go by S/N 23675 to 47845. However, going by probability, there were 23,084 Originals made in 1961. In 1962 (a complete year of production) there were 26,170 Originals made. In 1963 I can't remember what month, or the Serial Number that changed with the inception of the 70/100, but the number of Originals will be VERY low for production numbers.
 
IMHO, hell with the vibration, the 16hp Kohler is way too cool to have in a Cub Cadet. I want a 169 and frankly could care less about the vibration "problem". Then again, you are talking to a guy who has a 73 FLH Harley Davidson that shook the $h!t out of him years ago and must be numb...
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Hi Kraig!
 
Jeff R-
I knew there was something funny about you when you came over last summer..

<font size="-2">That's "funny - funny" not "funny" "Ha Ha"...</font>
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I have a 169 also. It is probably one of the smoothist running cubs I have. I do have quite a few. (Check with Charlie Mc.) It definitely runs smoother than any of my Q/L's (5 running) It is smoother than my 129 and about the same as my 108. The 71, 72 and 102 all are not quite as smooth as the 169.

I have a 1650 on the way but not sure how smooth it is.

I really like my 169.

I heard or read somewhere that the 169 had the smallest production numbers. Is that true?
 
Frank M. just taking a very quick look the 169 appears to be the most rare with a total production of 4005.
 
Thanks jeffrey, thats great info on the axels with pins & collars or nuts I hope it can help me ID what I've spotted I hope to be there in a couple of days from now. I realy want it to be a 1962 so if I see nuts I'll hopefuly be able to get at the serial num.
PS I can easily admire some pics if anyone has some. tks again Don.
 
Thought about my friends on the forum this weekend when I saw this...
19740.jpg

It's Milwaukee Road 4-8-4 No. 261 and was in Red Wing MN where we were doing some father's day boating. Not only did I not know it was going to be there, but I can't remember ever seeing a real steam engine fire up in person. What a treat!

On another note...
Did some cubbin' on the 149 tonight. Fired up the welder for the first time and zipped up a crack in the steering mount/cross-member. Got the rebuilt steering tube remounted only to find that something was still "screwy" with the steering. Turns out one of the front wheels had a bad bearing. Popped the bearing out...well....pieces of the bearing fell out and I had to scrape out what was left of it. I tried to drop another on back in it's place, but the wheel was too far gone...all wallored out...."I know, fire up the welder!"
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This welder makes me realize how insufficient my hand-file selection is!

Dunham-
Congrats!
 
KENtucky, I just had to comment on that typo - I make plenty of 'em myself, but that one was a good'un. Thanks for the chuckle!

Richard, I may not put the factory baffle in at all, it's so lightweight. I had a local sheetmetal shop make a baffle for my 44" deck, and it was cheaper than buying a part and getting it shipped here, and was heavier metal, so I'll very likely go that route. Don't know about the height issue, though, I think I'll wait and see how yours turns out. I had the blade-leveling problem you describe on my 44" deck, NONE of the 3 blades were at the same height. Took a pretty good bit of juggling around of the washers, but they're fairly close now. It's cutting the best it has since I've had it, but I still am not real pleased with the cut, as it's still not totally even from blade to blade. As I mentioned, the 42" does a better job even without baffles. I recently acquired another 44" deck with the skin in really good shape, it's missing a few parts but I have yet another with a pretty rotten skin that has useable parts on it. I plan on combining those two to make one, and then I'll expend whatever effort it takes to make the resulting deck cut level. If you don't mind, keep me posted on how your 38" works with the baffles. I do want to install baffles in my 42", because while it does a great job without 'em on straight cutting, it does tend to leave some grass standing on sharp turns, and I'm told that's because the baffles are missing.
 
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