• FIRST AND LAST NAMES ARE REQUIRED WHEN REGISTERING

Archive through December 30, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

dkamp

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2004
Messages
742
displayname
Dave Kamp
Zak-
Glad to hear it was something silly. Now... wonder how the mice got that socket in there in the first place! :)

About the fluid- Terry says 'suck it'... take that with a 50-lb block of salt. If you look forward to kissing the girls, find a more 'insulated' technique for sampling.
blush.gif


Spring for a rear cover gasket and just yank the cover, clean it all out, reassemble with new gasket, and refill with proper fluid. FWIW, that gear-jammer transaxle is very tolerant of many types of lubricants, and is under a very light load in 'normal' garden-use. As long as it sticks to gears, bearings, etc., well enough to lubricate and protect against corrosion, it'll last essentially indefinately. Old gooey-glop WILL cause it to be sluggish. My bet is that if you pull that cover, the fluid will reek... (the Previous Owner probably put in 90wt gear lube). Not necessary to be that heavy. HyTran is good stuff, probably a bit overkill (cost-wise) for the gear-drive application (best for the Hydro, though). If you don't plan on using it much, thick'n sticky is better, as it keeps everything covered and corrosion-free.

Brakes... since it's been sitting for a while, clean any crud from around the brakes, and take it out and drive it a bit before adjusting- it'll free up the pivots, pins, and scrape the worst of the corrosion off the brake disk(s). Don't remember, but I think your 102 has external brakes... if so, you should be able to see the friction lining for an easy inspection. Once the rust has scrubbed off, clean up the disks and pads (get the iron dust off 'em), and make adjustments. Do note- if you set the brakes too tight, you'll have brake application preventing you from releasing the clutch properly.

Go clean out and refill the tranny, then drive it some more. When you're done, drive it around a bit, then take it for a drive. Stop to fill it with gas, and drive it a bit more. When you just can't take it any longer, repeat the process...

...then pull it back into the shop, do the brakes, adjust the steering box (or pull it out, tear it down, dip out all the old gooey slime, rinse, reassemble with new grease), readjust the clutch, brakes, tighten all the loose fasteners, etc... and take it for another ride.

BTW- congratulations! Sounds like a trip to a NJ hotel-of-ill-repute gave you the perfect state-of-mind to get the problem solved, and the Cub in the Land of the Living.
buttrock.gif
 

tcbusch

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 14, 2004
Messages
983
displayname
Terry Busch
I found this definition on the web. Every time I pasted it in the posting window it blocked out the second definition as though it was inappropriate. Go figure.... oh well.

How to: "suck some fluid out"
1. Remove the fill plug. Stick a clear flexible tube in the fill hole as far as it will go to hit the bottom of the reservoir. Put your thumb over the other end of the tube and pull it out of the fill hole. Let the oil which should be covering the hose drip and drain on a piece of clean paper and inspect.
2. ***** **** ******** ***** *****
 

mgonitzke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
4,340
Location
Wichita, KS
displayname
Matt Gonitzke
Well, after 7 months of work the creeper out of the donor 100 has been installed in my 128. And it actually works!
eek.gif
While I had it outside I took a couple of pictures 'cause the only one I have of it is from when I got it a year ago...
24550.jpg

24551.jpg
 

krandall

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2006
Messages
233
displayname
Kurt Randall
Got some pics to share with the class...
169 Hand-lift ser.526307
Patient is sedated {so is Surgeon}and ready for reconstructive surgery...
MY FIRST ATTEMPT AT A RESTORATION....
24553.jpg

24554.jpg

24555.jpg

A coulpe hours of surgery later..
24556.jpg

Next step a complete sponge bath...
Back from the car wash..My 200.00 122 with a fresh head gastet is my tow vehicle..
122 is named Odd-Job..
24557.jpg

LEMONY FRESH.....
24558.jpg

Just need to pull front and rear axles and get ready for sanding...CAN"T WAIT FOR PLOW-DAY
 

krandall

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2006
Messages
233
displayname
Kurt Randall
Almost forgot a pic of the new tool box Santa brought me...
24560.jpg

I'm still excited about it..
Wait till she sees how much money it'll take to fill it..
eek.gif
jawdrop.gif
 

dkamp

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2004
Messages
742
displayname
Dave Kamp
Matt- thanks for reminding me- haven't worked on that parts pile I got from 'ya yet!

Nice lookin' WF you've got there... gonna plow with us this spring? BTW... isn't that creeper handle a bit on the short-side? Seems like there's darned little to grab there...

Squirrel- must be kinda drafty in that cub-shack... with it snowin' on the 169 'n all... nice job on the hose-work- you'll appreciate havin' a cleaner shack... easier to hold hardware when it doesn't slither out'a yer hands and get lost in the garage-goo-quagmyre!
biggrin.gif
 

digger

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
IHCC Sponsor
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Messages
15,972
Location
Park Rapids Mn.
displayname
Digger
OH Man! I just gotta.
Dave said!
"Seems like there's darned little to grab there... "

Dint I hear yer wife say that same thing a while back Dave!
 
J

jvinzant

Guest
Hello everyone,

I have been lurking here for the past three years and finally decided to join. I have used tons of information from this board. My son and I have attended the last two PD's here in Illinois and we love it. Thanks for all of the information, humor, and the pictures.
 

lbaker

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2006
Messages
252
displayname
Lyle Baker
Zak- Another thing. When you head for western NC industrial area, watch out as the folks there are not as gullible as where you spent your weak end.
Way to go one the cc. Trial and error.
pop.gif
 

dkamp

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2004
Messages
742
displayname
Dave Kamp
Charlie... You been messin' with my wife again?
You're a lucky man- both my kids look like me!
clappy.gif
 

tcbusch

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 14, 2004
Messages
983
displayname
Terry Busch
I tuned up the one armed 147 with a timing light. I had a heck of a time fining the timing mark so i stuck a piece of sand paper in the timing light hole and cleaned the flywheel. Runs allot better, I would recommend the timing light over the .020 method. I also tweaked the carb settings, I was blowing a little soot out on the loader boom.

I was driving around while adjusting the carb. It was dark so I had the head lights on. I went over a bump and blew my light fuse. I replaced the fuse then went over a bump again and poof, another fuse.
Looks like its time for a new wiring harness. That will be a good new years eve project.

Today we broke a 100 year record. It got to 50 degrees today. Still waiting for snow!
sad.gif
 

bmcmeen

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2002
Messages
2,106
displayname
Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Terry B. -

.020 is a starting point. Not necessarily where the points will be when everything runs properly.

You might try using a paint pen and drawing the mark thru the sight hole. Makes it a lot easier.

So does a Pointsaver - no timing light required AT ALL.
 

dkamp

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2004
Messages
742
displayname
Dave Kamp
Terry- aside from a short, check the fuseholder-wire connection... if the connection isn't absolutely-solid, local heating from the connection will percolate into the fuse, causing it to soften... a little bump, and bye-bye.

If all you're concerned with is short-protection, install a fuse that's about 35% HIGHER than your present fuse... a short circuit will run the current surge to about 300%, blowing the fuse good.
 
S

sogle

Guest
hey just wondering guys do you paint your own cubs or have it done ? thinking of restoring my 108 but not sure about painting.never have restored one myself

(Message edited by sogle on December 30, 2004)
 
S

sogle

Guest
me again also need to rebuild my motor I found a guy that will rebuid for about $600 including a new cam ,rod ,piston, rings,valves ,valve guides,and boring was going to do it myself but never mest with a kohler only briggs.I've heard kohler is a harder motor to rebuild

(Message edited by sogle on December 30, 2004)
 

pvolner

Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
13
displayname
Phillip Volner
$600 sounds pretty high for rebuilding. I think the K series Kohler is the easiest motor to work on there is.
 

pvolner

Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
13
displayname
Phillip Volner
I've seen alot of cubs painted with a spray can that looked pretty darn good. You can also buy new decals to finish the job.
 
S

sogle

Guest
thinks for the reply I wondered how hard it is to get the crank out of these motors I might just try to rebuid it myself.is it a good idea to change the cam out or not ? I've been told they will make noise if you don't.I don't think this motor has ever been opened up.
 

sblunier

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
4,826
displayname
Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Stacy,

You don't need to change the cam if it hasn't been damaged...you DO have to SHIM the cam to the proper spec., or it will rattle when the helical gears load/unload and sound like the engine has a knock. Shims come in .005 and .010 thicknesses....process is easy and is outlined in the Kohler K series manual...$10 at your dealer, or free download form Kohler.
 
Top