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New Member from NC - Cub 1864

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The 48" and 54" decks have wide lift forks. I don't see them in that picture. I agree it's flipped but looks like the narrow 44/50 forks.
Hello Cubs!

I know it has been a while since my last post. I had a radiator replacement I had to do on my old car. I hate when those things interfere with tractor time. I also went to the NC state fair where they had an IH Cub Cadet section. They had 20+ tractors that looked great! I snapped a few pictures. These are my two cubs with the Cubs ;)

I took a trip up north about an hour to visit @Rich Donohue. Let me drop a small note about Rich. He's an awesome, patriotic American. He's a veteran. He's an engineer who built his own home. He used to build cars. I truly enjoyed meeting and chatting with him and his wife. He has a couple of Cub projects he is working on if anyone else is interested. Due to age and some other circumstances he is unable to continue to put in his time in this labor of love. Feel free to reach out to him.

We had a great chat and Rich sold me his 50c deck that was in good shape. I took off the deck cover and cleaned it out. Upon belt inspection, I noticed there were a few cracks so I have ordered a replacement belt. While I was working on the deck (kind of heavy) attempting to grease the spindles, the deck's wheels rolled back and the deck fell onto itself with my grease gun still attached. :mad: This was stupid on my part. This caused the grease fitting on the double spindle to break off. The tiny spring inside of the zerk/grease fitting remains. Now I need to remove the old fitting and press on a new one or tap and install a new threaded one. Dumb, dumb, dumb.

The lift appears that it might fit. I need to get the new belts and attempt to connect the deck and see what happens. If the lift doesn't fit, then I'll be in the market for one.

Thanks for the read and happy Monday fellow Cubs!


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Hello fellow Cubs!

November is here!! I hope everyone is doing well and now it's time for the 1864 update.

Before I start, I know that it is veteran's day. For all the veterans out there, thank you for your sacrifice and service. You have all my respect and admiration.

On to the details... I started to replace hydraulic fluid on the cub but was awaiting the back order of Cub Cadet HyTrans fluid (4 week delay). Once I started I realized that the lines on the hydraulic lift were pretty crunchy. In fact, one broke when I grabbed it for the test. I was also afraid that the lift would cause those to burst so I replaced the hydraulic lift with used-new lines with an ebay replacement.

When I pulled the back plate off of the differential I noticed that there was a half gallon of water that came out first and then some sludge along with hytrans fluid. I pushed the seat forward and noticed the hydraulic fluid lid was open and probably had been for some time. While pushing the seat forward and out of the way I noticed the seat slides were in bad shape. I pulled them off and added them to the to-do list. I met a nice fellow Cub Cadet owner through fb and he had a set of slides as well as a couple of newer bulk head brackets. Ordered and replaced.

When I was underneath the Cub I noticed that the skid plate was completely rusted at the edges. I jumped on ebay and found the exact part for a few bucks so I decided to pick it up while I could. I will install this part this weekend.

While underneath the tractor I inspected the lift mechanism and noticed that the ferrules that connect the lift to the tractor were in bad shape and the one on the left had completely rusted off and was missing. I have since purchased a couple of newer ones and will install those this weekend. I took the lift attachment outside and set it on top of the deck that Rich sold me and the lift fits perfectly. I'm very pleased with this but I'm also going to continue to look for a 46 or 54 gt. I reached out to the gentleman on FB who has the 54" gt and he's willing to hang on to it for me until I can either head up there or meet him half way. That's currently the plan. I'll rebuild the 42" deck slowly and use the 50c in the meantime.

While I had the wheels off, I noticed the brake wasn't springing back into place like I wanted so I took a few minutes to tighten up the brake linkages on both sides. This was pretty straight-foward but awkward because of the location of the rear fender and the left/right step panels join exactly where the pin for the linkage connects. Pulling the cotter pins, lubing the threaded linkage, tightening, and then reinstalling seemed easy enough. Now the brakes feel better.

I have used a simple degreaser and a scrubber to bring the paint around. I'm pretty pleased as the yellow color has returned. Even the wife complemented with, "doesn't even look like the same tractor".

When inspecting the front head lights I noticed that the plastic posts or studs for the head light mounts were broken. I used epoxy and re-glued them back down. I have reinstalled the lights. While diagnosing my lights issue I noticed that only a single light was on and when I was testing the other light with the working light's wires I accidentally touched them together which caused something to happen where the electronics are no longer functioning. This happened last night and I will investigate this tonight/weekend.

Work Completed:
- hydraulic fluid changed
- hydraulic lift swapped
- fixed rear tail lights
- fixed head lights
- fixed the seat slides / reinstalled the seat
- bulk head bracket replacements

Work Planned:
- install skid plate
- install ferrules into deck lift
- install hub caps again
- install cyclops grid style grill
- install instrument panel cover
- fix electrical problem :( :( :( (hopefully this is a 20A fuse that I have found)
- reinstall steering wheel with new cub logo'd cap
- fix the head light that isn't working

Now a question for the advanced members around here. I saw the voltage regulator and the part seems to be in rough shape as the rust has covered the casing completely. Do you happen to know what the regulator does, how important it is, and where to find a decent replacement? Can I test it and figure out if it is working?

I"m sure I'm missing a few details but thanks for reading! Have a great weekend!


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The voltage regulator on these is actually a voltage rectifier, since the voltage created by the stator and the spinning flywheel with the series of magnets creates AC voltage, and the tractor is 12V DC. A simple test is with a hand held voltmeter. Place the neg/pos leads on the appropriate posts of the battery at rest and record the voltage. It should be 12.6-12.8 volts DC minimum. Now start the engine and then record your new readings. It should be reading 13.8-14.2 volts DC depending on engine speed, ambient temperature, and accessory load, which if the lights and PTO are off should be minimal. If your readings are off either way, then more troubleshooting is required. You would then test AC Voltage at the rectifier/regulator plug from the stator. You should see 40V AC at high engine speed. If that checks out, then most likely the rectifier/regulator is faulty. Make sure all mounting points and connections are clean and tight.
WOW, Kenny
I got so tired just reading all the work you accomplished, I had to go lay down.............still lookin' for someonr to adopt my 190-376-100 54" blade, my 1811 Cub, and IH Cub 1000, and thanks for the plug. (think I'll go back and lay down again)
@1811Cub Thanks for the tips. I tested voltage of the battery and it registered at 12.8v when the engine wasn't running. When I started the engine, I tested the voltage at the posts and saw 12.8. Not much changed. I'm guess I probably need a new voltage rectifier/regulator. Could you point me at the stator you mentioned in your previous post? I'd like to ensure that is working properly. Thanks for taking your time to help out.

My PTO is also misbehaving. I replaced the PTO switch. This seemed simple enough but when engaging the PTO the PTO starts spinning but quickly stops when the switch moves to the center position.

I am have been scouring the forums regarding diagnosing PTO issues.

Things I've tried:
- cleaning terminals
- fixing attachments at the relay
- pulled the single wire off the PTO and tested it for ohms. registered 3 ohms.

Just tested the seat switch (violet wires) and noticed there was no click on the switch when depressed. I jumped the connectors with a small wire and the PTO stays engaged. This is a major relief as the other path is much more expensive.
The stator is located under the flywheel. A common problem is the magnets coming loose from the flywheel. If they are intact, they can be JB Welded in place.
I'm back to PTO problems this morning.

PTO engages when I engage the switch to the upward position. As soon as the switch hits the middle position the PTO disengages. The mower will not start in this position (I found out after stopping the mower and trying to start again).

- I bypassed the seat switch and verified this with continuity
- I measured the ohms at 1.8 (to a nut on the engine), 3 at the negative battery terminal. I'm not sure if I'm doing this right because the PTO has only a single wire going to it.
- I connected a wire from the positive terminal directly to the PTO clutch cable and listened to it engage and disengage.

I was looking at the schematic and following the wires. I see the brown wire leave the relay and travel all the way to the PTO clutch(tested with continuity to verify this is same wire). I did not see a reverse relay or a reverse switch. I did see a switch next to the shifter on the underside of the panel. I removed it, tested it. Looks like it is working.

Any hints on how to proceed with troubleshooting?

Also, as I was working around the harnesses I noticed that this had broken from being extremely brittle. Anyone know what this connector is? (Looks like #2 in the indicator harness as it is the orange cable as well as the location on the plug. RP 606 on the connector).


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Before you go putting the spindles back together, I would get a package each of 0.005" and 0.010" arbor shims from McMaster-Carr so you can more precisely shim the bearings. That spacer between them ends ups wearing if the spindle is is not torqued correctly, and it is really not optimally set up from the factory. You want them such that when everything is torqued, there is no play yet no drag on the spindle when it is rotated.

You can look up parts diagrams here to see what is different between the 42" and 54" deck and subframe. Replacement Parts & Service | Cub Cadet US
What is the proper torque on the blade nut once I am putting it all back together?

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