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New Member from NC - Cub 1864

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Kenny - welcome to the best Cub Cadet Forum on the Internet. Your 1864 is a CCC made machine which is way past my knowledge. What I do know is that Carolina Red Rust is a real killer, and the PA rust ain't much better and usually comes with pitting. I'd probably be looking in VA, MD, NJ and southern parts of NY and CT. Lot better chance of something still usable in these parts.
Guess I've not encountered any conditions yet where I thought I needed more flotation with thrower on. I also havent had a 451 on anything so i may change my mind? But I bet the 5 rib do look good on there.

The 451 is heavy and I couldn't hardly move without (2) 100 lb weights on the back end, even then, it wasn't any too much. Still had the turf tires on back and no other rear weight
I thought that I was doing pretty good, then the neighbor came over and threw snow twice as far with his single stage :(

He was a talented fabricator (and prolific) gone now, I fell heir to a couple of his creations, I'm not sure I know how to hook up one of them, He loved building attachments for small tractors.............................He never had CC though.
Just came through Raleigh Friday evening on my way back from Hatteras.
You can find a deck much closer than that if you have a little patience. Check facebook marketplace and craigslist often. One will pop up. I would be cautious with greedbay. I have some old old decks that fit the early models. Don't know if they would work on yours. Maybe someone could elaborate on this some. I could do way better than $250 if one would work.
I just read your last post and found out we ARE really neighbors.... Creedmoor is only 20 minutes north of Crabtree Valley Mall in Raleigh... straight up Rt 50.
Anyway, I intend to sell all of my unfinished projects. the 1812 deck was in use a few months ago and presumably is still in good shape, I also have a push blade for that tractor. the 1812 tractor is also in pretty good shape but spits oil out of the left head into the muffler. (Package deal could be quite good) The 124 has a factory rebuilt 12 hp Kohler, new clutch, hand-operated brake, and was in the process of being rewired when I suddenly became old.
Hey there Kenny,
I just read your last message and found out that we ARE neighbors. Creedmoor is only 20 minutes north of Crabtree Valley Mall on Rt 50 .....
Anyway, I intend to sell ALL my unfinished projects 1812 tractor (blows oil out left hand exhaust port), mower deck (it was used sucessfully this time last year, and push blade. The 124 has a factory rebuilt 12 hp Kohler engine, new clutch, hand operated brake, and was in the process of being rewired. Prices will be good (especially when bundled).
Happy Saturday fellow Cubs!

After an evening of propane torch, breaker bar, impact, gear puller, and a few choice words... I was able to remove the blades from the 42" deck. The issue is that I cannot remove the nut from the spindle. I don't want to damage it as I believe the grease fitting still works and they are $70 a piece. I could cut the nut off at this point and try to reuse and refurbish or I can purchase.

Any suggestions on removing those nuts? Would a double nut on the opposite side hold it in place while I work on the opposite side?

New spindles are going to be $250 (x2). Wonder if that's just not the way to go.

Thanks for reading!


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Ken, if it were mine...I would get next to serious heat, propane is not enough...I would also not be afraid to cut the nut with a 4 1/2 side wheel being very carefull not to get into threads then splitting the nuts with a chisel from the end ..you've got at least 1 flat showing on the bolt to help hold it in a vise...my first choice would be cherry red from accy... double nut is probably not going to hold if propane did no good but anything that doesn't ruin threads is worth a try....I would try every avenue before buying new spindle bolts
Getting it hot fast, seems to work much better, getting the nut hot faster than the shaft it is on.........................so cutting torch is the way to go. A propane torch is slow and will heat it up too evenly, not expanding the nut more than the shaft.
If you have lots of time, Kroil
I'd try double-nutting the other side and then see if you can back them off with an impact. The threads look pretty messed up, so I'd fix that before reassembly.

If the spindle housings are good, it will be cheaper to just rebuild the existing ones, even if you need new or good used spindle shafts. The bearings are very inexpensive.
Use a cutting torch and get ONE side of the nut red hot and turn it off. ay have to heat it again after full cool down. Only want to heat one side of the nut to expand it away from the threads. The faster you get the one side of the nut hot the better. Threads look stretched form using an impact to tighten them. Torque wrench only. Good luck
Hey Kenny,
Welcome aboard!
I owned a 1860 and 1862 and they were great tractors.
I believe the following decks will fit;
190 317 100 48"
190 320 100 42"
190 323 100 54"
There is currently a 54" on Ebay for $650 just for reference, nice shape but too far from you.
I bought a clean 48" for my brother a year ago that was really solid for $300.
Looks like you've made great progress already, good luck!
I have the 54 on my 1862 and love it. When mowing the deck carries on the deck wheels and not the lifitng frame.
@PACub100 Does that 54" require a larger or different mule drive? I spoke with a Cub rep at ihccw website and they mentioned that the 38 and 42 inch decks work with the same mule drive and then the larger ones required a different one. Might be the narrow vs regular. I'll defer to other experts here on this one.

I reached out to the lady selling the deck and awaiting to hear back.

In the meantime, I was able to remove the bolts from the spindles. I used my grinder, vice, baby sledge, cold chisels, and my breaker bar. At this point, it was personal...

Now to figure out how to rebuild the spindles with bearings or purchase a used deck or both!!

Thanks for following the journey!


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