Archive through July 31, 2013

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David Stevens,

Are you running the correct filter on it? Some companies <font size="-2">fram</font> spec the wrong filter that has a anti-drainback valve in the filter.

Remove the filter and fill, as Don T said, remove check valves, add fluid into the holes, check the valve to be sure they're not stuck open, and replace.

Is the shaft going into the pump turning?

 

[digger]

Personally I'd like to see a demonstration video on how you fill up a filter and install it horizontally! LOL

 

[sshaff]

Daniel -- Thanks!

 

[stanner]

Very carefully and quickly....LOL.....

 

[kide]

Charlie - I've got an 8 foot braced boom "jib hoist" about 13 foot up in my barn. I use a HF 1400 lb electric winch on the end. I've accidently pulled the ZTR up to where it was pivoting on the trailer hitch - while the filter would be vertical, if I picked the 129 up by it tail, I suppose I could fill the filter and spin it on, obviously before filling the rear end....

 

[dtanner]

Charlie "Digger" Proctor

That video would be very boring lol. I pre-fill every filter on anything I use. You wont loose much of the fluid because it has to run out the center of the filter. so when you pick it up filled (that will take some time because the fluid will be adsorbed slowly) as soon as a few threads are used installing the filter you won`t loose much . the benefit of per filling is your pump will get fluid much quicker and will not be run dry as long as it would take the fluid to fill a dry filter and then get to the suction line to the pump. I also fill from the check valve holes to lesson the time the pump and swash plate can run dry.

 

[jboelens]

Does anyone know the proper white for brinly attachements? I'm pretty sure that it is more "white" than the IH 935.

 

[digger]

John B.
Wimbolton White or IH 935 are pretty much considered proper replacements for Brinly white.

Under Edit,
The folks at Brinly are still trying to find the PROPER color and when they started using it.

 

[mkopishke]

Dennis Frisk:

It took me a few days but your idea to slip the clutch for a bit on my 122 has at least temporarily solved my problem.

Not to say it wont come back but I drove it around for a while tonight and it didn't stick once!

Thanks!

 

[dfrisk]

MATTHEW K. - After the clutch plates get a good soaking of water from pressure washing, the heat from the slipping clutch plates drives the water out, and shines up the friction plates. The sticking clutch should not come back until the next time the clutch gets soaked with water.

CHARLIE - I'd like to see that filled filter install video too! I think it would remind me of some old "Three Stooges" videos. I disagree with DON T. I pre-fill the 1-1/2 quart filter on my PSD every oil change, I pour 15W-40 oil in the large center hole and the oil seeps thru the filter media quickly and fills the outside space of the filter so the oil could leak out the row of 6-8 holes around the large threaded center hole until the o-ring seals on the filter base. Luckily the PSD's oil filter is vertical, base to the top, so no oil leakage. Hy-Tran is equivalent to 10W, it should run thru the filter media much faster.

And when hoisting a CC by the rear, DO NOT FORGET to install wedges between the frame & front axle as described in the "Splitting Instructions" in the service manual. Once both rear wheels are off the ground, the whole tractor can pivot on the frt axle and could "Capsize". If you raised the tractor by using nylon straps around each rear axle you may avoid the tipping problem, but I'd still install the wedges.

Personally, I've never had a problem with a Sundstrand 15U hydro priming itself after a fluid & filter change. Drain the rearend, remove the old filter, wet the new filter's o-ring with clean Hy-Tran & install, add 7+ quarts of fresh Hy-Tran, let the tractor sit for a couple hours, start the engine and it primes instantly. Has worked on both the old tired 129 & 982.

 

[jboelens]

Charlie, I was curious about the original color as all of my attachments are faded to a deeper crème color. This gets me a good start. Thanks!

 

[dschwandt]

Marty G, The bottom looks to me like original. Has some traces of red paint on it and there is a round groove cut the length of it on the under side where the mount holes are. I was told it was from a combine or such and that the holder is for an oil can.

I spied this at a flea market the past wekend and first thing that popped into my mind was Frank and the holes in his 169 fender!!HaHa!!

I have a 1450 that had a cab of sorts on it at one time and has SIX holes in each fender. I figured this would cover half of 'em!!

Dave S.

 

[kide]

Dennis: You mean like the 11th picture in Cubfaq 94?

I agree on the filter spilling - never been able to take a full one off without dumping oil, either..

David: IHC might have intended on an oil can, but I would have expected to see two crescent wrenches, a hammer, some wire, a plug socket and a couple of used plugs, a really dirty, oily rag and part of a petrified sandwich in there...

 

[kmcconaughey]

David Stevens, lets do a little trouble shooting. Did the problem with forward and reverse appear before or after you drained and replaced the fluid? If it appeared before the fluid change it's likely due to damage of some sort, especially considering the appearance of "...bits and shavings of brass..." If the problem appeared before the fluid change was it in operation when it happened, as in you were mowing along happily and it suddenly stopped, or was it at start up setting in your garage? Was the 682 towed just prior to the problem appearing?

 

[fcurrier]

Gerry: Re Cubfaq #94:

 

[kostendorf]

What is the difference between QA42 and QA42A snow throwers?

 

[kostendorf]

Nevermind , found it.

The thrower is basically the same, the difference is in the mount that goes on the tractor. The QA basic mount is a 1 piece fixed width mount to fit the narrow frame (about 11" wide), and the QA xx-A/QA xx-B has an adjustable width 3 piece mount to fit both the narrow or wide frame (about 13" or so).

 

[pbell]

Dennis, Matthew K,
In this case a pressure washer was involved, but if the tractor sits for a period of time, the clutch disc does not have to get "soaked" for it to stick/rust to the pressure plates. Neither of you probably have the high humidity that we have in the south, but it is not uncommon for the clutch to stick on tractors that are seldom used (such as trailer queens) even if they are parked inside out of the weather, just from the high humidity. Originals are really bad about the clutch sticking, and I guarantee if it sticks, and you don't check it before starting the tractor, you will run into something before you can shut it off (I won't tell you which early "0" I learned that on). I always park tractors that are going to sit for awhile with the clutch pedal locked down, and always check the clutch to be sure the disc is not stuck to one of the pressure plates before starting the tractor to be sure the clutch is free.......specially on "O's"

 

[dstevens]

The transmission doesn't roll freely with the engine off, it rolls a couple of feet then locks up with the engine off. I towed it on a trailer recently before it stopped working. I am using the recommended Hytran fluid. I was told that those brass filings are probably from one or more of the slippers on the pistons... and that the pump is TOASTED. So I guess it is time to replace the pump.

 

[stanner]

David,
all the more reason to inspect the check valves. your machine should have the auto release type, IIRC...

when you changed the fluid, did you remove the rear cover and get a lookey-see of the gears?