Archive through May 31, 2008

[kwingerson]

Well, lots of activity with no progress today. Sort of like the political world ;-)

My 149 continues to run great for about 30-40 minutes and then power just disappears. I put a carb kit on today, completely removing all pieces, replacing the seat, needle, gaskets and finally remounting on the engine.

I checked out the fuel tank and it looked good, even blew through the fuel line into the tank to clear the screen filter where the gas exits the tank.

I gapped the new plug to the manual spec. This Cub has a new coil on it with less than 1 hour run time. I have not monkeyed with the points or condenser, since it runs so good for 30-40 minutes of mowing.

It does vent smoke from the engine (blow-by) after running for 5 - 10 minutes so I guess it needs rings.

Locally I've heard - add an inline fuel filter. Maybe there's moisture in the tank. Better buy 91 octane, not the regular stuff.

Any more ideas on why it goes from great to "better park it quick" so suddenly? I'm stumped, and I don't like the thought of getting anything else - that none of my attachments would fit. But I've got to get mowing done... completely.

Thanks!
Kent

 

[digger]

Kent W.
I had a 149 do that once, cleaned up the points and changed the condenser and all was good again.
Course it could be a sticking valve too. Do you run MMO or Seafoam?

 

[kwingerson]

Charlie: MMO or Seafoam ?? I must really be out of the loop since this doesn't mean anything to me. Call me "embarrassed"...

 

[bbrigham]

JimT, I'll add this here too so others could benefit from this if they choose. Of course I forgot to mention beveling the mating surfaces for welding.

 

[junderwood]

Kent,
MMO - Marvel Mystery Oil and Seafoam are gas additives that help to clean the carbon build uo out of an engine and can free up stuck valves and rings. They are also great for every tank of fuel to keep the engine clean. Follow the mixing directions on the bottle and run a few tanks of fuel through through to see if it helps.

 

[tsmoker]

Kent,

MMO is Marvel Mystery Oil and can be found about anywhere. Seafoam can be found at some auto parts stores and some hardware stores. Both are additives for your gas. they clean carbon from engine and lubricate valves and such. instructions are on the cans for mixing. Give it a try.

 

[kwingerson]

Charlie, John, Tom:

I have heard of MMO, now that you've used the entire name, but never tried it. Up to now, there didn't seem to be a reason, and I've been running this 149 for a very long time. I'll do it asap...

Kind of like the sound of Seafoam - being located in Kansas. Although, wasn't there a Professor Marvel character in the "Wizard of Oz"?

And, I'll get after the points and condenser.

Thanks!
Kent}

 

[mgonitzke]

Picked up a couple of interesting things today...

I hope I didn't pay too much for that cart. It's really rusty, but the only one I've seen at auction around here in 6 years. I think I got it cheap enough. It's complete, but there isn't much of the tailgate left.

 

[theaton]

Matt G, nice find on the IH cart, and blower. I have not to this day seen ANY "cub stuff" for sale in my neck of the woods. Spotted some cubs, but alas not for sale. I am sure you can fab a new tailgate, if there is enough of the gate left to use as a template.

 

[wcompton]

Matt-
If you get a chance, I wouldn't mind seeing more pictures of that shredder. I picked up a shredder made to mount on a green tractor that I was never able to get rid of. I'm starting to wonder that maybe I can mount a small kohler to power it.

 

[kide]

Kent W:
If all else fails, check the valve clearances - old flathead engines will have the valves recess into the block due to a combination of wear on the seating area of the valve and the valve seat. This will close up the valve stem to cam clearance to the point where once the valve becomes hot, it won't seat properly , you lose compression and the engine won't stay running or restart until cool. Not as common as some of the other issues but BTDT (GTTSNAR)..

 

[mmarion]

Kent
Check your fuel line. Try to re-route it to an area away from any heat source. Sometimes, when fuel lines are subject to heat, the fuel will boil inside the line (vapor lock). Also, I would check your head bolt torque. A friend's machine had the same sympoms a few years back. After running the engine it too would lose power and quit. The head bolts were expanding, causing leakage at gasket. Replaced the head gasket and bolts, still running great.

 

[dhassler]

Head gasket replacement 101, thanks guys for the advice on how to replace the head gasket on my kohler K241. Also, the advice on how to sand down the face of the head worked like a charm. It was a fun little project and I was happy that I didn't have to remove the engine from the frame. Everything worked out great and there is no more oil leakage from the head.
You can see over to the right where the oil was leaking.

See the nice buddle of oil on the right.

Lots of carbon to remove.

An hour worth of sanding with 220 grit.

The end result.

And the clean up of the piston valve area.

 

[kide]

Way to go Dave !
Didn't have a mill - we took .030 off the head of a Cushman with a belt sander, then about 3000 laps on a piece of plate glass with valve grinding compound to get it flat. (can't understand that tendonitis in my right elbow....). Used machinist's bluing to check on how flat it was. I've done the lapping without the "hillbilly milling" on just about every flathead (including the 129s) that I have apart.

 

[kwingerson]

Kendell & Michael,

Whew, we are getting into mechanical areas I don't have the experience / skills to address - valves. Possibly the head gasket and bolts are within my abilities.

I might be needing to scope out a small engine repair shop... ?

Thanks,
Kent

 

[kide]

Kent:
If you haven't already done so, (and have a decent Internet connection) download the free Kohler manual - see FAQ #6 on the Frequently Asked Questions link at the top of the page to see where to get the manual. While adjusting the valves is trickier, just checking the clearances is about two bolts more than pulling the head (actually you don't need to pull the head to just check valve clearances). Reading the Kohler manual, they seem to be more concerned about clearances opening up rather than closing. Probably more likely that the valve is sticking open, but I thought I'd pass the too close clearance problem along as the symptoms match that problem, also.

 

[bjohnson]

Can someone out there in Cub land describe to me in words and/or pictures how the hydraulic valve is mounted in the 1X9 tractors? I have the parts for adding hydraulics to my 129, but cannot figure out how to mount the valve. Thanks!!!!

 

[kwingerson]

Kendell,

I have a Kohler single cylinder service manual (rev. # 5-73) with a blue cover, dealing with K91, 141, 161, 181, 241, 301, 321, 341. I have it because it came with the 149 when I got it used.

Incidentally, I'm on my 3rd Vespa scooter since 1972.

Thanks,
Kent

 

[blanasa]

Does anyone have any tips on setting up and using a disc behind my 125?
Thanks, Brian L

 

[digger]

Brian J.
Your situation is a real testament to why a manual is a must.
CLICK HERE