Kirk Engines, Inc Cub Cadet Used Parts CADET CONNECTION Cub Cadet Specialties Cub Cadet Specialties

2084 Super Garden Tractor won't stay running/gas vanished!

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

taylorbirkey

Active member
Joined
May 18, 2021
Messages
33
Location
Oswego, IL
displayname
Taylor
Okay, I started up my new (old) 2084 SGT today to mow for the second ever time since I bought it a couple weeks ago. Checked the oil, filled with new clean gas. Started right up.

I mowed for about 10 minutes at 75" throttle and then it died on me.
  • I can get it to start at low throttle and it'll run for up to 30 seconds but then it'll die.
  • One of the times I started it it backfired.
  • It'll die immediately if I give it more throttle.
  • Tried starting with the air cleaner taken off, did not fix the issue.
  • I checked the gas tank and the gas is gone! It's a 5gal tank and it's at least half, if not 2/3s depleted. Where'd all that gas go?!
  • Everything looks dry, I don't see any leaks anywhere.
  • Oil on dipstick is really thin, but engine is hot so I'm going to check it again when it cools off. Could gas have gotten into oil system?!
Help! This old tractor is kicking my butt right now. I mowed all 2 acres of my property a week ago and had none of these issues.
 

digger

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
IHCC Sponsor
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jun 22, 2002
Messages
15,430
Location
Park Rapids Mn.
displayname
Digger
Okay, I started up my new (old) 2084 SGT today to mow for the second ever time since I bought it a couple weeks ago. Checked the oil, filled with new clean gas. Started right up.

I mowed for about 10 minutes at 75" throttle and then it died on me.
  • I can get it to start at low throttle and it'll run for up to 30 seconds but then it'll die.
  • One of the times I started it it backfired.
  • It'll die immediately if I give it more throttle.
  • Tried starting with the air cleaner taken off, did not fix the issue.
  • I checked the gas tank and the gas is gone! It's a 5gal tank and it's at least half, if not 2/3s depleted. Where'd all that gas go?!
  • Everything looks dry, I don't see any leaks anywhere.
  • Oil on dipstick is really thin, but engine is hot so I'm going to check it again when it cools off. Could gas have gotten into oil system?!
Help! This old tractor is kicking my butt right now. I mowed all 2 acres of my property a week ago and had none of these issues.
If you'll smell the oil on the dipstick, you'll find it smells like gas.
Either the float/needle/seat in the carb is messed up or the fuel pump is leaking and dumping gas in the engine.
If it's the fuel pump, dump it and go with electric and forget that mechanical piece of crap.
 

taylorbirkey

Active member
Joined
May 18, 2021
Messages
33
Location
Oswego, IL
displayname
Taylor
If it's the fuel pump, dump it and go with electric and forget that mechanical piece of crap.
Got it. So there’s an electric fuel pump I could put in? Any chance you could help me with a part number or a place to look for the replacement?
 

mgonitzke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
3,974
Location
Wichita, KS
displayname
Matt Gonitzke
Facet 40177 is the closest electric pump to the output of the original mechanical or vacuum operated pumps. Cheapest price I was able to find on them was Pegasus Auto Racing's website.

In case it wasn't obvious, if it turns out there is gas in the oil, don't run it again until you change the oil and filter.
 

taylorbirkey

Active member
Joined
May 18, 2021
Messages
33
Location
Oswego, IL
displayname
Taylor
I use this one.
Facet 40177 is the closest electric pump to the output of the original mechanical or vacuum operated pumps. Cheapest price I was able to find on them was Pegasus Auto Racing's website.
My 2084 is running a Kohler Command 20 and this is my current pump. Is that Facet 40177 still the best option?
 

Attachments

mgonitzke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
3,974
Location
Wichita, KS
displayname
Matt Gonitzke
That is a vacuum pump. Could be rebuilt, but the electric pump I mentioned is still the way I would go. You will need to remove the fitting for the vacuum line in the end cover and plug it with an 1/8" NPT pipe plug when you do the swap.

It probably wouldn't hurt to rebuild the carb too. There are aftermarket kits all over the place for them for $15 or so.
 

taylorbirkey

Active member
Joined
May 18, 2021
Messages
33
Location
Oswego, IL
displayname
Taylor
Update. I had a day off today and spent most of it working on the 2084. My goodness, was it dirty. I changed the oil and oil filter. Replaced the fuel filter. Pulled off and cleaned the existing vacuum fuel pump (didn't look that bad but still didn't work afterward). Gas running through was clean. How do I test that the pump is working/not working again? Turn the ignition while the upper (outflow) gas hose coming off the pump is disconnected to see what sort of flow (if any) is coming out? Don't I need to disconnect the spark plugs or something to do that?
D0CEFF78-8925-4E21-90F5-B903C8615715_1_105_c.jpeg

6035925E-361B-49B9-AF92-44EB122E240A_1_105_c.jpeg

I took off the air filter and got at the carburetor and WOW was it dirty. Holy cow.
50E8BD37-614A-478E-B8BA-9D6CED89F2A0_1_105_c.jpeg
AD793DA7-2A71-4118-BC29-BF205212BC3F_1_105_c.jpeg
6CC8BDC9-0EE9-49D7-97F5-5D8644378D39_1_105_c.jpeg
64941696-C184-4004-846A-BCAC85ECFD3D_1_105_c.jpeg

Got the carb apart and cleaned it as best as I could. Top was in okay shape, floats worked fine. It was mostly the exterior that was dirty. But there was a lot of gunk in the lower part of the carb. Spark plugs were bad too so I replaced those.
F89D5F40-27A3-4D10-8AAF-32ECF932A1A3_1_105_c.jpeg

Unfortunately at the end of all that, the tractor still won't run. It'll start up and then die. Fuel isn't getting to the carb. I ordered the Facet 40177 electrical pump. Hoping that will finally get me back rolling. Until then, at least my lawn has a racing stripe ;) Really hoping I can figure this out before Memorial Day...
E9C70546-846B-4262-9CBB-192388B0E02F_1_105_c.jpeg
 

mgonitzke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
3,974
Location
Wichita, KS
displayname
Matt Gonitzke
The diaphragm on the fuel pump looks like it has failed, or is about to.

Given how dirty the engine is, I would pull the engine and remove the flywheel shroud, etc and clean everything up. It is pretty common to have the flywheel end crannk seal go bad and then the whole outside of the engine gets oiled. These engines tend to run on the ragged edge of overheating due to how lean the carb is set for emissions requirements, so the engine being clean is essential for proper cooling. Make sure it doesn't have any other oil leaks or a blown or weeping head gasket too.
 

bpientka

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2010
Messages
311
displayname
Bernie Pientka
I am not up on the 2084 but it looks like there is a fuel shut off solenoid on the carb? I have seen a few of these fail to completely operate. Basically they only crack open a tiny bit. This then allows the engine to start but it quickly runs out of fuel because the fuel line is not open.

You could remove the solenoid and make sure it is clean and will operate. Also another simple test is to rig up a fuel tank higher than the engine. This would remove the need for a fuel pump as gravity would supply the fuel. If the motor still dies something more is going on than the fuel pump. I agree with matt that the current diaphram looks bad.

good luck!
 
Last edited:

kmcconaughey

Keeper of the Photos
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
17,664
Location
Wisconsin
displayname
Kraig McConaughey
Bernie, good suggestion. My neighbor's XT1 has that shut off solenoid on the carb. I fixed it for him, not sure exactly what I did to fix it..., but it appeared to be sticking shut. I removed it and made sure it was working then reinstalled it and all was well. :drool2:

Because I like this photo, here's his XT1 next to my Original. (Yes, the hood on my Original is dented, was that way when I got it and I decided to leave it as is when I refurbished it.)

New-Old.jpg
 

gary noblit

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jul 22, 2020
Messages
555
Location
jonesville,mi.
Carb solenoid simple test...12v to wire input,ground to body.If it clicks it's working.If not remove and watch. sol stem should retract when volts are applied.If it doesn't move at all it's faulty. Most stems have a rubber cap on them,if removed the carb doesn't care and fuel will flow but should NOT be a permanent fix.
 

taylorbirkey

Active member
Joined
May 18, 2021
Messages
33
Location
Oswego, IL
displayname
Taylor
I am not up on the 2084 but it looks like there is a fuel shut off solenoid on the carb? I have seen a few of these fail to completely operate. Basically they only crack open a tiny bit. This then allows the engine to start but it quickly runs out of fuel because the fuel line is not open.
Carb solenoid simple test...12v to wire input, ground to body.If it clicks it's working.If not remove and watch. sol stem should retract when volts are applied.If it doesn't move at all it's faulty. Most stems have a rubber cap on them,if removed the carb doesn't care and fuel will flow but should NOT be a permanent fix.
Thanks for this. I now have the Facet 40177 electrical fuel pump in hand. I'm going to install that, and also remove/clean/test the solenoid.
 

taylorbirkey

Active member
Joined
May 18, 2021
Messages
33
Location
Oswego, IL
displayname
Taylor
Okay friends, update time...
You could remove the solenoid and make sure it is clean and will operate. Also another simple test is to rig up a fuel tank higher than the engine. This would remove the need for a fuel pump as gravity would supply the fuel. If the motor still dies something more is going on than the fuel pump. I agree with matt that the current diaphram looks bad.
Bernie, good suggestion. My neighbor's XT1 has that shut off solenoid on the carb. I fixed it for him, not sure exactly what I did to fix it..., but it appeared to be sticking shut. I removed it and made sure it was working then reinstalled it and all was well. :drool2:
Carb solenoid simple test...12v to wire input,ground to body.If it clicks it's working.If not remove and watch. sol stem should retract when volts are applied.If it doesn't move at all it's faulty. Most stems have a rubber cap on them, if removed the carb doesn't care and fuel will flow but should NOT be a permanent fix.
Today I installed a Facet 40177 electrical fuel pump. I tapped into the fuel solenoid circuit for power (see photo below). I also took the solenoid out and cleaned it—it was working properly via 12V test.
IMG_2692.JPG

The carb is now totally cleaned and checks out. New fuel pump installed (vacuum pump deleted and plugged) and wired up. The tractor started up and idled without shutting off! I let it run idle for 5 mins or so, then throttled up and pulled out of the driveway. THEN IT DIED AGAIN. Will not stay running again. I can't believe it.

Help?
 

lpalma

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 19, 2008
Messages
943
Location
new jersey
displayname
Lewis Palma
Didja check the fuse? You never mention in any of your post if you checked the 2 fuel shutoffs on the tank, didja clean them? They do clog up.
 

kmcconaughey

Keeper of the Photos
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
17,664
Location
Wisconsin
displayname
Kraig McConaughey
Did you replace the fuel lines? I've seen them fail inside and they collapse and plug the hose. Also make sure the tank doesn't have a bunch of gunk in it that's plugging up the outlet.
 

taylorbirkey

Active member
Joined
May 18, 2021
Messages
33
Location
Oswego, IL
displayname
Taylor
Didja check the fuse? You never mention in any of your post if you checked the 2 fuel shutoffs on the tank, didja clean them? They do clog up.
Did you replace the fuel lines? I've seen them fail inside and they collapse and plug the hose. Also make sure the tank doesn't have a bunch of gunk in it that's plugging up the outlet.
I haven't checked the tank shutoffs, or the rest of the fuel lines. I guess that's what's next!
 

jkoenig

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 14, 2002
Messages
291
displayname
Jim Koenig Halfway between Harvester, MO and Cadet, MO
Come to think of it, I had a Deere vertical shaft Kohler that acted like that. Crap in the tank would clog up the fuel outlet after running a while. Stop the engine, and the loss of suction would let the crap float about elsewhere in the tank. Blew out the line, and then cleaned the tank, problem solved.
 

mgonitzke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
3,974
Location
Wichita, KS
displayname
Matt Gonitzke
The install instructions for the pump require it to be mounted no higher than 12" from the tank outlet. You are probably borderline exceeding that. I'd make sure tank is clean, fuel lines are, good, etc. first before moving it though.
 

lpalma

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 19, 2008
Messages
943
Location
new jersey
displayname
Lewis Palma
Shudda done that first before buying new parts, sorta like your blowing up a balloon from the other end...
 

Latest posts

Top