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Archive through May 31, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Brian L.
That's easy.
Hook it up, add some weight and pull!
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Good find Matt. Nice job Dave.
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. Kent, ya' just can't beat these old tractors. Persevere and you will have a lifetime keeper that you will and can be proud of. And if need be will not only cut your yard but pull the stump our of your neighbors yard...till gardens,,, plow and the list goes on. I'm sure I'm singing to the choior. Anyhoo..... after tearing into the 44A deck I found copious amounts of rust pitting on the shell and the "plate" in between the guts of the deck. I even have a couple of "windows" ..... and I'm definitely not done with rust removal..so......... here are some pics. of my deck. I'd like some advice on how to and what to fill in the pits with and any other info that will help me to refurb. this deck. Mr. Plow, I don't weld but have made arrangements to have the brace installed by a welding shop. I meticously laid out and drilled the stock........ I hope they weld it up as planned...

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Richard:
Are those pieces as close to lace as they look in the pictures? Remember that they are the platform that takes all the torque that is applied to the drive system - If they really are severely pitted, I'd be tempted to find a welder with a good disposition to add some metal, or you might have a problem keeping the spindles in alignment due to the deck flexing.
<font size="-2">Of course, you could spread JB Weld on it.. (Geez ....I miss KentucK)
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Can someone point me in the right direction to find out what attachments worked with a rear PTO on a 100? Thanks in advance.
 
Greg, there pretty useless unless you make something to use it for, some flat belt equipment will work if you have a flat belt drive for it

Kendall, hehehe.....someone might as well take his place for the time bein, mights well be you
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Thanks Charlie. I have the manual, guess I didn't stare at it long enough.
 
I took some time this weekend to paint some wheels for a project tractor this weekend. Quite a while ago, I found some new wheels with a little more offset to compliment the Super Steer front axle of my project tractor with the added benefit of having the cleaner look of the valve stem to the inside.

Before looking around on the net, I asked the stupid question at my dealer of "what's the correct metallic paint color of Farmall rear rims". Turns out (and I think Denny told me this before) they were originally galvanized.

Anyways, those of you who remember what I'm building, here's the rear rims.
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Thanks Charlie. I've been using a cinder block but it doesn't seem to dig in that much. Maybe I should switch to railroad iron.
 
Richard T.-

When I redid the 50C for my 782D, I painted that area and the entire underside with this brush-on rustoleum product that goes directly on to rusty metal. It actually held up pretty well, and you don't have to worry about getting down to bare metal everywhere. In fact, it sticks to rust better than bare metal. I can go find the can tomorrow if you want a picture...
 
Brendan "B",
All flatbelt implements will work. If the rotation is wrong put the tractror on the other side of the implement or just put a twist on the belt.
 
Kent W. - I only looked at this page & I can't see where anyone has asked if you checked the vent hole in your fuel tank cap.
 
Tom...thanks, thats good to know. Wasn't sure about power requirements of some. Seen a couple saws locally but haven't put much thought into them yet. When I get my sickle bar done I'm movin on to a pto winch for draggin logs to the woods roads.
 
Richard: Paint won't make it stronger... my OT Sc.g ZTR has a built up 1/2" plate deck for the spindles..for safety's sake, make sure the metal's still strong 'nuff to provide a stable platform. I wonder if the corrosion is from a lifetime of washing after every use......
Kent W:
Check the bottom of the Cushmans? thread in the sandbox....
Brendan: We haven't heard the last from the Grump, but he's taking time to TC(o)B right now ...
 
Richard; I rebuilt my 44A deck last year for the 169 and it was pretty rusty and some pitting. Took it back apart for a good cleanup this spring and it had survived some pretty rough mowing without cracking or breaking. I did use por15 for preserving the metal and it works very good. Also bottom of deck don't get grass and dirt buildup as bad with the coating.
 
Graeme,

No, checking the vent hole in the fuel tank cap has not been mentioned. Didn't know that could be such an issue - I will confirm that it's not plugged.

Thanks,
Kent
 
WYATT - Good to see You working on the Wheatland again.
The "OLD TIMERS" say IH used galvanized frt & rear rims but nobody has ever been able to confirm it to Me. My old sources (I've found a few thanks to Al Gore & His Internet) from when I bought tires, wheels, & rims @ FARMALL have confirmed that they were ALL painted from sometime in the 50's or 60's to present.

Sorry Guys.....no pic's of My 982 & new dump cart from this weekend......Too busy using it yesterday to have it stand still for a pic.
 
Denny-
Good to know. The guys at my dealer said the "correct" color was the IH Aluminum. The other two choices was a silver (which I believe had a Case # on it) and the IHC silver/argent color.
 
In keeping with IH tradition, I put a 12 year old boy on a 123 and let him "test drive" it pulling a roller around what used to be our pasture. Pretty much a WOT rolling job that may not have done much good, but he sure had fun!!

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WYATT - IH must have patterned their Paint decisions after FORD's old engine programs, 3-4 engines ALL with the same displacement and ZERO part commonality. There's about three versions of every color IH used now. For older rims, 86-series and older back to the first M's & H's the IH aluminum is correct. For 88-series and newer the Silver/Argent is correct. Plus there's at least 2-3 reds, and We all know about the three IH whites. After the Case/IH merger I think they kept the 88-series colors but I'm not positive about that.
I thought the Guys @ French & Hecht in Davenport, at their large ag. rim rolling plant said that most ag OEM's except that place out in Waterloo used about the same color of silver or aluminum. Case, White Farm, Allis & IH all used silver/aluminum, Ford used white, JD used yellow. Steiger made all their own rims & wheels
 
Wyatt, good to see progress, the rims look great!

Here's some progress of my own on the "K4K" Original refurb. and on the 125 refurb. in preparation for the Killer Kohler.

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First up is the seat bracket for the Original.

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Here's a before photo of the S/G for the Killer Kohler. Best photo I have as I forgot to take a before photo.
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I found this in the background of another photo.

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Here's an after photo.
 

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