Hello! Thought I would introduce myself. My usual handle is Bubba and I live in Western PA. I started with a model 70 for $300 20 years ago but it actually had a 10hp motor put on it with the 70 painted over on the hood. I restored it last winter(minus new paint)with a fresh 12hp. Have an extra 100 for parts. Last week I bought a 1650 with a snow blower for $300 and it runs just fine. Glad to be here.
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Archive through July 19, 2014
- Thread starter jpatchett
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Dennis Frisk,
I tend to agree with your diagnosis that the carb is the culprit. Nothing out of the ordinary happened lately. On my 1650 tractor, the carb mounting bolts got loose lately, but this one appears to be tight. Bringing it in for an oil change, timing check, and carb adjustment to see if the issue can be resolved.
I tend to agree with your diagnosis that the carb is the culprit. Nothing out of the ordinary happened lately. On my 1650 tractor, the carb mounting bolts got loose lately, but this one appears to be tight. Bringing it in for an oil change, timing check, and carb adjustment to see if the issue can be resolved.
sblunier
Well-known member
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- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
John L.
Charlie is right, belt issues are almost always mule drive related.
Leveling your deck fore and aft usually HELPS FIX belt issues, as it better aligns the center pulley with the mule drive.
Look for sticks jammed into the "v" of the pulleys, misaligned mule drive idlers, too loose of mule drive idlers (tighten them up some more), slipping PTO clutch over heating belt, severe rust on pulleys, oil/grease on belt, etc.
Be VERY CRITICAL of alignment, and don;t be afraid to "tweak" the mule drive some with a 12" adjustable wrench to make alignment adjustments to the idler bracket.
Also, try removing the spring on the return side idler and replacing with eye bolt......sometimes the springs get weak and cause "flop" in the belt, especially on start-up.
Have someone else engage the deck at various RPMs and watch how the belt behaves from several angles....you'll get it sorted out!!!!
Charlie is right, belt issues are almost always mule drive related.
Leveling your deck fore and aft usually HELPS FIX belt issues, as it better aligns the center pulley with the mule drive.
Look for sticks jammed into the "v" of the pulleys, misaligned mule drive idlers, too loose of mule drive idlers (tighten them up some more), slipping PTO clutch over heating belt, severe rust on pulleys, oil/grease on belt, etc.
Be VERY CRITICAL of alignment, and don;t be afraid to "tweak" the mule drive some with a 12" adjustable wrench to make alignment adjustments to the idler bracket.
Also, try removing the spring on the return side idler and replacing with eye bolt......sometimes the springs get weak and cause "flop" in the belt, especially on start-up.
Have someone else engage the deck at various RPMs and watch how the belt behaves from several angles....you'll get it sorted out!!!!
I've been lurking on this site along with other sites for about a year,after getting a 109 and 149 to play with,and have learned a great deal.I would like to offer another site that I think will help a lot of people looking for info on carburetor and engines Try going to gardentractorpullingtips.com That site is great.
DALE - While there is some worth-while info on that site, as a general rule, I try to avoid that site and anything to do with that individual.
I had the misfortune of doing some business with him 7-8 yrs ago, spent about $250-$300 for parts... and was really disappointed in the workmanship. Then the person spent a couple years in a secure state funded institution. I don't support crooks or perverts.
I had the misfortune of doing some business with him 7-8 yrs ago, spent about $250-$300 for parts... and was really disappointed in the workmanship. Then the person spent a couple years in a secure state funded institution. I don't support crooks or perverts.
Tell us how ya really feel Denny!
