sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Jarrod,
Don't mess with the big pulley on the crankshaft, if it's in line with the pulley on the starter generator and the belt runs straight, it's fine....leave it alone.
The C shaped ring in the front of your PTO bearing is the stop ring, leave it in there, slide the bearing on the end of the crank until it seats firmly against the stop and then tighten down the eccentric lock collar and set screw.
These items are not your problem.
You will need the correct PTO rebuild kit for your tractor and possibly a new steel button as Ken suggested. The 3 little triangle shaped throw out arms should all look the same and not be torn up or damaged.
Follow the rebuild instructions as noted in the tractor's manual and the rebuild kit (especially the part about how to align the drive ears before tightening down the T/O arms and how to tighten the T/O arms with the gauge supplied in the kit.
When it's rebuilt pay careful attention to how the anti-rattle springs are installed as you slid the unit back over the bearing and into the drive cup (this is where that earlier step about the alignment of the ears is important).
Adjust the air-gap on the T/O lever as specified and burnish the clutch disk by engaging the mower at medium to high RPM a few times then enjoy another 20 years of good PTO clutch.
Good luck, it's not as hard as it looks once you get into it.
BTW, buy an L-cheap-O 7/16" wrench and grind about 1/2 of the thickness off of the open end (or use a tappet wrench). This will allow you to loosen/tighten those thin jam nuts against eachother much easier. If they are really stuck on disassembly hit them with some penetrating oil...you'll be rebuilding the clutch anyway, so you don't care if you get oil on the clutch disk....it's not long for this world!!!
Don't mess with the big pulley on the crankshaft, if it's in line with the pulley on the starter generator and the belt runs straight, it's fine....leave it alone.
The C shaped ring in the front of your PTO bearing is the stop ring, leave it in there, slide the bearing on the end of the crank until it seats firmly against the stop and then tighten down the eccentric lock collar and set screw.
These items are not your problem.
You will need the correct PTO rebuild kit for your tractor and possibly a new steel button as Ken suggested. The 3 little triangle shaped throw out arms should all look the same and not be torn up or damaged.
Follow the rebuild instructions as noted in the tractor's manual and the rebuild kit (especially the part about how to align the drive ears before tightening down the T/O arms and how to tighten the T/O arms with the gauge supplied in the kit.
When it's rebuilt pay careful attention to how the anti-rattle springs are installed as you slid the unit back over the bearing and into the drive cup (this is where that earlier step about the alignment of the ears is important).
Adjust the air-gap on the T/O lever as specified and burnish the clutch disk by engaging the mower at medium to high RPM a few times then enjoy another 20 years of good PTO clutch.
Good luck, it's not as hard as it looks once you get into it.
BTW, buy an L-cheap-O 7/16" wrench and grind about 1/2 of the thickness off of the open end (or use a tappet wrench). This will allow you to loosen/tighten those thin jam nuts against eachother much easier. If they are really stuck on disassembly hit them with some penetrating oil...you'll be rebuilding the clutch anyway, so you don't care if you get oil on the clutch disk....it's not long for this world!!!
