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128 clutch removal

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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gary noblit

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jul 22, 2020
Messages
1,594
Location
jonesville,mi.
I'm posting this for those who have never had the pleasure of removing clutch and throwout brg...Having never done this before I assumed an education so I read a manual many times,looked at several breakdown pics...A pic of right side showing clutch,a pic of rear shaft showing coupling and all pieces parts on floor plus special made punch...We all have short punches but you're not going drive out front spirol pin unless you have much longer punch.There is no room for hands or hammer.Look at both ends of pin for damage. I had my punch turned down to .200,the pins are .250....I started on longest side sticking out because I was sure it would mushroom and it did.Once the pin started to move I turned shaft over to other side and was able to drive out pin with another made up punch. Removing tunnel cover is neccessary to get to rear drive shaft pins (plural) ...My book said one must unbolt engine and slide it fwd to get shaft out...not true!!.. the coupler has about 1/2" slack in shaft.Sliding the collar/coupling fwd allowed some flexibility. Going fwd I removed long pin holding actuator plate then unbolted both side mounts of holder brace...That allowed enough slack to manipulate the whole unit out the side(after disconnecting lower clutch rod).I also had to disconnect fwd belt clutch rod to have enough room. Once out and looking it over ,the throwout brg was the screeching sound but the clutch holes were wallowed bad.Easily 3/8" off center..The activator plate is badly worn as well.This plate received 2 beads of weld around center hole,carefully dressed with a grinder ,it should work fine. These parts are quite expensive so do your homework per ex. the brg ranges from $72 to $99...Backing up some, my manual is for a 122 and it did say move engine but I have a 108 that has the rear coupler also so another learning curve ....for what it's worth I used a 3# hand sledge to drive pins,yep my wrist will know it tomorrow...
 

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A follow up on clutch installation: As mentioned several parts needed replacement,clutch,throwout brg,teaser spring and drive plates were tuned by taking off .010 off each one .After reassembly the hard part is compressing main spring to get pin back in.This was done in a lathe with parts together for alignment.a piece of pipe with a notch cut in was pushed by tailstock.Clearing the pin hole a 1/4 bolt was put in to hold the spring and washer in place.Then to vice to drive pin thru and bolt out.worked great..There are several ideas on utube but some didn't seem quite up to the job.This tension is serious and could be harmful....Bolting the engine drive plate back on on the rest was basic put it back where it came from.I will admit to a learning curve ..So the pics are the 128 back together, working and lots of small stuff repaired as well..You may not appreciate my paint scheme but I do get tired of yellow...(having tunnel cover being made)
 

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Gary,nice post.I'm just throwing this out there.I got the front pin loosened up a bit by using a 'C' clamp that had that swivel surface pad removed.The part on the screw thats left has a nub that fits in the pin.I used a socket for clearance on the other end.My question for the others here is?Anybody fabricated something up ,that would do this?
 
Gary,nice post.I'm just throwing this out there.I got the front pin loosened up a bit by using a 'C' clamp that had that swivel surface pad removed.The part on the screw thats left has a nub that fits in the pin.I used a socket for clearance on the other end.My question for the others here is?Anybody fabricated something up ,that would do this?
Dean, thanks for the compliment.Your idea is what these posts are about..sharing thoughts that educate..I would not thought you could get enough torque with a c clamp.I used a 3# sledge and punch .Good thinking outside the box tho!!You got me thinking ,a tool could be made to push a pin by using an impact driver...hmmm
 

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