105 Replacing drive shaft and related parts

[RobDunbar1966]

OK, all-wise and powerful members of this here forum. I was told it always helps to pre-lubricate before you start turning the nuts. LOL Here is my problem, I removed the brake pin and cotter pin, but now I have the linkage for the speed control. See the picture. I thought removing the nut from the side closest to the frame would be easy, and slide it out. I first tried gently prying the coupler off the ball connector but didn’t know if that was supposed to come off, I figured the nut would be safer. LOL, however, it would bypass the trans tubes. Is the coupler supposed to pry off the ball? Also, when I got the drive shaft it came with a new pin, and these yellow caps...what are the yellow caps for?

 

[digger]

OK, all-wise and powerful members of this here forum. I was told it always helps to pre-lubricate before you start turning the nuts. LOL Here is my problem, I removed the brake pin and cotter pin, but now I have the linkage for the speed control. See the picture. I thought removing the nut from the side closest to the frame would be easy, and slide it out. I first tried gently prying the coupler off the ball connector but didn’t know if that was supposed to come off, I figured the nut would be safer. LOL, however, it would bypass the trans tubes. Is the coupler supposed to pry off the ball? Also, when I got the drive shaft it came with a new pin, and these yellow caps...what are the yellow caps for?
View attachment 154680 View attachment 154681

Man you ordered that stuff over a year ago, LOL

 

[kmcconaughey]

If you are replacing the driveshaft I would recommend splitting the tractor, it will be a lot easier and you can inspect the drive line and linkages. Here's a link to the service manual:

1x4/5 Service Manual

 

[dschwandt]

No, the ball joint on the linkage does not come apart,
You must remove the nut and on one end or both ends and remove the rod w/ends that way.
If you remove one end or the other from the rod for replacement or whatever, measure the OAL center of stud to center of stud first to maintain original adjustment.
One end is left hand thread and the other is right hand thread.

 

[RobDunbar1966]

I thought it was supposed to stay together. Is it easier to remove the front end of the rod?

 

[RobDunbar1966]

Man you ordered that stuff over a year ago, LOL
View attachment 154682

Ya, turns out I like beer and recycling aluminum. LOL

 

[RobDunbar1966]

OK, one more question. I split the tractor and installed a new coupler on the back of the motor, a new drive shaft and pin, and a new flex disc at the rear. I rolled the rear wheels forward and feed the drive shaft through so it fit into the new coupler. My problem now is the holes in the frame (IMG_1157) are not lining up with the threaded holes in the rear-end assembly. It looks like the rear end needs to go forward another 1/4" to 3/8". Previously when I split the tractor (it had the old drive shaft, coupler, and flex disc) it fit perfectly. Now, with the new parts, the pin in the drive shaft is all the way forward, it is tightly seated in the coupler (IMG_1156). Are the new parts somehow lengthening the drive train by this small amount? For reference, IMG_151389 is the old coupler with a roll pin instead of the correct solid pin.

 

[lpalma]

How many flex disc dija use? You can loosen the bolts on the motor mounts and it will give you some wiggle room.

 

[Jake Olsen]

I would also check and make sure the rear coupler spirol pin is through the drive shaft. Could be not in the hole and between the shaft’s. Btdt.

 

[dschwandt]

Or....The new flex disc may be a bit thicker than the old one.
It should flex enough to allow the bolts to line up though.
Was the old one deformed quite a bit?

 

[RobDunbar1966]

How many flex disc dija use? You can loosen the bolts on the motor mounts and it will give you some wiggle room.

Just one.

 

[RobDunbar1966]

I would also check and make sure the rear coupler spirol pin is through the drive shaft. Could be not in the hole and between the shaft’s. Btdt.

I was afraid someone was going to tell me something that would require sliding it back out. LOL I'll take a closer look, thank you!

 

[RobDunbar1966]

Or....The new flex disc may be a bit thicker than the old one.
It should flex enough to allow the bolts to line up though.
Was the old one deformed quite a bit?

Before I installed the new one I compared them on the bench, oddly they were the same thickness, the old one was just tattered. I'm stuck so I'll just have to slide it back out and take a look.

 

[RobDunbar1966]

OK, question: Are the holes in the frame that the motor bolts to elongated, so the motor can move forward or backward slightly?

 

[dschwandt]

They may be a bit oversize by now what with 50 years of use but purposely elongated? I don't think so Tim.

 

[RobDunbar1966]

OK, found the problem. The tail end of the drive shaft has a 1/2" nose on it that sticks through the flex disc and needs to slide into the transmission coupler T.

I got it all buttoned back up and thought I would give the bolts on the engine coupler another check and tighten them a little more. The drive shaft started to rotate and I heard scrapping towards the back. Turns out the new nylon fan I installed on the shaft is rubbing on the shroud. Any suggestions??
I am beyond frustrated with how many times I have taken this apart and put it back together.

 

[lpalma]

remove the shroud.

 

[RobDunbar1966]

remove the shroud.

Can it be removed without splitting the tractor again?

 

[lpalma]

No.