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Archive through July 23, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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aschmidt

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Dec 21, 2007
Messages
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Aaron Schmidt - Xtreme Motorworks
Ok, we will try that again. This is what I use for transmissions. Works good as a drain, but only 1/4 NPT plug. Kinda small to get a funnel in. I dont think that the wife is going to let me use the turkey baster to fill the hydro unit!

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Here are a few pics of the clear cover with fluid in it. Will try to get a video up on you tube tomorrow of it running.

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Aaron Schmidt - Xtreme Motorworks
 
Aaron, I'd like to see that video, looks kinda cool.

just curious, what are you running for fluid?
 
Dan,
Thanks and darryl told me to rotate charge pump 180degrees so I'm gona do that and as for the hydraulics I've got a 12volt power source will be selective and hydraulic 3point 4rear hyd. Valves hyd. front blade also but hyd. power source is plumbed for 3/4 fittings so ought to be plenty big enough what do you guys think?
Ryan
 
Ryan~
In your application I don't think you need 3/4" hydraulic lines. Maybe on the suction line, but even then probably not. It isn't going to take much to run what it seems like you have in mind. All you would end up doing is paying for hose that you don't need.
 
RYAN - I read you old post, hyd. remotes are always in pairs, by Four remotes do you mean for pair or just two pair? If your just feeding the circuit with the charge pump of the hydro unit the Pioneer 4000 series quick-connects, 3/8" NPT threads are plenty. And 3/8" hose in O-K too. They're cheap, almost as cheap as the 1/2" versions which are on hundreds of thousands of ag tractors. The 3/4" versions are only used on really HUGE circuits to run things powered by high speed or high torque hyd. motors on the latest ag equip. And they come at a hefty price. Plus the smaller hose has a higher pressure rating, tighter bend radius, and it's cheaper.

If you want more info, check Northern Tools' Master catalog, and maybe their website. Gives you an idea of cost, flow & pressure.

Depending on what all you end up deciding you want to run with your hydraulics, you may want to install a separate pump & reservoir. It would give you more flow volume, pressure, wouldn't be effected by tractor movement. The added pressure gives you much more hyd. power in a smaller space, and lower cost overall.
 
Dan I am not sure about te valves yet but the hyd. power unit has a pump and resivor al I need is spool valves and hose as for hose I will split the 3/4 hose into 1/2 going to spool valves then down to 3/8 simply because I have the hose and connectors laying around the shop to do it with the power unit will be engaged by using the factory PTO lever. Also where would the best place be to put temp. gauge in the two hydro transaxles?
 
Ryan~
About the only place I can think of that would be 1/2 ways easy to put in in the hydrostat unit would be to drill and weld in a bung in the rear cover.
 
Thanks to all that are helping and answering my questions even though i may be asking slot of y'all.
Ryan
 
Stop me if you've seen this one (because if you were watching 5 years ago, you did)
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This is a sight glass from an IHC haybine wobble-box (the gearbox that turns rotational motion to linear motion to run the sickle bar). I started off with a Hydro cover, welded in a half-coupling in a spot that would be halfway lower than the gear drive fill location. Fill the fluid until it's half in the window . . . . there ya have it, with IHC parts no less.
 
Wyatt, good to see you posting again. Did you set it so it's reads "in the furrow"?
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inquireing minds...
 
Wyatt, I think we got the same part / sight eye there. At our sister company we build hydraulic tanks for multiple companies and they were sitting on my buddies desk and I thought that they would work perfectly.

Got some mowing done last few days, now time to clean up. I wasnt about to dig out a pitch fork for this mess, so i put a new attachment on one of my loader buckets. It just bolts on and off. Made short work of picking up the mess. All I have to do to it yet is bevel the bottom of the tines (not looking forward to that part). And yes thats the same loader that I broke yesterday - back to work - no rest for the wicked around here.

Anyone want a free trailer full of grass by chance?

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Aaron, nice bucket tines! Regarding the bevel on the bottom of the times, umm, why not just lower the bucket with it tilted until the tines rest on the ground and drive around backwards on a paved road?
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Might not make the county happy though.
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The oil pan is the same as all the other K-series Kohlers used in CCs...however, I doubt the starter will clear the frame, and you'll have to change the wiring. It'd be simpler to just fix your current engine.
 
Matt,
I know it would be simpler but I want to make it a custom project. Do you think the drive shaft would line up could I just cut a slot in the frame ?
 

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