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Archive through July 19, 2007
- Thread starter wheinsohn
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Dennis,
I had a little trouble a couple years ago when I tried to pull both shortly after some good rain. I finally had to park it on the driveway, put the blocks on, and keep it moving when on the grass. If I stopped, it would sink into the ground and I could not get it rolling. This year I added a front wheel weight for an M to each rear wheel of the 106. The extra 35# helped a lot. I will have to post a picture of the unit when I get home.
I had a little trouble a couple years ago when I tried to pull both shortly after some good rain. I finally had to park it on the driveway, put the blocks on, and keep it moving when on the grass. If I stopped, it would sink into the ground and I could not get it rolling. This year I added a front wheel weight for an M to each rear wheel of the 106. The extra 35# helped a lot. I will have to post a picture of the unit when I get home.
This tractor is going to be the death of me....
I have a 1650 that I have had for 5 years with hardly any issues.
The pto wouldn't engage. I checked all of the wiring. appears ok. Replaced the switch. Sometimes the pto will turn on, sometimes not. When it doesn't, I see the amp meter drawing, but no pto. Othertimes, it functions ok for about 100 yards, then the engine bogs down, if I don't turn off the pto and idle the engine down, it will stall. Almost like the pto is drawing too much power, or there isn't enough power for it. Also, my two year old battery will all of a sudden not hold a charge. I have to jump the tractor everytime to start it. I have not tried replacing the battery yet. Seems a little coincidental?
Anyone have any ideas?
So far this year, I have replaced the plug, wire, points, condensor, air filter, pto switch and have been using that marvel mystery oil.
Please help if you can. I love this tractor,but I'm losing patience. Tractor supply is calling me for a new tractor. I don't want a new tractor, but my 4 acres is difficult to do by hand.
I have a 1650 that I have had for 5 years with hardly any issues.
The pto wouldn't engage. I checked all of the wiring. appears ok. Replaced the switch. Sometimes the pto will turn on, sometimes not. When it doesn't, I see the amp meter drawing, but no pto. Othertimes, it functions ok for about 100 yards, then the engine bogs down, if I don't turn off the pto and idle the engine down, it will stall. Almost like the pto is drawing too much power, or there isn't enough power for it. Also, my two year old battery will all of a sudden not hold a charge. I have to jump the tractor everytime to start it. I have not tried replacing the battery yet. Seems a little coincidental?
Anyone have any ideas?
So far this year, I have replaced the plug, wire, points, condensor, air filter, pto switch and have been using that marvel mystery oil.
Please help if you can. I love this tractor,but I'm losing patience. Tractor supply is calling me for a new tractor. I don't want a new tractor, but my 4 acres is difficult to do by hand.
Here are some pictures of Denny's home made aerator:
jharvey
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 1, 2003
- Messages
- 361
- displayname
- Jerry Harvey "Nines are wild"
Edward T.
Probably not much of a coincidence on the battery not holding a charge. I would go with a known good, proven good battery first. Then measure the current draw of the PTO coil. Do the gap adjustments to the PTO too. Then for good measure check the charging output. Should find 14.5 VDC at the battery positive terminal at fast idle speed. JH
Probably not much of a coincidence on the battery not holding a charge. I would go with a known good, proven good battery first. Then measure the current draw of the PTO coil. Do the gap adjustments to the PTO too. Then for good measure check the charging output. Should find 14.5 VDC at the battery positive terminal at fast idle speed. JH
Matt and Myron,
The cub 169 is a solid mounted 16 HP. Are there issues with those and vibration? All my solid mount motor tractors 70,72,100,100,109,123,don't vibrate like that. It just seems funny all this talk and solutions for QL series about vibration. Then when IH came out with the 82 series tractors, they went back to solid mounted once again. I don,t hear any "your bones & teeth will survive those short bursts...." issues with those either. Just something to consider. Maybe someone should think and try it before a comment like "Why on earth would you want to do that? Those solid mounts are for pulling tractors. Your tractor will shake more with solid mounts that with the isomounts" is made. IH did'nt make all of their tractors except QL for pulling Matt. My solid mounted tractors seem to run smoother than the QL's have.}
TOM
The cub 169 is a solid mounted 16 HP. Are there issues with those and vibration? All my solid mount motor tractors 70,72,100,100,109,123,don't vibrate like that. It just seems funny all this talk and solutions for QL series about vibration. Then when IH came out with the 82 series tractors, they went back to solid mounted once again. I don,t hear any "your bones & teeth will survive those short bursts...." issues with those either. Just something to consider. Maybe someone should think and try it before a comment like "Why on earth would you want to do that? Those solid mounts are for pulling tractors. Your tractor will shake more with solid mounts that with the isomounts" is made. IH did'nt make all of their tractors except QL for pulling Matt. My solid mounted tractors seem to run smoother than the QL's have.}
TOM
Tom P., keep in mind that the majority of the 82 series are twin cylinders and run much smoother. The single cylinder, 12hp, model 1282 and the single cylinder 11hp model 482 from the 82 series DID have ISO mounted engines. The 169 was introduced late in the 1x8/9 series perhaps it had something to do with the introduction of the ISO mounted engines....... I've heard it mentioned here in the past that the 169 DOES vibrate quite a bit.
Sorry... I'm really not that great at fixing these things. The pto engages when I am jumping the battery. Unhook the jumper cables, and nothing.
I'm guessing it has been the battery all along? Will get a new one in about 5 minutes.
Sorry for being so ignorant.
Ed
I'm guessing it has been the battery all along? Will get a new one in about 5 minutes.
Sorry for being so ignorant.
Ed
Jim,
Those are some factory rims that are wider. I bought them a while back when someone had a bunch for sale. (don't remember who it was now)
I forget what they measured exactly. I've seen several posts where people have cut the rims and widened them. I'm not that good of a welder.
I don't know how well the tires would fit on the standard rims as they are a good albeit tight fit with these.
Those are some factory rims that are wider. I bought them a while back when someone had a bunch for sale. (don't remember who it was now)
I forget what they measured exactly. I've seen several posts where people have cut the rims and widened them. I'm not that good of a welder.
I don't know how well the tires would fit on the standard rims as they are a good albeit tight fit with these.
Tom P...Ya might wanna check my profile- it's called experience and knowing what you are talking about. I suggest you get a solid mounted 169 and find out for yourself... The higher horsepower a single cylinder has, the more it will "shake"....it's got a whole lot of something to do with the laws of physics....Mass in motion maybe and equal actions and opposite reactions etc. Twin cylinders cancel out each others vibration and shaking tendencies thus can be solid mounted and are smooooth....The QL single cylinder engines vibate and shake also, but the rubber footed ISO-lation Bar system lets the engine shake without shaking the tractor and the operator....It took about five years before IH figured out that the individual bars were an engineering mistake and thus cross bracing was introduced...ala the the only 12 hp single cylinder in the 82 series....the 1282.
And in case you had not noticed, there is a difference between vibration and shaking...All those early lower horsepower solid mounted Kohlers all vibrate some but not enough to be objectionable....They don't shake because they are solid munted but they aren't 16 hp's either. A little more experience and maybe you'll figure it out...
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
And in case you had not noticed, there is a difference between vibration and shaking...All those early lower horsepower solid mounted Kohlers all vibrate some but not enough to be objectionable....They don't shake because they are solid munted but they aren't 16 hp's either. A little more experience and maybe you'll figure it out...
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Also I'm pretty sure a 169 would have had balance gears from the factory, and the 1650 would not, so solid mounting a 1650's motor would really make it shake.
Those balance gears do make a slight difference; the 100's without balance gears I have had vibrated more that the 108 with balance gears I had.
Those balance gears do make a slight difference; the 100's without balance gears I have had vibrated more that the 108 with balance gears I had.
Kraig,
As a new owner of a 125. Is there any way to improve the smoothness of the brake pedal?? As it does not return to neutral very smoothly. Stiff and sometimes with a bit of a jerk as it comes up the slope to the flat part of the centering device.
Blew all the dirt dobbers out and White lubed the return to center device. Where it slides on the shaft and on the dash tower.
The 125 was sitting for about 3 years. I have checked all the major items and shot grease where needed. I have about 2 hours running time on it.
With a #1 rototiller and a Haban Sickle mower. Boy howdy I sure do like the Sickle mower. Little or no DUST... Yeah. Still a bit of tuning to do on the sickle section. But its cuts pretty well now.
Thanks
Dudley
As a new owner of a 125. Is there any way to improve the smoothness of the brake pedal?? As it does not return to neutral very smoothly. Stiff and sometimes with a bit of a jerk as it comes up the slope to the flat part of the centering device.
Blew all the dirt dobbers out and White lubed the return to center device. Where it slides on the shaft and on the dash tower.
The 125 was sitting for about 3 years. I have checked all the major items and shot grease where needed. I have about 2 hours running time on it.
With a #1 rototiller and a Haban Sickle mower. Boy howdy I sure do like the Sickle mower. Little or no DUST... Yeah. Still a bit of tuning to do on the sickle section. But its cuts pretty well now.
Thanks
Dudley
I have seen both 149's and 169's that never came with balance gears, STOCK, soooo, maybe they did lead to the ISO mount system in the awsome QL series. mine had them, but won't anymore, because of the grenade effect that the experts say it can have...JMHO
hi i have a 122 cubcadet. and i recently installed my 44" mowing deck and well when ever i try to lift the deck all the way up the large pulley on the deck rubs/ will bottom out on the undercarrige and it still has about 3 notchs left to go on the raising lever. Is there any way to fix this? OR has any one had this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Justin
Justin
Justin
Do you have the correct undercarriage for the deck? and what tractor was the deck used on previously?
The only problem I could forsee is useing a wideframe undercarriage on a norrow frame, I think they are a little different in design.
Do you have the correct undercarriage for the deck? and what tractor was the deck used on previously?
The only problem I could forsee is useing a wideframe undercarriage on a norrow frame, I think they are a little different in design.
Hello. I rebuilt my pto clutch on my 125--new fiber disc, new wear button, new thrust button....used the gauge that came with the kit, made sure the pressure plate/ears were spaced correctly, everything looked good--until I started it up.
The deck will not disengage. I even re-adjusted the linkage to make the wear button press real hard against the thrust button, and it still wouldn't disengage. Any ideas what would cause this? Guess I'm not too excited to take it off again just to set that gauge back on and see it's adjusted correctly.
The deck will not disengage. I even re-adjusted the linkage to make the wear button press real hard against the thrust button, and it still wouldn't disengage. Any ideas what would cause this? Guess I'm not too excited to take it off again just to set that gauge back on and see it's adjusted correctly.
Glenn M:
Want to see a picture of the side of my 169's block....the balance gears went on a world wide exploration jaunt and never returned. Never found them in the yard either.
169 kept on runing after they departed. Had to shut it off!
Believe what Myron B says about the vibration...in a 1650 without correct ISO mounts...Do weld the cross brace as detailed in the FAQ section...
Want to see a picture of the side of my 169's block....the balance gears went on a world wide exploration jaunt and never returned. Never found them in the yard either.
169 kept on runing after they departed. Had to shut it off!
Believe what Myron B says about the vibration...in a 1650 without correct ISO mounts...Do weld the cross brace as detailed in the FAQ section...
Well I pulled off the pto clutch again. According to the gauge that came with the kit it is adjusted correctly. Can't help but think the pto clutch rebuild kit isn't what I needed.
The original problem was the pto clutch slipping, the new problem is the clutch not disengaging.
I might just have to go buy a lawn mower...keep your eyes open for a 105 for sale in southern Wisconsin.
The original problem was the pto clutch slipping, the new problem is the clutch not disengaging.
