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Archive through June 06, 2014
- Thread starter wheinsohn
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
nbextermueller
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- Nic Bextermueller
Wes, just save up and get Gator Blades. They are worth every penny and then at least you feel like the price is justified.
jchamberlin
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- Jul 19, 2010
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- Farmville, North Carolina
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Devin: Is that at 1250? I agree with Jeff, I paid three times that much for a parts tractor!
Jeff: I think the Service Manual says the friction disks are still good even if 3 or 4 "teeth" are missing. Dennis would till you that you haven't yet got your money out of it.
(However, like you, I would probably have replaced it with the CC Specialties thicker, HD version.)
Jeff: I think the Service Manual says the friction disks are still good even if 3 or 4 "teeth" are missing. Dennis would till you that you haven't yet got your money out of it.
(However, like you, I would probably have replaced it with the CC Specialties thicker, HD version.)
dlancaster
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- Mar 6, 2014
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- Devin Lancaster
yes it is 1250 but I also got a 1650 parts tractor with it for $50 for both
On this mowing tall grass I think deck design has a lot to do with getting a nice cut. I used my 169 with 44A for a few years and it done a good job mowing anywhere I tried it. However I think there just isn't enough lift on the older decks. I moved the deck to my 149 and there is where I can see the difference in tractors. The 149 works good but less power, handles different, spins easier on the grass. Jeremiah have you got the 122 running yet? My governor cross shaft tab was loose and hung on the governor gear and most of the teeth stripped of the governor. The cam is not damaged. I had spare parts so I am ready to put the engine back together now. Has anyone heard of or had a SAINT BIRD Rod in a engine?
KEITH - I was mowing the Back 40 with the 982.... It was using LOADS of gas! Think I used a gallon on just that small area, and normally I mow my whole 2+ acres on 4 to 4-1/2 gal.
JEREMIAH - You are correct, manual does say 3-4 missing teeth are no problem. Back in the early MTD days, they tried to value engineer lots of the old IH parts. One item was the friction disk for the frt PTO. The new disk was harder, and brittle, and would crack, break, and the pieces wedge in the clutch so it couldn't be disengaged. I had one fail in 2 months of snow blowing with the K181 engine in the 72, so you know it wasn't seeing ANY HP. They quickly went back to a more flexible material. The one good thing MTD did IMO is put the steel backing plate on the transmission clutch for the GD tractors. They run MUCH longer without wallowing the driver holes out.
Nothing wrong with trying to get the most value for my repair parts Dollar is there? I really hate when my parts man tells me "MTD/CC changed this..." which normally means it costs more and wears out sooner. The belts I used to pay $7-$8 for now cost $30+. Be nice if my paycheck was 4-times bigger but it's not!
JEREMIAH - You are correct, manual does say 3-4 missing teeth are no problem. Back in the early MTD days, they tried to value engineer lots of the old IH parts. One item was the friction disk for the frt PTO. The new disk was harder, and brittle, and would crack, break, and the pieces wedge in the clutch so it couldn't be disengaged. I had one fail in 2 months of snow blowing with the K181 engine in the 72, so you know it wasn't seeing ANY HP. They quickly went back to a more flexible material. The one good thing MTD did IMO is put the steel backing plate on the transmission clutch for the GD tractors. They run MUCH longer without wallowing the driver holes out.
Nothing wrong with trying to get the most value for my repair parts Dollar is there? I really hate when my parts man tells me "MTD/CC changed this..." which normally means it costs more and wears out sooner. The belts I used to pay $7-$8 for now cost $30+. Be nice if my paycheck was 4-times bigger but it's not!
Luther, I just tore down the 12 HP in my newly aquired 126 and it has one of those rods in it.
It's already .020 over and the piston is real sloppy in the bore so I don't know what to expect from the machine shop when they mic everything. Just keep my fingers crossed I guess.
It's already .020 over and the piston is real sloppy in the bore so I don't know what to expect from the machine shop when they mic everything. Just keep my fingers crossed I guess.
Unsure of year, 1250 that back fires violently when letting off of the key, (voltage drops to zero when cranking) then 12+volts as releasing the key from crank mode, will start at times..Is my Uncle's, he lives 175 miles or so away and is 81. He has a running 1250.So I am going there again and simply start exchanging parts, BUT sure would like an idea on what first 
I thank you for any advice
I thank you for any advice
Ken, My 1st thoughts would be a bad ignition switch. My 1000 does the same thing but I have gotten used to it and don't crank it but for a second or two to avoid air/fuel mixture build up that will backfire.
Do you mean it will sometimes start as soon as you let off the key from the start position?
This could be as simple as dirty and corroded connections on the back of the switch in which case removal and a good cleaning of both the terminals on the switch and the wires is called for.
Youwill have to remove the dash shield from under the hood to access the switch which can be unfastened from the outside of the dash and pushed through to the inside and if there is enough wire you should be able to release the loom from the little holder under the dash and pull the switch and wires out far enough to disconnect the switch. But before you do that, try wiggling the switch and terminals while cranking to see if that helps.
Do you mean it will sometimes start as soon as you let off the key from the start position?
This could be as simple as dirty and corroded connections on the back of the switch in which case removal and a good cleaning of both the terminals on the switch and the wires is called for.
Youwill have to remove the dash shield from under the hood to access the switch which can be unfastened from the outside of the dash and pushed through to the inside and if there is enough wire you should be able to release the loom from the little holder under the dash and pull the switch and wires out far enough to disconnect the switch. But before you do that, try wiggling the switch and terminals while cranking to see if that helps.
